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  (#121)
Jahay
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08.11.2010, 05:04 AM

really? standard thick black electrical tape? if it works, ill definitely use it
   
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  (#122)
scarletboa
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08.12.2010, 03:19 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahay View Post
really? standard thick black electrical tape? if it works, ill definitely use it
that's what i have been using. no problems yet


They say a good mechanic only needs 2 tools - WD40 & Duct tape. If it moves, and its not supposed to, duct tape. If it doesn't move, and its supposed to, WD40.
   
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  (#123)
Jahay
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08.13.2010, 03:16 AM

ill give it a go!!! Cheers

Yesterday something i have been waiting for to arrive fell through my letterbox after paying $20 customs.... Something shiny and pretty

My New Bulk Heads!!! From GoldenHorizons... MY GOD THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL!!!! and cant wait to fit them
Should stop any flex at all between my diff gears and my bearings should last longer.
And now i have these, my truck is basically ready for 9s!!!!





once i have her all together and abused her quite a bit... i will be getting all the alloy re anodized in orange!!! :P
   
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  (#124)
_dV
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08.13.2010, 03:48 AM

very nice. what do they weigh? ..and you never weighed your center diff for me . glad to hear about the re-anodizing plans. can't stand the purple personally, as you can probably tell from my build. Still waiting on slipper part for mine
   
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  (#125)
Jahay
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08.13.2010, 04:44 AM

oh man, im sorry... Im off on holiday for a week today. But when i get back i am doing a full tear down, and complete rebuild, so ill weigh the CD and the bulks for you then...

Definitely re ano all of the purple... HATE PURPLE! i like the orange theme for this truck, similar to the wire mesh i use to protect the cables...
   
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  (#126)
danielc79
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08.13.2010, 07:21 PM

do you do your own annodizing or pay someone to do it? i'd like some of my purple crap orange or blue....
   
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  (#127)
suicideneil
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08.14.2010, 03:46 AM

I know of a guy in the USA who does his own anodizing, but his setup looks very complex & it requires loads of nasty chemicals, so its usually a case of send the parts off to a specialist company to get them done. You pay buy the 'basket load', rather than a set price for each piece, so the more parts you get done at once, the cheaper it works out per part ( thats the usual practice that I've seen ).
   
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  (#128)
Jahay
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08.15.2010, 08:26 AM

i know a few companies in the states that do anodizing, and usually charge around $100 for all the alloy on a savage truck. I will have to find the name, im on holiday at the moment so will link you to it when i am back ...
   
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  (#129)
Finnster
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08.16.2010, 05:21 PM

I talked to a few annodizers for quotes around here, and $100-150 is about right for a basket of parts. Best to have everythign ready at once. An additional load in a diff color tended to be only ~$20 extra.

I talked to Jaime at FLM once about ano parts, and he said he knew of a place that could do it for less. This was last year, so IDK right now.

And yes, the purple is hideous. :)
   
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  (#130)
nuz69
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08.16.2010, 05:55 PM

You will finally succeed in jumping one or two houses


Inferno VE MMv3 NEU-CC 1515/1Y 4S "Flying machine"

MBX5T Prospec MMv3 NEU-CC 1520/1Y 6S "Overkill Flying machine" ;)

Brushless, what else ?
   
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  (#131)
Jahay
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08.25.2010, 07:32 AM

haha maybe nuz... we will see...

update on the build...

Things have been going very slow recently... just got back from holiday, now i am busy at work, then i am off this weekend. So just never have time for the truck...

I have been putting her slowly back together and while she is apart, im cleaning everything and building her completely from the ground up.
Changing all the fluids and bearings etc...
Decided to run 30k rear 50k front and 50k centre for now.

There is still a lot of work to do and i am running into minor difficulties, and hopefully with my build, others will be aware if one is doing something similar

Here are some pictures and also i need some help and advice on some problems which will be stated below
I thought i would take loads of pics, post them as i know things wont look this shiny or clean for a long while till i get everything re anodized in 3-4 months time. So i am taking the opportunity to take loads of pictures.


Stock Shock Tower
GH Bulks (yes they work with the flux)
BP Diffs w/ 30k diff oil (rear)
HD Centre Axle
Gorilla snawt for grease and some very nice bearings for the diffs and my RSC Hubs...
I cant believe how amazing these bulks are... the diffs have a great soild mesh with a ridiculously smooth movement!!! SO SO HAPPY!








Ok so the problems i am having... Small problems but im sure there are ways around them....
1. The Savage suspension conversion upper arm mount does not work with these bulks due to the design(stock upper arms obviously do).
You cannot use stock upper arms with the savage suspension conversion because the rear alloy hubs protrude towards the bulks too much. Anyway, it means i need to utilise the upper arms that come with the conversion but using the stock mounting method. This isnt a problem... but there is something i need in order to make it work.
The picture below explains what i need. Could someone help me out and find the bits i need that fit into the plastic upper arm bits and perfectly accommodate the size of the stock upper arm pin please?



So that is my first problem... i then ran into my next problem which involves the HPI Anti Roll bar... Here are some more pictures, and you may be able to spot what i am on about... If not, just keep reading









Ok from the pictures you can see that i should be able to mount the plastic shield that holds the ARB in position. There are even holes for screws for the plastic shield to be held in place.... BUT THE HOLES ARE NOT THREADED!!!! so does this mean i should just thread some holes my self??? I know not many of you have the GH Bulks, but some do and if you have encountered this problem, please show me the way....

Last few pics i promise....





So...

Just to recap, i have 2 problems... the upper arm problem and the ARB screw hole problem... Any advice about the ARB or links to where i can get the right size collers for the upper arm pins?
I will continue with the build, but need all these little things to complete it...
RAN OUT OF BLUE LOC TITE TOO!!!! need some of that.... OH and i am about of diff gaskets, so need some of them too...
   
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  (#132)
Jahay
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09.06.2010, 07:05 AM

shimmed my axles today, and have some great ideas for a custom roll cage...i was looking at some from Main5t but considering he hasnt got my chassis to build around, i thought i would make my own...

everything is cming together, and i have solved my upper arm problems... i am yet to tap out the sway bar holes

i Had problems with stiff meshing on my front GH Bulkhead... I realised that it was because when i broke a pinion on my BP Diffs, i decided to replace only the pinion rather than the set... they obviously have different wear patterns, which meant that with the tight tolerances of the GH Bulks, the gears were not working smoothly... so i am waiting on my new BP Diffs to arrive...
   
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  (#133)
Jahay
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09.12.2010, 04:46 PM

Ok ive been working on getting the truck into one piece this weekend... It has been apart for so long. The centre diff is complete, and i have put the lipo boxes on as i am prepping for 9s... And also made a start on my own custom nylon roll cage... Its not completed yet as i still have to make the front shock tower protection and after thats completed, i will be setting the camber and shimming my axles and other little things like meshing the motor and CD....

Tell me what you think?

First... I bought a cheap tap screw set to try and tap the bulks for my sway bars... anyway that didnt work so i improvised... It works and will hold for the time being... Not pretty but i dont care.. i just want to run teh truck



Made an internal lipo stop. Will prevent the lipo flying into the centre diff...




Ok the pics of my cage....

How it started...



I attached the nylon to the bumpers... this way, force is transferred to either bumper rather than the TVPs or anything else...
To hold the screws in place, as to not rip the plastic bumper, i used a small alloy plate....



Making the rear shock tower part of the cage...





And thats where i got to today... The rear needs a little more support, but i stopped early as i was getting tired, and didnt want to mess up the job...

Here are some more pics





   
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  (#134)
Jahay
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09.12.2010, 04:46 PM





I havent got a picture yet, but i have put all my weight on it although its not finished. It does take a lot of force but with a lot of flex absorbing the impact.

Thanks Mainst for the inspiration.... You know you would have had my business if it were not due to my chassis...

Will keep you posted as to what it will look like when finished...
   
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Old
  (#135)
Nard Cox
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09.13.2010, 03:46 AM

Nice bars!

It does sit a bit low at the rear though.


Mugen MBX6Te RCM + Mugen MBX6e RCM + Savage Flux XL FLM + MERV all with Spectrum DX3S || WTS&WTB
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