3.3 drivetrain for E-Maxx

Will the 3.3 drivetrain conversion or whatever its called hold up to brushless power in the E-Maxx? What other advantages are there of doing this conversion? Is it better than UE cvds? Will it work with 1/8th diffs? What about the new Traxxas cvd's can those be used in this conversion (will they be strong enough)?

Yes, the revo shafts are better than UE driveshafts. Metal driveshafts are solid and transfer power great, but it transfers it to the gears and any weak point in the drivetrain. The plastic shafts are great, they mellow out the hard drivetrain hits. If you beef the tranny way up, and the diffs, and the wheel hex's....you will then start breaking the UE driveshafts, where a revo shaft would hold up fine. Robin will tell you they are gold and his "analysis software" says they a 50 billion times stronger than anything ever made, but welcome to the real world...the revo shafts are better. :027: Same goes for any brand cvd, but since you mentioned ue....but the traxxas ones will be the same.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by burnsomenitro

Will the 3.3 drivetrain conversion or whatever its called hold up to brushless power in the E-Maxx? What other advantages are there of doing this conversion? Is it better than UE cvds? Will it work with 1/8th diffs? What about the new Traxxas cvd's can those be used in this conversion (will they be strong enough)?

I would like someone try the new maxx cvd's by traxxas to see. The 3.3 should be fine, unless you put too much torque on them.
I run the UE cvd's with no issues at all. They have a nice quality, and the fact that they use hex ends instead of the pins, which is a big plus for me. I beat the crap out them too and have no weak points in my 8 spyder diffs. I would say, IMO, that the set up I have is pretty bullet proof.
I will say though that the 3.3 upgrade is a good alternative to using cvd's of any kind.

[Procharged5.0]

Originally Posted by neweuser

I would like someone try the new maxx cvd's by traxxas to see. The 3.3 should be fine, unless you put too much torque on them.
I run the UE cvd's with no issues at all. They have a nice quality, and the fact that they use hex ends instead of the pins, which is a big plus for me. I beat the crap out them too and have no weak points in my 8 spyder diffs. I would say, IMO, that the set up I have is pretty bullet proof.
I will say though that the 3.3 upgrade is a good alternative to using cvd's of any kind.

I'll second that. The UE's are the best CVD's on the market. The REVO3.3 shafts are great since they are cheap and "soak up the shock" as Bomb Proof mentioned in his post.

I'd like to see how the new Traxxas Maxx Driveshafts (the new steel ones) are built and how they compare to the UE 6 or 8mm cvd's.

[Procharged5.0]

BTW, When did the site change the requirements on the signitures. I had to delete most of my signiture to get it to work at all.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by Procharged5.0

BTW, When did the site change the requirements on the signitures. I had to delete most of my signiture to get it to work at all.

Not sure, but my smilies would not work in it.

Anyways, if the emaxx cvd's are anything like the Jato ones, they should be reall good. My Jato's take a beating like no other. They have never bent either, and I have gone into curbs sideways where you can hear the rim and tire "smack", and kept on going!

[Procharged5.0]

They look awesome in the ads. Having the dust boots is a godsend in my opinion. That's the downside to any CVD typically.

When you get the rest of the drivetrain built up enough, it starts over....


not to mention, they wear out very fast. Revo shafts....all the way.

Benifit of Revo shafts...
The large diameter fixes the problems with the original maxx driveshafts, a hollow shaft is stronger than a solid shaft, and plastic is lighter than steel, dust boots, absorbs drivetrain shock, cheap and easy to get, they dont bend if a-arm flexes.

Benifit of Ue shaft
shiny, the UE followers will like you.

Benifit of BranD X CV shaft
whoever likes that brand will like you..

[Procharged5.0]

What brand of CVD is that Bomb?

[Procharged5.0]

Also the wear on the outdrives kind of blows too! U-Joints work much better in my opinion.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by Bomb-Proof

When you get the rest of the drivetrain built up enough, it starts over....

Not always true, much of this depends on what you hit, how you hit, speed, weight, and many other factors. Anything can break no matter what. IMO. I have Revo shafts break as well, not to mention any other part. And again, this all depends on what you hit, how you hit it, speed, weight, etc.....IMO, nothing is "bomb-proof", there are just too many variables to anything. .02

Originally Posted by Bomb-Proof

Not to mention, they wear out very fast. Revo shafts....all the way.

My shafts have hardly any wear after almost a year, but this is MY experience.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by Bomb-Proof

Benifit of Ue shaft
shiny, the UE followers will like you.

Not true. IMO, let's not go there again please.

Originally Posted by Procharged5.0

What brand of CVD is that Bomb?

It looks like an MIP...LOL

[Procharged5.0]

[quote=neweuser]Benifit of Ue shaft
shiny, the UE followers will like you.quote]

This is another out take from the Bomb-Proof hates Robin Oury monologue we're all quite tired of.

Sorry Bomb-Proof but I know several of us here are tired of hearing how much you dislike Robin. Bashing him hurts your credibility...at least from my point of view.

[neweuser]

[QUOTE=Procharged5.0]

Originally Posted by neweuser

Benifit of Ue shaft
shiny, the UE followers will like you.quote]

This is another out take from the Bomb-Proof hates Robin Oury monologue we're all quite tired of.

Sorry Bomb-Proof but I know several of us here are tired of hearing how much you dislike Robin. Bashing him hurts your credibility...at least from my point of view.

Any vendor for that matter from any person. Product reviews are one thing, but bias is another. Just my .02, let's keep the peace is my only point....
I think Revo shafts are good as well as any other. They are cheap to replace, give absorbtion when needed. It's personal preference.

That was a Ue driveshaft.

Not always true, much of this depends on what you hit, how you hit, speed, weight, and many other factors. Anything can break no matter what. IMO. I have Revo shafts break as well, not to mention any other part. And again, this all depends on what you hit, how you hit it, speed, weight, etc.....IMO, nothing is "bomb-proof", there are just too many variables to anything. .02

So when you beef everything else up the breakage doesnt start over? But everything breaks as you say.....everything but UE??
This is how it goes..on an Emaxx
Driveshafts weak-upgrade to UE
Diffs weak- upgrade to 1/8scale
now idler gears are weak- upgrade to UE
1st-2nd gear,drive dog are weak- upgrade to ultrmaxxed
input shaft is weak-custom machine one w/stronger steel
wheel hex weak-upgrade to 23mm

Now....driveshafts break. It starts over.
I agree 100% everything breaks. If you can get something to absorb those stress spikes you can greatly reduce the amount of breakage. Steel doesnt give, it sheers.

I agree 100%, any vendor not just UE. People keep using UE as example, so I am also..I based my tests on UE. UE was the best example of a CVD at the time I was running the E-maxx, the "best you could get" Fill in the blank with any name brand you wish.

This is another out take from the Bomb-Proof hates Robin Oury monologue we're all quite tired of.

not exactly, true I dislike Robin, but has nothing to do with this. If it was RDlogics, I would say the benifit would be people who like RDlogics stuff would like the truck better.