Ok, upgrades are required for BL. Personal preference on what one wants to use.

thats a given. But the cycle never stops. Find a way to absorb the power and you wont break as much. Driveshafts are the best place to do this. Revo shafts have a limit, but its high up there....use em if it all possible.

I personally never had this "cycle" problem....my centers, drive shafts, and diffs have yet to fail me...I would agree there are things to do to stop the breakage with BL systems.

The 3.3 drive shafts are tough. But over time the joints on them stretch, but only in the rear. The fronts last forever. the good thing is if you keep your eyes peeled for them on ebay and other places you can pick them up real cheap. I found Killerhobies was clearancing them a while back and picked up 5 pairs at only $6 a pair. still only 30 bucks and thats enough to last a couple years.

Will the 3.3 shafts fit on 1/8th diffs? Do they use set screws or pins to attach? Should I get stock 3.3 arms or RPM 3.3 arms?

no they will not YET mike is comming out with revo 1/8 scale diffs that allow the use with sliders when he comes out with these he might sell the adapter to allow other people to use sliders with 1/8 diffs. Rene also posted hot to make a modification to use sliders with 1/8 diffs it looks like it will work but no one has tryed it here. (quote by coolhandcountry) The way I understand it is this. You take this part and cut the threads off it.
It will slide in the diff with out the drive cups. YOu then attach the slider.
Sounds easy enough but not sure how well it works cause haven't tried it yet.
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What about the a-arms? Should I get RPM 3.3 arms or Traxxas 3.3 arms?

As long as you use the 3.3 sliders, RPM all the way.

For the sake of this thread; Yes, you can use the 3.3 driveshafts on the 1/8th diffs. you need 4 extra output shafts from the revo shafts to make it work. (cut off the thread of the shafts that holds the wheel)

UE shafts are the best cvd's available. their big CVD-ball is the biggest out there. they use notched pins to keep the pins in. Bomb-proof; with your own technical point of view, you must admit that it's weird that a 3mm pin snaps sooner than a 2mm pin. (the pin that holds the gear to the output cup) The 3mm pins you broke are replaceable though. if steel wears, Plastic wears too. Plastic absorbs energy, while retaining its original shape, steel doesn't. Dafni managed to damage a U-joint on his revo shafts, and he is using mild-powered setups. Like you said; revo shafts aren't unbreakable either. Nothing is unbreakable.

Revo shafts are cheap to replace ue's will be a tad more expensive.

If you use plastic arms, stay away from CVD's. you will either break cups, bent shafts or break pins.

With a center-diff, the revo shafts won't give up on you. They look beefy in real.

I agree with that, but I suspect the 3mm pins are harder material (wild guess) or the 3mm were over hardend ( has happend at UE, not sure if this was the same batch). He offered to replace them, but it was the same time he was doing other things I didnt care for, so I didnt want them fixed, I sold any and all UE stuff at that point. So, it wasnt a big deal it may have been a free replacement I dunno.

Likely an isolated incident and one that can happen to any manufacturer. Even overhyped TOYota recently had to recall over 500,000 trucks due to failing parts.

My 6mm UE CVD's have been bulletproof so far.

No doubt they are strong, but my point was the Revo shafts absorb alot of shock, where the ue (or any brand) CVD transfer it more directly. Chances are the CVD wont break, something else will. Once everything else is strong enough though, then the CVD needs to be beefed up and the cycle continues. The revo shaft takes alot of the punishment and saves parts.

Got a question guys, will the center drive shaft of the 3.3MAxx fit the pinion of the lightning pro diffs?

By the way, i do agree that about the plastic shafts. better buy those shaft than destroy my diffs or any other parts which will be a lot cheaper to replace. power must be absorb somewhere, ideally the wheels but the drivetrain will definitely have its share....

the lightning pro diffs input is much larger so it wont fit. You can drill the plastic bigger and cross drill the input shaft though.

i thought so.....i was thinking maybe there is a way to fit it....drilling would make it weak....anyway maybe i could try it sometime.....