I'll have a crack at a few considerations;
- in my experience the servo can be anything because steering weight isn't an issue for straight line running. If however you install a gyro, speed becomes an issue...it needs to keep up with gyro. I have a couple of those 1015's - fast, strong & they work nicely with a gyro the way I've used them
- again in my experience fore and aft downforce/suspension can be measured by feel & eyeball. Too soft in the rear & you loose steering when you're accelerating hard...too soft in the front & you'll loose the back end when braking (the back will try & overtake the front). Kind of basic as a theory but it's worked for me
- ride height depends on the running surface. A 1/10 TC has < 1/4" at speed but hit a bump in the road & it's airborne...I would think somewhere between 1/2-3/4" for 1/8 scale is a reasonable starting point. Here's my Rustler...has about 1/2" in the static position. I limited the shock upstroke with fuel tube (pink) so that it never bottomed out but there's no evidence that the shock ever compressed that far...I had it up over 95mph by my GPS
- I would use the stiffest springs available & 50-70wt shock oil, depending on the brand (I use 70wt Losi in my 8T) & then fine tune ride height etc on the shock itself
I look at speed runs as an equation. If the equation is balanced then controllable speed will come relatively easily