build a gmaxx and i need help

[JoFreak]

But then he would have to use the older, weaker and with the g-maxx single speed conversion more expensive gearbox of the old 3906 e-maxx.
And he would need adapters to use the old tranny in the FLM chassis because the chassis is designed for the new tranny.
To get a complete new tranny from the new 3905 e-maxx definately is the better choice.

[suicideneil]

Indeed, we're confusing him with the different slipper options- he's using the new emaxx tranny & aftermarket chassis, so the stock tranny and slipper for the new emaxx is what he needs.

[Maxxrickard]

thanks

[Maxxrickard]

hmm... gorillamaxx got the G4 in stock. witch should i buy??? FLM or GM G4?
i will never put this car on a track.

[JoFreak]

Oh dear...
Not that again

I thought you decided to get the FLM allready?
And if you only want to bash the FLM should have more advantages, like:
higher ground clearence, cheaper to buy and therefore cheaper to replace if you kill it while bashing

[Maxxrickard]

i dont now. from the beginning was it a G4 i would like to buy..

[JoFreak]

Then get it!
I'm thinking about getting a G4 myself, wouldn't know what do do with it right now, but 130€ just seems like such a bargain

[Maxxrickard]

maybe...will all the other FLM parts fit the G4? hybrid bulkhed?skidplats?

[JoFreak]

Yes they will, was no problem with the g3 chassis and the flm-hybrids, won't be a problem with the new stuff as well.
I'm pretty shure because the G4 chassis directly fits to the stock traxxas bulks and the FLM bulks directly fit the stock chassis.

Hm, no more skidplates included in the new gorilla chassis...
That's poor...

[Maxxrickard]

i mailed and asked GM if they have the G3 suspension. if they have one set i will buy it. then i will go for the FLM. i like "flo65"s FLMcar.

[Rivermaxx]

I have a g-4 and I think its awesome. I dont race either , just a basher. It a awesome design and so choice. All current emaxx parts will bolt on either g-maxx or flm chassis and about 90% of older 3906 parts will fit also. My unfinished g-maxx new improved all aluminum Silverback build below.



Heres the doner:

[Maxxrickard]

nice. is it just RPM or flextek arms you guys suggest. flextek are expensive and RPM looks boring...

[Rivermaxx]

I would have rpm arms over flextek. 2 reasons #1 is price #2 The truetrac design is the $hit! alot like my UE racer x rear suspension.

[JoFreak]

Well, you have to decide if you want a hardcore bashing truck or if you want a brilliant looking shelf queen.
Maybe you want to compare the prices of good aluminium suspensions and the price of the flextek suspension and see if the difference is really that big.

One thing you might want to keep in mind: if you build an all alluminium truck, you can't predict what's the most likely part to break. But it's allways going to be expensive.
If you do it like me, you have aluminium bulks which are pretty stable and stiff.
Have titanium suspension arms which are stable but can flex if you crash it.
And the plastic (RPM) axle carriers break if it gets too much, but are cheap and easy/fast to replace. Same thing for the plastic drive shafts, they keep the too hard punishment away from the hardened differentials, drivecups/outdrives and tranny.

Just my 2 €cents...

[Rivermaxx]

Actually, I believe the UE racer x cost more than flextek especially with the rear setback arms and front high impact arms. With flexytek you get cast titanium arms that are the same design and geometry as the stock arms. They flex when hit just like rpm does for alot less money. The down side to this is I have heard alot people complain they bent hinge pins like crazy including ti pins because of the flexing.I also heard cvd's take alot of punishment also with flexytek.
The UE racer x arms have improved geometry that removes bump steer and is completly adjustable. All UE aluminum is T6 7075 aq billet and is stronger and harder than any aluminum you can buy. Although brillant looking, I assure you they are strong and can take a hit. I have jumped 10' in the air and landed hard without any issues. If you do the same with flexytek you will probably end up buying another set of titanium hinge pins. That can get expensive over time @ $20 a pop. Stock plastic drives and diffs wont last a day with the power of my setup. That why I run titanium center drivshafts with UE hardened cups, steel UE cvds and 1/8 scale 8 spider diffs in UE ultralite diff cases, This is probably most bullet proof set up you can get for an emaxx. My truck is all aluminum but it isnt the cheap stuff made by integy. I really dont need to defend UE aluminum products they make the best parts money can buy period. You may pay more but in the end you know your getting strength and long lasting quality.