Brushless Thunder Tiger ST-1

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Here is my new project now that I have sold my MT2. I’ve been itching to do something 1/8 scale, since my only experience with r/c so far has been 1/10 scale (MT2 and Stampede). I debated converting a monster truck or truggy. I like the ground clearance of a monster truck but wanted something lighter and with better handling. A truggy is the clear alternative, and I can always help the ground clearance issue by increasing the droop or putting on bigger tires. And if I go racing, then it’s easy to lower it again.

If I was doing a monster truck, I would have gone with the MGT due to the easy layout for a conversion and the durable reputation of the truck. However, once I finally decided to convert a truggy instead, I zeroed in on the Thunder Tiger ST-1. My second choice was the Jammin’ CRT RTR, but I picked the ST-1 for several reasons. It has a reputation for extreme durability and shouldn’t need any hop-ups to handle extreme brushless power. It also has a lower diff ratio than the CRT, so the spur gear is smaller, which allows the use of the Kyosho plastic spur. It also has mud guards, which allows more room on the chassis for electric stuff. It also includes center cvd’s and metal chassis braces, which the CRT does not. Finally, I’ve seen several CRT conversions around here, but I’m not aware of anybody who’s converted an ST-1 yet.

I took several pictures of the ST-1 next to my MT2 to show the difference in size. The ST-1 is MUCH bigger, but I expect it to only weigh about 2.5 pounds more than the MT2 when I’m done. The ST-1 should be less than 10 pounds after it is converted.

Here is my planned setup. I haven’t bought anything yet from Mike, so I’m open to alternatives.

Quark 125b controller
Neu 1515/1Y motor
TrueRC 5s2p 8000mah lipo
Mechanical brakes
ubec

I made a proposed layout in the picture below. I’m going to use Associated battery cups for the lipo and a custom aluminum angle mount for the motor. The center diff spur doesn’t allow enough room for the lipos, so I’m going to flip the diff around so that the spur is towards the front of the truck. I’m going to zip tie the Quark to the aluminum servo plate and hope that it helps keep it cool by acting as a mini heat sink. If the Quark still gets too hot, then I may remove the radio box and bolt the Quark directly to the chassis there so that the chassis will act as a big heat sink. I’d prefer to keep the radio box, though, because it helps maintain the weight distribution and will protect the receiver and ubec from the elements.

If anybody has a suggestion, feel free to chime in.