My e-revo brushless edition build - RC-Monster Forums

mistercrash · **My e-revo brushless edition build -** 05.15.2009, 09:40 AM

There are too many rules governing the kiddie forum so I was asked to post this here. So here it is. Hope you enjoy.

MY E REVO BRUSHLESS EDITION BUILD

First thing I did before even trying it was to take the TQ transmitter and receiver and install that in my son's Mini T. Then I installed my DX3R receiver, an ACE single servo, Proline steering arm and EC3 connectors. I also made a custom antenna tube.

The pics:

And after it's first run on the street and grass.

Here's my ERBE 8 hours after I got it. I just can never leave well enough alone.

But I guess it's good to check everything out because after only one 12 minute run, one of my diffs, the front one sprung a leak. And there were a couple of screws that were stripped with the plastic of the chassis melted on the threads.

mistercrash · 05.15.2009, 09:41 AM

6 MM ALUMINUM MOTOR PLATE

Something I did while the chassis and rockers are taking a bath in black RIT dye. I am using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I painted them black with high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff. I made a carbon fiber motor plate before this and I used it for a while but I was having some temp issues with the motor. My guess is that the aluminum motor plate will help dissipate heat better than carbon fiber.

Since this extra motor plate sets the motor back 3 mm I had to trim the rear shock tower for the back of the motor.

I also had to sand down the fins behind the slipper back plate. The slipper disk pictured here is the carbon fiber one I don’t use anymore.

And this is an idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out.

On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily.

An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount.

The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly.

Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot.

mistercrash · 05.15.2009, 09:42 AM

LST2 DIFFS

The power of the MMM on 6S apparently shredded a few of the stock diffs so I decided to follow Lincpimp’s lead on his project of putting LST diffs in a Revo.

The output shafts are Revo stub axles with the threaded part cut off .

I removed as much material from the outside of the LST2 diff casings as I could so that they would fit inside the Revo bulkheads. Then I painted them black to make them look good.

I trimmed the stops under the chassis for the diffs to fit.

mistercrash · 05.15.2009, 09:43 AM

I will use Traxxas Summit shafts all around this ERBE. I also want them for the center shafts. I put two set screws on either end of each shafts with blue Locktite.

mistercrash · 05.15.2009, 09:43 AM

8th SCALE CENTER DIFF

The 8th scale center diff in a Revo all started with a guy naming himself ‘’CowboyRay’’. He made an 8th scale CD using a Thunder Tiger TTR S3 buggy center differential. His design required extensive machining to be done and was financially out of reach of many. Some people tried to take over this design and tried to market this CD but the financial aspect was a problem again. It was just very expensive to produce and the sale price was high. Cowboy made and sold a few hundreds of them and then stopped when Traxxas came out with their own version of a center differential with rear brake. Then I saw on the RC Monster forum a guy named ‘’sjcrss’’ made an 8th scale center differential with parts of an Ofna Hyper 7 buggy CD that did not require the help of a machinist or machining equipment. Having at least a drill press or access to one helps a lot though. The hardest part of making this CD is definitely making M3X.5 threads in hardened steel.
So I went with sjcrss’ idea of using the hardened steel spur gear as the diff cap and CowboyRay’s idea of using Thunder Tiger parts. I modified the ERBE’s output gear TRA3984X and I modified these two parts, TRA5415 and TRA5416. They are the output shafts for the Revo 3.3 center diff.

The Thunder Tiger spur gear PD1893

mistercrash · 05.15.2009, 09:44 AM

The Traxxas TRA3984X output gear

The Traxxas TRA5415 and TRA5416 output shafts

The Thuder tiger diff parts, diff case PD1897, diff gear set PD1895

The modification done to the Thunder Tiger PD1897 diff case

The final product

shizzon · 05.15.2009, 02:25 PM

looks very nice, i recently made a carbon fiber motor mount/brace for my E-revo, hopefully i wont have any temp issues like you did.

nitrostarter · 05.15.2009, 02:36 PM

That servo arm is really nice! I have one as well. Nice secure servo mounting.

lincpimp · 05.15.2009, 03:44 PM

This is by far the best selection of revo info I have seen, ever... This needs to be made into a sticky and closed. Great job MC and all the better considering you are Canadian! (sorry, had to make a Canada joke, you hoser, eh?!?!?!)

I will be applying alot of this to the slayer when I set it up again. All great info.

TexasSP · 05.15.2009, 04:38 PM

I could write something long and nice but it's easier to just say DITTO to linc's post, Canadian jokes included!

Very impressive write up.

rawfuls · 05.19.2009, 12:38 AM

I think it's better to have holes in a metal case, because if you don't, the fire and pressure will build up, and when you open the case after the fire has started, you better run away, fast, because it will just come bursting out.

Vent holes is best.

mistercrash · **Rear bulkheads -** 05.20.2009, 11:34 PM

The front bulkheads are secured to the chassis with six screws. 4 M4 button head screws and two M3 that go through the front shock tower and chassis and screw into the front bulkheads. The rear ERBE bulkheads only have 4 screws to secure them to the chassis, two M4 button head screws in the back and two M3 screws that go through the rear shock tower. I wanted to have two more M4 screws to hold the rear bulkheads to the chassis like the front ones.

I drilled those right through with a 3.3 mm drill bit and then made M4X.7 mm threads in the holes.

I drilled matching hole in the chassis with a 4 mm drill bit.

Now I have two more M4 screws that secure the rear bulkheads to the chassis. Since my rear shocks are a bit higher because of the shims I put underneath the rocker posts and rear shock tower, the shocks do not rub on the screw heads.

I will also be trying out a different way of using the M3 screws that go through the rear shock tower and shock caps. I used longer screws that stick out the bottom and I put a lock nut to tighten everything up really tight and secure. A couple hole in the center skid plate to be able to take the screws out if I have to without removing the center skid plate. If you are worried that dirt might get in there because of the two holes, I say, dirt gets in there anyway even with no holes.

Urgeoner · 05.24.2009, 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rawfuls

I think it's better to have holes in a metal case, because if you don't, the fire and pressure will build up, and when you open the case after the fire has started, you better run away, fast, because it will just come bursting out.

Vent holes is best.

Ventilation hole would only help the fire

And fire uses oxygen, so where would the "pressure" build up if it uses all its oxygen? I think the more airtight the case the better.

sjcrss · 05.21.2009, 04:40 PM

MC, it's nice to see the original design of the CD , working under real life track conditions, with a few tweaks by yourself..included... Hopefully this weekend I'll be testing my original diff at a track, and see how it actually performs for me as well. Your truck looks great, I think I may give the aluminum slipper disc a try, if i ever get a chance to make one....maybe this weekend I'll get a chance....nice work man...

mistercrash · **Belleville springs -** 05.21.2009, 11:43 PM

Wow! My build is a sticky. I'm honored.

sjcrss,
I'm sure you will love how your CD performs. I know I couldn't go back to the Traxxas CD after racing with my 8th scale CD.

Speaking of the slipper, I bought belleville springs on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-16-x-3-8-Belle...3%3A1|294%3A30

And I will try out 6 of them like this ((())) tomorrow.