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wait, so what are you guys saying? i'm going to kill my esc by stopping? how long will this take and why am i only hearing about it now?
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think of it this way:
Having foward-brake-reverse all on your esc can be compared to flickering a light. When you flicker a light alot, you drain tons of electricity and you will notice the difference on your electric bill. When you keep the light on constantly you will not drain nearly as much power. Same thing with the esc-motor, it will drain your batts faster, but more importantly it can damage your motor and esc. To sum up the analogy, having foward-brake-reverse will last you, but having mechanical brakes installed will increase the escs longetivity. But I wouldn't say your esc will die because you had the esc do all foward-brake-reverse functions. Email BK on the subject, or search around the posts (someone quoted what bk said)...that may clear things up. |
It can happen, but it isn't a guarantee that it will kill your esc. You can program any good digital radio to break like you want it to before switching to reverse. It also come's down to how you smash on the brake's. Be gentle and there really isn't anything to worry about.
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I have a question. If you'd be using a single speed conversion and mechanical brakes, why not just use a center diff with a motor mount? You could improve turning a little bit, and be able to adjust the front/rear brake bias, and this would be a lighter setup. The only thing it requires is a little cutting and drilling, although I realize this would be a bit difficult for those without a drill press and an electric saw (like a scroll saw). Overall, though, it should be less work than getting the brake thingy machined (IMO).
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you have a good point metalman
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But I ain't the one doing the machining. The center diff will most likley cost more wouldn't it? To get one of my braking units set up in a maxx would cost about $90-$100 (including disc brakes, hexes, and all other linkage). And it takes almost no time to install (gorilla may take some work though). |
Picked up a new 8 spyder diff, send it over to mike for an adaptor plate, and design some center diff mount's in emachineshop who a friend cnc cut's out of high quality alum.
Total amount spend: under 100$. Add another 40$ for custom length cvd's by rc alloy's if needed. If you want this to be disc brake'd, you need a adaptor ring thingy for disc's on the output's of the diff and a system to activate the brake's, sorta like your idea. Add another 50$ or so for a quad disc brake set-up. Can't get any better than this. Cept 2 speed. :004: |
A brushless controller doesn't go in reverse when the truck is moving forward, i don't know where this comes from?
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If you give full throttle and you slam it into reverse the wheel's will either lock up(mass + tire grip ~ higher than the motor can spin backward's) or spin in reverse. Done that a few time's with my "Fred Flinstone" set up.
There are controller's who need to be at stand still to be driven in reverse. |
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you could use some sence with the throttle finger sicco..
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i dont understand why you would want one... |
what are you talking about serum?
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even the most basic esc's will not go into reverse for a set amount of time. something like 5 seconds most of the time.
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Think serum ment my quad disc brake set up. I just think's it sound sexy lol.
I'm designing the whole chassis myself, just like my chassis im running now(flamemaxx). No idea how the center diff is going to work, but being it a 8 spyder diff, i'm not worried. The spurgear will be a 51 t ofna mod 1. I'll post some pic's when I get the chassis done, but that will take a while. The (t)rusty 'ol hacker competition esc will go in reverse when you got full throttle. Bad idea though, luckely I only did it on a wet road with no grip tire's. If you do that offroad, you'll snap the rotor. |
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