ok cool

All the new RPM Maxx arms are 3.3 ready..

So they are jsut like 2.5's but they are "precut" to fit the 3.3 knuckles and sliders right?

Yes, Correct

thanks!

gmaxx360;

Can you please empty your PM box..? i've got an answer for your last PM;

Yeah, you might try 15K in front and 10K in the rear to begin with.

k sorry

I was taking off the stock arms to get ready for the RPM ones and I noticed that the rear right CVD is slightly bent! :031:

So I might as well get the 3.3 sliders :rolleyes:


Josh :028:

CVD's? can it be that your pillow balls are turned in a tad too deep? observe them when you push in the shocks.. you'll notice the space between the cup and the bone will get smaller and smaller.

looks like you could have a new option as well.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4988

Ok i got rid of 5 messages so that should free up some room. i cant believe there is a limit.

reason is quite simple; on my mailserver with no limit users have got over 5 Gb of crap..

What's up with all this "off-topic" stuff you guys throw in this thread? I can respect your position as a moderator so I'll let this one go :005:

So do you think the new Traxxas shafts will be strong enough for the RPM Arms/ Monster Maxx combo??

Josh :028:

Believe me.. this one is pretty on-topic, considering my nature.. :p it doesn't say anything about my anteater costume and my socks.. (Don't get me started.. ;) )

No one has them yet, so 0 experience is available. I can't tell you a decent word about them, i'd love to get a set though, to do some testing on my 3.3 e-maxx.

Let me know how the work once you get them on your Maxx.

Anteater costume and socks? I don't think I want to hear this! :005:

Alright guys I picked up some money from Christmas and now I'm looking towards a shopping spree for the E-Maxx. This is what I had and mind and be free to make corrections towards it.

• Tekno RC wing mount with whatever wing
• RPM shock towers but not sure what knuckles to get
•*GorillaMaxx G3 battery straps
• I don't know which chassis braces to get so advice needed
•*Probably strobe slipper
•*hardened steel ideler
• Pro-line 23mm hexes with 23mm standard size wheels
• Pro-Line badlands

That about raps it up...

Get some shocktowers from DUH engineering. (www.duhengineering.com)

The flm chassis braces are nice. But i would just get the whole chassis for 90$. Id get the dace adaptors over the pro-line. If your bashing the badlands are fine.

I like the flm aluminum shock towers.
Many adjustment holes, Wing mount, And strong to.

Yea forgot about those.. 24 shock mounting positions.. :)

Yea. I would go with:

FLM shock towers
Mugen Wing mount
Proline High Downforce wing
Dace 23mm hubs
Proline 0 offset 23mm Velocity rims
Proline Badlands MT tires
Strobe Slipper
RC-M Idler gear
and Sylvester is right, I would choose the FLM chassis. There warranty is awesome. But personally, I would choose the G2 CF chassis. Thats 2x more though...

You know the DUH shock towers can use mugen wing mounts. But science the flm shock tower mounts have so many holes can you make them use the wing mounts too.

The FLM are designed for the Mugen wing mounts as well...

I also need to pick up a set of UE Diff Cases to put the 7.5 Diffs in. I talked to Mike and he said he could sell me a complete set.

EDIT: Can anyone get me a link to a mugen wing mount? I can't seem to find one.

cool your are refering to the ones with all the mounting postitions right. How are these towers (FLM) are they good or bad are they heavy do you recommend them over the DUH ones which do you recommend. how do these towers hold up.

Imo, the flms would be a better choice because of the warranty, the weight is similar to a rpm shocktower. Hmm i am not sure where they sell mugen mounts, cant help you there, Josh. Sorry.

yeah do you think a LHS would stock them. and do you think the ti shock towers would be alot lighter or not buy much compared to the flm ones also you said the flm ones are light almost like the rpm ones. so this means they are not much heaver than stock.

I doubt my LHS would have them. The owner is really, well how should I put this, stupid. He overcharges everything. He doesn't know what RPM is, or the difference between a Revo slider or a Maxx shaft.

I might just have to buy the Tekno. Is there anything wrong with it?

no i am not saying at your LHS i want some to i just want to know if at most LHS's they should have them in or can get them. Are they common to find do most LHS's carry mugen parts and cars

Not alot carry Mugen parts...Just get them from Amainhobbies.com if Mike doesn't have them...Also, it says on RC-M that the FLM towers only weight 24 grams I believe, so there very light. Yes, I would recommend them over the DUH Engineering towers. Josh, don't get the UE diffs cases...Get the FLM hybrid bulkheads. They incorporate the diff case into the bulks and makes for easier maintance as well as a stronger design. And there only $140...I think there the best way to go...

The 24 grams my have been for old ones. I think the new may be a touch heavier.
But the newer are stronger I think and more adjustments.

thanks guys

I already have a set of ACNCM bulkheads so I wasn't loooking to buy a whole new bulkhead setup. I'm just going to go with UE diff cases for now. I know that the diff cases on the FLM are already designed into the bulkheads which makes it a lot easier to take apart.

Josh :028:

IMO the acncm bulks are made out of a very soft aluminum and tend to break, if i were you id sell them off and get hybrids.

I've come to a conclusion. This will be on hold for a while since I'm in real need of a 1:1. So my Christmas money is mostly going towards a 1986 CJ-7 Jeep.

Thank you all.

Josh :028:

Im trying to duplicate this mod, but Im not real sure if Im grasping all the different parts to do it. I put together a shopping cart, someone who is SURE, would you mind checking out the contents and telling me if its correct?

Thanks,Joel

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wto0149p

It shows the shopping cart is empty. :032:

Dude, the link doesnt work. It links to my shopping cart. Try listing the part numbers.

I can tell you you need the 3.3 arms, sliders and knuckles. Just get them on ebay. It will be way cheaper.

This post tells you the parts you need. I did this right when the 3.3 came out. Dont know if I was the first, but one of the first.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...4&postcount=46

This is the whole thread where I was trying to figure out how to do it.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3588
This should be what you looking for.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wto0149p

LXMJG8 Traxxas Drive Shaft Assembly

LXLMV7 RPM Axle Carriers & Oversized Bearings Black Revo(wasnt sure if this was what is being called the "knuckle"


LXMZT1 RPM A-Arms Upper/Lower White 2.5R/3.3


LXMJE0 Traxxas Turnbuckles/Toe Links Front (2)


LXMJE1 Traxxas Turnbuckles/Toe Links Rear (2)

Looks good.

Youll also need this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHGB7&P=ML
and this
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHGC9&P=7