Hey,

I just measured the chassis and it's 2.5mm thick. It may actually be 2.54mm as that's 1/10" and well losi have this weird fascination with the imperial measurement system.

Those silly Americans and their imperial measuring system... :lol:

Well thats good then...I think Hobby City has 2.5mm CF.

Well i made some of the lower plates and it is becoming a little difficult for a few reasons. Also they didn't turn out well.

I am now thinking of just sending off the CAD to the place where i got my CF from as they do CNC cutting.

Hopefully it won't cost too much.

Hobby city has carbon fiber??! Link please because i dont see any??!?

Well i haven't made an update for a while and here's the progress.

I remade the lower plates. I now have everything ready to cut the alu angle to make my motor mount out of.

To mount the battery trays this time i have tapped the lower plate so that there is no need for a nut (8) on every mounting screw.

Also i recieved my other LST XXL. and i have installed a TD racing motor mount. This Car will have a 1717 motor and maybe 6s.

In my project LST i am running a MMMXL esc as it allows me to do heaps of stuff i couldn't before.

Hopefully this made sense as i am tired and i'm not sure what i am actually saying.

yeh...we understand mate........:sleep::sleep::sleep:

Update
 

Well today i made the motor mount. Pics later tonight. To make the larger hole i used a countersinking bit and it worked very well. It was done in about 2 mins. I then had some issues with my dremel but i did manage to finish the motor mount.

WIth the dremel...i need some help.

So i was using my dremel and all of a sudden there was a grinding noise and it lost heaps of power. Since then i have puller it apart to make sure nothing was binding the rotor but it's all good.

When i start it nothing happens till i either try a few more times or i give it a bit of a start. Then it will go to about 1000rpm with the full speed setting. There is also the grinding noise. I am thinking there is something wrong with the motor. Also it builds up ALOT of heat.. After about 2 mins of use i can barely hold it cause of the heat.

Can anyone help me as without my dremel things ill be heaps harder the finish this motor mounting system.

Thanks


-----------


As promised here are some pics.

To make the motor mount slots for the motor i drilled out some holes then filled it by hand till it was good. The slots are big enough for M4 screws.

The white piece of paper in one of the photos will be replaced with some alu and will be screwed into the motor mount. This will give it just a little bit more strength.

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...P1040818-1.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...P1040819-1.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040820.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...P1040821-1.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...P1040823-1.jpg


------------



Here's my other LST XXL - one red and one blue.

So far i haven't done much. I have installed a TD racing motor mount with a CC 1717

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...P1040824-1.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040825.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...P1040826-1.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040827.jpg

Check the brushes, they are made to be serviced and come out easy. They should be more than 1/4inch long.

Just realised i haven't posted any pics of it in a running state.

My bad... I'll just copy them from the original thread.

=======

Just installed the MMMXL in the XXL. It is held in by 4 screws. The metal plate is screwed into the upper CD plate.

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040802.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040803.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...P1040806-1.jpg
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...P1040807-1.jpg

==========

Heres some of the logging from the first proper run. It wasn't long but it gave me an idea of stuff i need to sort out.

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/firstrun.png

Yeh - last night i had the whole thing apart and i think it needs new brushes. The brushes were sparking heaps and i think that's it. I'll try and get some new ones this week but after tomorrow i wont need it for a while as i should be getting my mini mill tomorrow.

Though before i get my mini mill i need a new bench to support the mill.

I just came across this build, very nice! That Mamba XL looks good on that LST.

-JB

Update
 

Hopefully tomorrow i'll be able to get a few more laps with this. Last time i did about 3 laps before the steering ball link popped out. This happened at the exact same time as my pinion came loose. SO when i lost both steering and throttle i thought the worst. This was also while i was running the mamba XL.

I have now epoxied the steering link in so hopefully it'll stay in. I have also gone to an ez-run/leopard 150a esc. This is because i was planning to use the Mamba XL in my truggy for the data logging but i haven't put it in yet.

I have also pretty much finished my new setup. All i need to do is make the motor mount supports, make a new upper CD plate and make the hole fro the CD in the lower plates.

I think that's it for now.

very nice, what motor you got in there, looks like a Tekin?

yep, ATM i am running a tekin 1350. but once i get my new setup up and running i will either run a CC 1518 or a 1717 or maybe a leopard 4082 1030kv motor.

The main thing with this new setup is that i can run pretty much whatever motor i want.

-----

Just a quick question for everyone.

Do you think i should make a rear motor support. i am a little worried about the motor coming loose or the motor mount bending but if i have a rear motor support neither of these should happen. So what are everyones thoughts??

l would do it just in case anything would happen, better to be safe than sorry, would you recomend a tekin 4030 2650kV? atm l have the speed passion 3.5t motor and l want my buggy to be faster, what would be the best motor

Just had a look at this again. Just letting you know i race with a CC 1520 in my truggy on 4s lipo. I've just geared up up pretty far. (MBX6Te w/ 46t spur, 23t pinion) I don't really care about the runtimes as i can last the quals (10mins) and in the mains (20mins) i would have to do a battery change anyway.

if i were to buy the motors again i would've gone with something other than my tekins. Also i'm not too keen on the RX8 esc.

Personally i would go with a CC 1515 2200kv in a buggy. everyone at my local track is running one of them (well pretty much everyone) but i don't think anyone's running a 1512 or equiv.

atm my top speed on my 1/8 buggy is 99km/h and its just not quick enough for me, lve got the 150A xerun ESC and 2 3s 8000mha, lve looked everywere for the quickest motor

I'd say get a 2200kv motor. If they are able to take a MT to 100+km/h then it should be able to take a buggy far past that.

lm looking at getting the Tekin T8 2650kV

Got bored...

So i finished the new setup. I can now run it but i haven't made the motor mount support or the motor support.

But i can use it if i want.

It may not look the best but it works. I am planning to put some thermal paste between the motor and mount as well as in between some of the plates.

just thought i might update this. The following stuff is once again copied from the original thread.

---------

I have now actually finished the new setup. It is ready to be installed onto the car. It may not be the prettiest but it'll work (or at least i hope it will...).

However. If/when/whatever i get a mill i will probs redo all these plates so that they are very precise to about the 0.02mm (i know, talk about anal) then i'll be happy. Also i can then do lots of stuff with the plates that i couldn't before.

If i do use a mill to redo the plate i will also redo the 'LST XXL' on the bottom of the lower plate but it should look about 100 million times cooler.

======================

Just finished getting my other (blue) LST up and running. I am running a feigao 580L 1643kv motor. It is about the same diameter (minus fins) but is a little shorter. For the ESC i am currently running my Mamba XL as it was out and easy to install. Servo: HS-7955TG

=======================

o over the past two nights i have finished LD's old LST and also installed my new setup into my original LST. Everything looks good and i've also made a rear motor brace. It loos like 5hi+ but it works and i couldn't be screwed being in the shed for all of the night being eaten alive by mozzies.

I will be running a leopard 4082 1030kv motor on 4s lipo with a leopard (hobbywing) 150a esc. it is geared 23/46 so i should get about 40MPH. ATM i have to run a 46t spur as i have removed the upper big plate of the lower section (if anyone understands that, well done) so untill i get my dremel working again i can't cut the groove easily.

(anyone know where to get the brushes for a dremel in brisbane [not bunnings])

Also gave bluey (LD's LST) a run and all was good. It was on 6s lipo and the motor was getting hot so i might go up a tooth on the pinion and go down to 4s lipo.

=======================

Raced my red LST today. It was friggen awesome, i didn't have a clean run at all but once everything is sorted out it should be sweet. For the times i was racing it was great. The steering is pretty crap but i'm learning to slide it into the corners. It's odd, you have to go too fast into a corner to make it around. If you go too slow it's difficult to get around the corner.

After about 8 mins of running (longest continuous run) the motor was at 180oF and the esc was at 120oF so i need to gear up. The problem is that i am currently running the stock diff gears (low ratio about 3.2) with a 46t spur and 23t pinion and it's undergeared. Other than that i had no other issues with the setup but one of my batts disconnected itself from the deans in the final but the transponder wasn't working anyway.

So, failures for today, steering link popped off (diff-wheel), rear centre driveshaft grub screw cam loose and cvd joint failed, front driveshaft grub screw came loose, rear driveshaft grub screw came loose, steering link came off (servo-steering link) and the battery screwed itself.

So i think i'll rebuild this sometime before the next race using locktite everywhere it's needed and i'll try to fix the steering but i don't really like my chances.

====

Also gave my blue LST a run when the red one was out of action, it was good but it was terrible to drive as the tires had no traction at all and i shredded the rear diff, though after the short period of running the motor was very hot, i'm a little ashamed to say this but one reading i got was about 200oF while the other was about 195oF

==========================

I think i might get the blue lst back into working order and get everything good then i might sell it. I just don't really need a basher ATM. I might even sell it with the old syle of lower plate so that if someone ants to they can buy the stuff needed to make it into the V1 of the custom LSTe.

===========================

Just a little update.

Swapped out the leopard motor with a CC 1717 as the leopard was getting hot with a 23t/46t but i do have a 25t pinion if i go back to the leopard.

I have also decided to make a mount for the esc and RX. This will simply be a strip of aluminium that will run from the front of the upper CD mounting holes to where the old RX box went. This will make the ESC in the direct flow of air plus it should be easier to work on. The RC box i am thinking of using is from the old Hyper 7's/ST's. this RX box is very big and will be perfect for this area.

Also i painted the two smaller lower plates and the motor mount black the other day. It was only lexan paint as i was bored but i may regret it as it won't allow the same amount of heat transfer.

Also i have gone to a HS-7955 servo as i have installed a MGT servo saver and the only one i could get was for hitec servos. However this has made a screw sit quite high so i think i will be buying the losi HD front lower skid plate as it should protect the servo a little more. Still, if i felt really inclined i could actually make a new servo hole that would do away with some more issues i have with the LST.

Also i am thinking of getting the lower plates, upper CD plate and possibly the chassis CNC'd by a place her in brisbane but i'm not sure of they have 6061-t6 alu and how much it'll be.

========================

lso, just thought i might mention this, i have decided (for now) to keep the blue LST as a spares truck. I might tear it down this weekend so that i can make all the parts more portable.

Also, i should be getting my new dremel tomorrow. I tried new brushes which didn't help, called dremel who pretty much said i'll have to buy a new one as it's out of warranty. This should allow me to make the parts a little better as before i was using a jigsaw, angle grinder, hacksaws and files.

=========================

while getting some stuff from HK i decided to get a 2.5mm thick 300x100 sheet of CF. To my surprise it seems to be good quality CF. I'll probs make the two smaller lower plates out of this CF so they wont be load bearing but should reduce some weight.

===========================

So,

i raced this on sunday. I was hoping it would be an awesome day but it wasn't. All throughout the day i was having issues. I think i only finished one race out of about 5. Throughout the day the motor kept coming down on the spur making the mesh seriously tight to the point that it felt like the drag break was enabled and at 100%. This was with the 1717 so i may go back to the leopard motor (another reason later). Also i was using a RC-M slipperential. It is basically a CD with a slipper built in to it. I'm not sure what was happening but it was loosening through the day. So i think i may just go back to a normal CD that has no slipper. Not sure if i mentioned this before but i am not using the stock LST servo savers as they are crap. So i bought a MGT servo saver as people have said they are great. Well it made my steering terrible and just fell apart during the day. So ATM i am using a straight link between the servo and steering. This will mean that i will have to replace certain parts more frequently but unless i completely re-do the steering i cannot think of any other way of doing it.

Also as mentioned above i was running a CC 1717 motor and the MMMXL esc. This setup was good an neither were getting hot but my runtimes were seveerly reduced compared to any other setup i ran. I don't actually think i could last the main (12 mins) with 5200mah.

So i am now thinking of going back to the leopard motor, with the MMMXL esc and possibly getting it setup for dual 4s 4000mah lipo's.

i am also thinking of making my own battery 'boxes' as i do not like the flux ones. I have the basic design but am wondering if i should make as much out of CF (but still use some Alu) or just make the whole thing out of alu.

Also, should i remake the upper and lower plates out of CF or leave them as is.\

I would love to race this but ATM reliability is an issue that i cannot overlook. The previous time i raced it i still had issues but it was wonderful to drive, so should i persevere with it or just give up and race my ERBE.

Sorry for the long post and i appreciate any advice/criticism.

Great project, but you seem to have lots of bad luck with small things. I would use locktite more. On the motor mounting screws, and on the pinion grub-screw. Out of all your motors and esc's I would use the leopard 1000kv on 8s with the MMMXL, so you get what you paid for from that esc. Then have the 1717 on 6s with the MMM in the XXL with TDR mount.

Just my two cents or whatever.

TG

i think most of the locktite issues were from when i was originally putting it together and didn't use locktite as i thought i would still have to pull it apart.

I don't really like using locktite on the motor mounting screws. not sure why but never done it. i think most of the issues with the motor coming down onto the spur were due to the washer i was using. It was far too big for the screw but was the only one i had and that may've cause it. I think this was the issue as i didn't have that issue with the leopard motor that didn't use a washer due to the screw type.

i recently bought some turnigy nanotechs (4s 4000mah) to use in parallel but i guess i could use them in series. but i plan on racing this and i'm not sure if 4000mah will last 12 mins.

Also, i have torn down my blue LST. I did this as it didn't handle the way my original one did and the previous owner did some weird things with it. Also i shredded the rear diff and ATM i CBF'd ordering a new one.



Also, earlier today i made my new battery boxes. These are about the same weight as the flux ones but should be heaps better and easier to use. Plus this means that i can go back to using the MMMXL without it annoying me.

Not sure if i mentioned this here but i have gone back to the leopard motor and the leopard/hobbywing 150a esc.

just spent around the last 2 hours changing over the chassis rails, the ones i have now are not stripped and i have gone back to the imperial screws. For the load bearing screws i have gone back to the imperial ones as they give a better 'bight' into the plastic, this is mainly because the rails have already been tapped for the imperial screws.

why of why can't losi go to all metric screws. (just kidding but seriously)