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Location: Slidell, LA
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03.07.2011, 11:59 AM
Ok, so I got the rear cvds finished. They work fine. Took the truck out with a new battery I recently got, a turnigy 4500 30c hardcase.
I blew up a front driveshaft after 3 mins. So back to the workbench. Waiting on the tekno front hubs then I will get to building the front driveshafts. I hope the rest of the truck is built better than the driveshafts.
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03.19.2011, 11:24 PM
I went ahead and bought another full set of Tekno's for my Slash 4x4. They have yet to show any signs of wear on my Pede 4x4, and it seems like people just don't have many failures. I also have the old MIP CVD's, and can say the Teknos CV seems more heavy duty. The pin is a bigger diameter, and none of those little set screws. I'll take some pics before I install them. But after running the 2400 on 4s with the big old Trenchers, I ended up with 2 messed up hex nuts, the pins stripped the inside of the hexes so Aluminum hexes are also on the way .
BTW the other things I have upgraded are my arms to RPM and both shocktowers, the front to aluminum because I had it, and I shattered the rear, so went RPM. OH, yeah I bent a shock shaft, but that was my fault. Other then that the truck has taken a beating.
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03.20.2011, 12:18 AM
Rpm parts are favorites of mine. They flex, and that is not that great for precise handling, but they survive stuff that the stockers would not.
I was a bit reluctant due to the price on the tekno parts. The hubs and carriers are very nice, glad I got them. Since the pede 4x4 can support the bigger cvds I will use them. One less thing to break.
I also plan to make a big cvd set for my 2wd pede based tube buggy. The 9l in that tears up rear driveshafts.
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03.20.2011, 11:31 AM
Yep, RPM FTW I've watched them flex, and I just know the stock stuff would have crumbled. Not sure about ever getting precise handling out of a Pede, but not knowing where it's going is part of the fun.
I just wish I had all your parts laying around, then maybe I could just throw something together , also.
But I'll be watching your 2wd progress, also. I have a Slash 2wd, with full Jato arms, and rear carriers, so it has the 10x15x4 inner bearing , I run modded Jato driveshafts and can twist them like pretzels.
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03.20.2011, 12:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by asheck
Yep, RPM FTW I've watched them flex, and I just know the stock stuff would have crumbled. Not sure about ever getting precise handling out of a Pede, but not knowing where it's going is part of the fun.
I just wish I had all your parts laying around, then maybe I could just throw something together , also.
But I'll be watching your 2wd progress, also. I have a Slash 2wd, with full Jato arms, and rear carriers, so it has the 10x15x4 inner bearing , I run modded Jato driveshafts and can twist them like pretzels.
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I will say the mip shiny cvds I have for my 2wd pede have held up very well. Just lost a pin in one last run, I did not have heatshrink on them to save the pin if the setscrew backed out. I made a new pin out of a drill bit shank, ground a flat on it, and used heatshrink around the joint. Should be good to go. Those cvds have seen alot of motor combos, and never run anything mild.
I will say they look a bit weak for a heavy vehicle, say a full al pede or big tires. That is why i plan to use the larger cvds designed for the old maxx. Sure 6mm axles are a bit weak for 1/8 scale, but they should do fine on a 10th 2wd. Mine will likely be built out of cut down lst1 cvds, as i have a bunch.
Now, any idea where I can find a cvd cup with a 5mm hole in it? I have a few but the slotted area is not really deep enough to account for the in and out motion of a wheel cvd, these were for a center drive setup, and the cvds do not move, just rotate.
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03.20.2011, 02:32 PM
http://www.teknorc.com/product_info....8a217800d142dd What about the Tekno's? The front and rears are a little different, so maybe 1 would work better.
For my Slash driveshafts I need something about 1-1.5 inches longer then stock,I've never measured. But I guess at this point I could use the Tekno outputs, and carriers, and just mismatch the rest.
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03.20.2011, 09:10 PM
Hmm, they might work great. The rears are 1mm longer, does this mean the slotted part is longer, or the entire assy is longer and the slots are the same length? Could you check for me, I want the longer slot out of the 2, as the cvd shaft does move a fair amount in and out thru the suspension travel.
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03.20.2011, 10:12 PM
The slots appear to be the same distance from the diff side. Which means the rear would have that 1mm deeper slot.
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03.20.2011, 11:55 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by asheck
The slots appear to be the same distance from the diff side. Which means the rear would have that 1mm deeper slot.
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Then that is what I want. Many thanks matey!!!
I shall have to pick up a set and get to work on the 2wd pede as well as the 4wd. I shall try to do both this week, although I can see myself being very busy at work.
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03.22.2011, 09:55 PM
Sorry, wrong dang pic,
Last edited by asheck; 03.22.2011 at 09:56 PM.
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06.06.2017, 12:10 PM
6yrs later, i am actually finishing up this mod...
Doing some fresh research it looks like xo-1 axles and knuckles/carrier would be the best bet. Or just buy the techno setup and be done with it. My maxx/savage setup here is likely much stronger, but it may not matter.
I'll post pics, since that is the only thing you gents like....
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RC-Monster Brushless
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06.06.2017, 11:42 PM
Better late than never
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