Need help with my G3-build

[JoFreak]

Thank you Sir

I actually did paint the inside of the body
"Good" thing about that truck is: it's fast enough, so you don't see how messed up the paintjob is

[JoFreak]

The continously bad weather gave me several stupid ideas on what to "improve" on this truck...
The biggest, most expensive idea will hopefully be ready for "presentation" in October or November.
But there are a lot of things left where I need your help!

1. Metal Driveshafts in combination with 1/8th diffs in FLM hybrid bulks.
But not with those adapters Traxxas uses but with the regular diffs with their regular diff outdrive cups. As far as I know the Traxxas 5451R driveshafts would be too short in that configuration.
I think I read something about HongNor/Jammin X2 CRT shafts having the right length. Anyone can confirm that or knows a metal driveshaft that fits?

2.I would like to get 17mm hex adapters in the style of the Traxxas 5353X adapters but with 2 right hand threaded and 2 left hand threaded.
So that the wheel nuts on the right side don't loosen themselves continously if I don't put loctite on them.
Anyone knows a manufacturer who uses hex adapters like that?

That's it for today

[JoFreak]

Well, it's been a while since I last posted in this thread, and it's gotten pretty quiet around here in general. But the old lady is still around!
Haven't had much time for big projects in the last few months so the g-maxx was on hold for a while.
But with the last exams over for now...

Yes, exactly. Complete rebuild, cleaning and a few changes.
The eagle eyed monsters may already spot the first change, I hope I can show you guys the first results within the next 2-3 weeks.

And I need your input:
Keep the CC1518 or switch to the CC 1520?

[suicideneil]

1518 ftw, its just the perfect motor for lots of power still on 6s, or sane power on 4-5s. I think I see what you've changed, or are changing- LST cvds right? Will be interesting to see how well those do..

[JoFreak]

Actualy X2 CRT shafts, but yes, right direction.
Length should be fine, as far as I can tell right now.
Hopefully I can get the axle carriers modified within the next week, and then I just need a new set of ball bearings.

As for 1518 vs. 1520, I have both motors and apart from the g-maxx no use for them, so I might as well try both...

[Kcaz25]

Great! What axle carriers are you going to use with those shafts? Stock? It will be interesting to watch.

[JoFreak]

I will be using modified RPM carriers for the old maxx.
Basicaly I'm going to do this mod. But only the bearing part.

I just ordered all the necessary bearings from avid and realised that after this mod, there are only 8x16x5 bearings on my truck. Apart from stearing off course.
How's that for keeping spares?
Real nice me thinks

[George16]

The X1/X2 crt universal's length will be fine. I had been using them on my Gmaxx along with UE's racerx suspension so I can use my 17mm truggy tires on it. Simplifies the need for 2 different wheel hex sizes.

[JoFreak]

Yeah I think that's where I got that X2 CRT + Maxx idea from.
Wasn't shure though, good to get confirmation that they will fit.
They will need a few milimeters of shimming though.

At the moment I'm looking into a front lower hinge pin brace.
I bend/break a lower front pin every time I drive that truck and I'm fed up with this...

[George16]

I've had luck using ejector pins cut to length as hinge pins. I also had it captured by cutting a mortise into the pin and drilled/tapped a 3mm hole into the bulkhead so a setscrew can hold it in place..

You can check my gmaxx build here:

[JoFreak]

Hinge pin material isn't the solution, I bent quite a few lunsford pins as easy as any other.
Problem with the flextek lower arm is, it actually flexes (who'd have thought that?).
And in combination with the pillowball suspension design, the complete force of an impact is transfered to that one part of the hinge pin as long as it's not braced behind the arm.

As for the setscrew holes, they come standard with the FLM hybrid bulks.
I'm going to get some silver steel bars and cut them to length, they should be fine once I have said brace.

[George16]

The ejector pins I had been using are made from hardened steel. Put it this way, I still have to bend or any any after bashing hard with my truck.

FLM came up with the setscrew holes after the fact .

[JoFreak]

Yes, but from what I've seen you use aluminum a-arms.
And they don't flex as easy, so the forces are distibuted more evenly over the whole pin.
As I tried to discribe: with my setup the forces from an impact are completely concentrated in one point of the pin.
Even if the pin wouldn't bend, the rear mounting point of the suspension arm would be pushed of the pin and collide into the steering assembly.

Trust me, I appreciate your input, but I also know my maxx.

[George16]

Oh I see. I didn't realize those flextek arms bend that much.

[JoFreak]

Well, they don't bend permanently, so the arms are fine, but the results are as discribed above.
I know someone who had the same issue with his flextek arms and a hinge pin brace completely resolved that problem for him. But his truck probably was a lot lighter then mine is. So I'll have to see but I'm confident it'll work...