Stretched e-Muggy (Baja-style) Build Thread - Page 9 - RC-Monster Forums

brian015 · 01.16.2011, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lincpimp

By the lookd of the gear the pinion needs to be shimmed closer to the diff, and the diff needs to be shimmed so it pushes against the pinion more. When I build diffs I like them to feel a little "tight" they way they will wear in and not be slack. Just did a hpi bulletproof set in a gh savage bulk and they do feel a bit tight in places when you rotate them. I also use synthetic grease on those gears. Given the vay lst diffs are sealed, some gear oil or oil stabilizer could be used for lubrication. Keeping a thin layer of oil on the gears will cut down wear and drag alot. I wish the savage gears were sealed in a case like the lst...

Yes I think you're right. I haven't put the diff back together but was trying out some shims and could definitely get it a bit tighter than it was - You may have convinced me to get it even tighter. I was concerned that shimming the pinion was causing it to just barely rub against the diff cup - but since I'm using a plastic hd diff cup, it shouldn't be a problem. I also use synthetic grease inside the lst diff case.

Thanks for your input.

lincpimp · 01.16.2011, 10:44 PM

No prob, I shimmed a set of lst diffs with the tin coated gears like that about 2 yrs ago and have not had any issues even with the 1717 motor and my shock-destroying driving style...

brian015 · 05:19 PM

I had some time to finish rebuilding the front end:

I spent some time getting the steering as smooth as possible, there were some places that were offering a little resistance. I also moved the steering servo forward as far as possible:

in order to open up more room for my battery compartments:

I want these to be as large as possible to give me more options when I buy new packs. I'm planning to purchase 2x5s 5000mAh packs to run in this and I should be able to get them to fit now. I have both more length and width on the trays and they are adjustable, too. (max length = 170mm, width = 50mm on one side and 45mm on the other side) I can move my current batteries farther forward to get more weight over the front tires - maybe improving handling. I can also adjust the width of the tray by loosening two screws and sliding the long Al angle. I have to cut pieces for the other compartment and then I will make a single Al strap to tie both batteries down. I'm hoping to be able to make something that is easier to use than a bunch of velcro straps under the rollcage, which I used previously.

01.22.2011, 12:00 AM

Did you buy the baja rollcage or did you have one lying around? I did a quick search for baja rollcage on ebay but couldn't find anything. Is it called something else?

brian015 · 01.22.2011, 08:27 AM

I guess "roll bar" is what its being called:

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

I bought one off of eBay. Some sell the center support separate, some package it all together.

01.22.2011, 08:52 AM

What exactly is ther center support ? And most of those didn't have the metal top support. Do you happen to know what that's called as well? :)

brian015 · 01.22.2011, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dj_Sparky

What exactly is ther center support ? And most of those didn't have the metal top support. Do you happen to know what that's called as well? :)

Yeah, I looked again and the auctions now seem to be all separate. I was able to get the long roll bar set, center roll bar set, and roof plate together, but it looks like you need to buy all three separately now to get the complete roll cage, including:

http://toys.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nk....c0.m270.l1313

C-5Quad · 01.22.2011, 02:44 PM

This was a 9 page 127 post read that was worth every word........its an awsome 1/5 scale you made there congrats!!!!

brian015 · 01.22.2011, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-5Quad

This was a 9 page 127 post read that was worth every word........its an awsome 1/5 scale you made there congrats!!!!

Thanks for the kind words - I'm enjoying working on it again this winter and look forward to driving it when the weather turns nice.

01.22.2011, 10:11 PM

Thanks for the info Brian.

brian015 · 05:12 PM

Battery compartments and new strap are complete. I used 1.5" wide 1/16" thick Al to make the strap. It attaches to M4 screws with holes drilled through the cap heads for clips. I'll see how I like it:

Bmr4life · 01.26.2011, 05:24 PM

I hope that's really tight. Don't want the batteries being able to move at all because they'll hit that metal strap and potentially get cut.

Some velcro strap routed through the chassis would be a nice plan B.

brian015 · 01.26.2011, 05:35 PM

Yes - I'll be adding some padding under the metal strap before I use it to make sure everything is snug.

Jahay · 01.26.2011, 07:51 PM

Looks solid! definitely want to see more videos when it is ready. But i would definitely line the battery trays with foam of some kind?

I just had a close look to see where your ICE ESC and BEC were mounted. Have you thought about installing a fan connected to the 3rd channel to keep the ESC Cool??? Have you got any clearer images of the esc mounted to just give me a rough idea as to how large it is and mounting points etc????

Thanks

brian015 · 01.26.2011, 08:19 PM

I didn't have room to mount the esc flat to my chassis so I made vertical brackets from Al strips and secured them to the chassis through some rubber pieces (to give it a little shock absorption). The esc is the same length as the 1527 it runs next to - so it's right at 4" long. I didn't have any problems with temps last summer in 80-90F weather (see back a few pages) so I didn't bother with a fan.

I haven't yet cleaned and rebuilt the back half of the truck yet, which you can see from some of the dirt in the pics.