Wow, just found this thread after seeing a picture in the MMpro one; absolutely stunning workmanship!

On the issue of it still being a mini erevo or not, it is. A custom chassis is no different than an aftermarket one bought online or in a shop- its just a homemade one that could easily be repeated and sold en mass if people really wanted it (cnc'd the main upper and lower plates I believe?). The point being really that it is the spirit of the machine that determines what it is- tranny & axles/ suspension design being the main factors.

For example, when you look at 99% aftermarket emaxxes, with UE this and Gorillamax that, you still call it a 'Maxx' dont you? Its just got alot of upgrades that replace the stock parts for something stronger, longer or better designed for the purpose you have in mind.

:smile:

Again, i was not trying to discredit his project...

It is very well made :)


I said that for the following reason,

me and my friend got the mini-revo up to 83mph, thats the fastest mini-revo i seen so far, with parts that everybody can get access to, the truck have the same wheelbase as stock, no added wings, it look stock other than the tires.

So when you try to get the fastest out of a model and see someone building a different , longer chassis, that will give a huge advantage... but you have no access to that same chassis, you cannot compete..., everybody can get an FLM or gorillamaxx, people call their emaxx gorillamaxx or Gmaxx thats for a reason...

I have nothing about the upgrade itself really :)

its a great project im sure he will get some nice gains from that chassis, i wish him best of luck, if we got beaten then we will have to work harder! :mdr:

now back on the thread?

any update kazuaki?

Somehow missed this thread- it looks awesome man... should be able to get some seriously hardcore speed outta it... :)

Just got the MM Pro ESC, so runs will be coming soon.

This should resolve this issue...

This chassis is now available for sale. For a $150 you get the top and bottom chassis plate. You can source the standoffs and bolts to put them together yourself. The lead time from order payment to delivery is 4-6 weeks.

There, now they are available to everyone :yes:

Thats a very good news Kazuaki :)
I will wait and see what kind of speed you will get out of it.


150$ is a lot of money for an incomplete kit, and even if the chassis was complete. But it is now available for everyone so now i retire my comment , even though it was not that much of a big issue for me, just a comment i should have not posted...
was not trying to start anything.... i apologize if it look like that :)

Im sure you will sell them without trouble.

Cant wait to hear about your results

:)

Over_revO, I'm just playing around...definitely not upset :smile:

Yeah, I know what you were trying to say too- its all a case of technicalities really, but it depends how technical you want to get.. :mdr:

Have you thought about applying the same design to a full size revo? That would be a thing of beauty for sure... :yes:

Kind of perplexing to hear less-than-positive remarks on your work Kaz..

I applaud you for "going there" to see what the heck's gonna happen. My mini-revo is all tricked out with off-the-shelf stuff. So what.. I guess if someone else bought all the same stuff and set it up the same way, they'd get close to the same top speed. Where's the braggin' rights in that??

For a single run machine shop price which is obviously what he has posted the 150 for the part is not bad at all. If it were a production run type thing I would expect better pricing but it is what it is.

In all honesty, I set that price and the long lead time hoping nobody would want one :oops: It's just not the business I want to be in. Let me make some speed runs on this and verify that it does what it's supposed to. Then I will start a new thread gauging interest. As most of you know, the price would be partially determined by the number of units. The pieces are cut on a waterjet, so the setup work is minimal. Of course, the designed needs to be compensated for his efforts as well :na:

I should have some preliminary spped runs done this week, now that my ESC is finally here.

Just keep in mind that if you do intend to sell the chassis you get in touch with Mike. It's one thing to sell the ocasional item, but it's another to sell a product of yours.

Absolutely. This forum and it's member have been good to me. The last thing I would want to do is anything to hurt the forum. I promise :angel:

So, it's been a while without an update. I've been busy breaking parts :sarcastic: I destroyed a transmission and multiple rear-center driveshafts.

I hope this solves my issue with breaking rear driveshafts...

I started with a set of the new Integy steel center driveshafts. I'm not thrilled about the quality of them, but they are the only metal ones available. My chassis is 40mm longer in the rear than stock, so the driveshaft needed to be extended quite a bit. I first cut the Integy driveshaft in half. Next, I bought some 6061 aluminum tubing that has an inside diameter of 3.9 mm. The Integy driveshafts are 4 mm in diameter, so I drilled the center of the tube out just slightly, so that is would slide over the cut ends of the driveshaft. I made sure the fit was VERY tight. I then used a large vise to press the ends into the tube. At this point, the assembly felt very strong and I think it would have been fine, but I decided to take it a step further to be sure. I drilled a small hole at each end all the way through the tube and center shaft and drove a wheel hex pin through it. Finally, I covered it in heatshrink, just for looks.

What do you think?

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/minierevo/rearshaft/shaft1.jpg

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/minierevo/rearshaft/end1.jpg

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/minierevo/rearshaft/end2.jpg

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/minierevo/rearshaft/covered.jpg

Looks freakin nice!!!

I think you just solved a problem for me that I'm having on my 8T as well

Nice work Kaz! Hope this stops the breakage so we can see that 100mph mark

it may hold up, it would have been much better welded and balanced

If I had the ability to do either of those things, I may have gone that route. Being that this shaft is connecting a 1/16 scale tranny to a 1/16 scale rear diff, I doubt the driveshaft is going to be the weak link anymore :lol:

thats very true, i tend to over engineer things

but i figured that the ballance would be very important because of the size of the bearings

have you figured out how fast the shaft will be turning when the truck hit 100mph?

honestly i would have something made for it, atleast protect your lipos from it with a sheild if it does brake......but the if it does fail around 100mph it could total the truck..............see we engineers take things to far







oh and i my have my math wrong (its 5am lol) but that drive shaft is turning at 23k rpm at 100mph........... thats why balance is a huge factor............how are your bearings?

Wow! kinda reminds me of my g-maxx high speed build but yours has alot higher power to weight ratio. Cant wait to see the results. Are you going to the isc event in fontana? I have a brand new low downforce jconcept wing I will not be using it has pretty decent size vertical stabilizers. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRAD4&P=7

Yeah, I've been keeping an eye on your build. I would love to go to the ISC event so I could actually have a good place to run this thing. Unfortunately, that weekend is also the NHRA Finals in Pomona and I bought tickets for that long ago. BTW, I haven't taken pics recently, but I have mounted up this rear wing: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS475

Semi Pro,
I definitely understand where you are coming from and I don't disagree. But who custom builds and spin-balances RC driveshafts? If I knew of a place to do this for me, I would have gone that route. But as with so many things on this build, I've been left to figure it out and hope for the best :lol:

Rc alloys I believe can make you a custom shaft. Contact bill@rcalloys.com you will have to run cups on both sides and make sure you measure center of pin to center of pin. Make sure you tell about the small ball ends also. What size are the output shafts? and how long of a shaft do you need. If they are 5mm ,UE 5mm hardened cups would be perfect if they fit and you could use the big 8mm end shafts.

Yeah, I looked into piecing together my own dogbone setup, but the outputs are all 4mm. That makes it tough to find parts.

Made a few passes and the rear driveshaft is surviving...but the transmission input shaft sheared in half. :cry:

Too much power!!

At what % of throttle do you get these failures?

I'm just touching WOT. I may be getting into it too fast, but I only have so much range. This one broke at 70 mph. I'm starting to think some of the issues are the "pinion-on-pinion" setup I'm running. I might have to try going back to a plastic spur and metal pinion. Right now, I am running mod 1 gears (21/25). Maybe the small diameter and big teeth are causing too much vibration or something.

Any updates on this project?

What happened? So many projects just die off :(

Such a shame. This project really looked like it was going somewhere.

The range issue could have been solved so easily...

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Ch_Tx_Rx_.html

This would give plenty of range.

I'd also substitute Traxxas' Fiesta arms to give less frontal area but, hey :yes:

Cheerz!

Rootz