My e-revo brushless edition build

[suicideneil]

Damn, that chassis isnt all that great for what you pay- what the heck quality alloy does he use, 4xxx series?

[Chadworkz]

By the looks of the overall finish as well as the cross-section when you cut through it, it looks like he uses 5083 aluminum alloy, which isn't even in the T6 class of alloys. 5083 is not recommended for any type of structural use, and is commonly used as a fascia material to cover up other structural materials, especially since 5083 polishes fairly well, after some pretty aggressive sanding and multiple polishing compounds.

Also 5083 is FAR cheaper to buy than 6061-T6, and FAR easier to machine/mill than 6061-T6, since it is so soft and doesn't wear out end-mills and other milling bits & tools as quickly. As soon as I can find a chemist willing to do the required alchemy tests (maybe the local college tech department, etc.), I will confirm for sure what alloy Dan uses.

Bottom line, if you do anything more than just run the truck up and down the street, Dan's chassis juat isn't for you...you need to use one of the many other chassis currently available. If you can find one, the Gorillamaxx Revo chassis (either carbon-fiber or aluminum) is your best bet, followed extremely closely buy the Vantage Racing carbon-fiber chassis, or just scratch build a full chassis yourself, since you are so good at scratch building things. Check out this scratch-built chassis a guy made (it's for the 1/16 E-Revo, but you get the idea)...

[Urgeoner]

lmao at the new v2 chassis

[mistercrash]

The Kershaw chassis is gone, sold on ebay so now I have a set of 4S lipo and a set of 3S lifepo4 that don't fit. The lifepo4 packs are now used for a hand held Vac. The two 4S 5800 mah Turnigys I got recently have been transformed in a pair of 3S 5800 mah lipos. I will make a 5800 2S pack with the remaining two cells and sell it locally.

It would have been nice to separate all the cells and test them individually to match the best ones together but I didn't feel like doing that. Just taking out one cell and resoldering two wires was enough.

Here's a CBA II test result for those Turnigy 5800 3S lipos.




Turnigy 3S 5800 1:
Discharge rate: 8 Amps
Starting voltage: 12.50 V
Ending voltage: 9 V
Total time: 42 min. 47 sec.
Tested capacity: 5701 mah
Recharged @ 5858 mah with 1.4, 1.7, 1.5 milliohm IR

Turnigy 3S 5800 2:
Discharge rate: 8 Amps
Starting voltage: 12.50 V
Ending voltage: 9 V
Total time: 44 min. 24 sec.
Tested capacity: 5914 mah
Recharged @ 5942 mah with 1.4, 1.6, 1.4 milliohm IR

[shaunjohnson]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

The two 4S 5800 mah Turnigys I got recently have been transformed in a pair of 3S 5800 mah lipos. I will make a 5800 2S pack with the remaining two cells and sell it locally.

It would have been nice to separate all the cells and test them individually to match the best ones together but I didn't feel like doing that. Just taking out one cell and resoldering two wires was enough.

i did this yesterday, turned a 8000mah 3s2p 10c pack into an 8000mah 2s2p 10 and a 4000mah 2s1p 10c.

only to be run in my smaller rc's
the $20 buggy likes lipo, the stock tires are now mambafied

in other news....
I PRETZLED A SUMMIT SHAFT!!
and ive also fried my MMM almost 2 weeks ago. but this time castle had it replaced within 1.5 weeks and it's already on it's way back

Hi, I've been scrolling thru your notes here. Im new on this forum or to any I should say. I have to tell ya! You opened my eyes to a whole new way of looking at my revo! Ive been bac into RC for about a year and searching this dam computer for fix's, how to this, how much that, I dont have a big support network built up, but Its looks to me like, You just have to try it, break it, build it, tweak it. Like your style! The Ofna hub thing is slick. Anyway I bought aluminum outer dif cases for a revo and Im about to put em together,Im having a hard time deciding oil wt for the F +R. I want to have a crossover revo if u kno what I mean. hardcore offroad/street? is it possible?

Hi, I've been scrolling thru your notes here. Im new on this forum or to any I should say. I have to tell ya! You opened my eyes to a whole new way of looking at my revo! Ive been bac into RC for about a year and searching this dam computer for fix's, how to this, how much that, I dont have a big support network built up, but Its looks to me like, You just have to try it, break it, build it, tweak it. Like your style! The Ofna hub thing is slick. Anyway I bought aluminum outer dif cases for a revo and Im about to put em together,Im having a hard time deciding oil wt for the F +R. I want to have a crossover revo if u kno what I mean. hardcore offroad/street? is it possible?

Hi, I've been scrolling thru your notes here. Im new on this forum or to any I should say. I have to tell ya! You opened my eyes to a whole new way of looking at my revo! Ive been bac into RC for about a year and searching this dam computer for fix's, how to this, how much that, I dont have a big support network built up, but Its looks to me like, You just have to try it, break it, build it, tweak it. Like your style! The Ofna hub thing is slick. Anyway I bought aluminum outer dif cases for a revo and Im about to put em together,Im having a hard time deciding oil wt for the F +R. I want to have a crossover revo if u kno what I mean. hardcore offroad/street? is it possible?

[Chadworkz]

50,000wt (50k) oil in the front diff and 10,000wt (10k) oil in the rear diff.

Note: Not 50wt or 10wt, but fifty thousand wt and ten thousand wt.

sorry about the multiple listing. I dont kno how it even happened.
thanks for the info

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by Blown Up

sorry about the multiple listing. I dont kno how it even happened.
thanks for the info

Whenever you hit the Submit button, and it doesn't look like it is working, you tend to hit the Submit button a few more times, and for every time you hit the Submit button, a reply is posted.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I want to see how long the stock diffs are going to last. I know the LST diffs last a long long time and don't seem to break a sweat even on 6S. After close to a full year of racing and bashing, my LST diffs only needed new lube recently, the gears and bearings were all in top shape. I want to find out for myself if the stock diffs can last and take abuse like the LST diffs did. I know a lot of people run the stock diffs without problems but I have to test them for myself with my kind of driving.

MC....How are the stock diffs still treating you?

[mistercrash]

I haven't had the chance to fix my ERBE since I hit a rock at full speed on 6S three weeks ago
We moved to a bigger house on March 16th and I have been too busy with unpacking. I also have been shopping for stuff to finish the garage the way I want. I just started working on the ERBE yesterday and I am rebuilding it with the stock diffs. My son's GERBE is still running strong with the stock diffs but he only runs on 4S lifepo4.
I seriously think that whatever diffs or gears or shafts are used, everything will perform great with a good slipper that is adjusted the right way. It has to slip quite a bit to protect that drive train if someone wants to abuse their ERBE and have some real fun. If you're doing standing back flips, that slipper is too tight. In order for the ERBE slipper to slip enough, it needs those aluminum pads, the stock ones are not up to snuff to enough slipping action that will protect the drive train. I'm just saying all this from my own experience from my style of driving which is hard. Not crazy hard with the intent to break the truck, just hard bashing (no more racing) with repeated high jumps, fast speeds in grass, asphalt, gravel, dirt...

It's all in the slipper, with a good slipper adjusted right, even Integy parts could be used in the drive train

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I seriously think that whatever diffs or gears or shafts are used, everything will perform great with a good slipper that is adjusted the right way.

I agree 100%!

Originally Posted by mistercrash

It's all in the slipper, with a good slipper adjusted right, even Integy parts could be used in the drive train

This is even true, heh!

[mistercrash]

OOPS!



And what is the solution for a hot motor and ESC with cool batteries? I am geared with 65 spur, 17 pinion with stock diffs. Am I under geared? Should I go to a 19 or 20 tooth pinion?. When I brought the truck in, the fan was on. The temps read 148 ESC, 151 motor and 90 batteries.