HE HE HE! beat you to the post! JK!

What is a good indication of a "cold" solder joint? Just curious. I probably know, but want to make sure! LOL

Yeah, I had to do some editing! LOL, can you tell?:005:

Newe,

A "Cold Solder Joint" is cloudy looking and dull. May even have a rough surface texture. A well executed solder joint is shiny and smooth. Pictures would be helpful I know, but is that at all helpful ?

Also, two wires connected via a cold solder joint can be yanked apart fairly easily. With a good solder joint, the wire will break before the joint does.

Makes sense. How is a cold solder joint obtained? Too much heat? Not enough heat? Both?

Some of my connections look cloudy, but are very strong. Thsi usually happens to me with deans. I'm almost thinking the type of solder used here as well. My solder is not always "shiny", but my system runs really well right now....
Suppose it would help using the damn edit button!

Use a quality "Rosin Core" solder. Lack of heat is one very common cause. Movement of the joint as it cools is another. Impurities from a dirty solder iron tip can add to the problems.

Make sure to occasionally wipe off the tip on a damp sponge or even a clean shop towel.

You probably already know this, but there is a sticky on soldering...

yup, used that the first time i soldered my first dean! hehehe, these are jsut dumb questions incase I'm missing something here. I'm pretty good at soldering, but never hurts to ask...thanks guys!

The sharing of info & ideas (not to mention the collective brainpower) on this site makes it unusual and exceptional! I'm proud to be an active part of the forums here!

+2! World of wealth and knowledge here!

When I solder, I'm usually pretty liberal about using flux. Not crazy with it, but not too sparing either. I've had joints that were not shiny and were not cold joints. I think that this is caused by not using enough flux, as when you happen to have to re-solder something. Flux serves to help the solder flow and it removes the impurities from the solder joint. I also typically use silver solder intended for electronics. It adds very little resistance and is VERY strong.

Well, I got my Feigao 7XL in today. It's a pretty hefty piece of motor weighing in at just over 13oz. There were a couple of things that really reflected the motor's price point. The first was that the kv rating of the motor was written on a label in marker. Other than the kv rating and the size of the motor, there's really no way to tell what it is. I hope I got what I ordered. The second was the lack of a flat machined into the shaft to accomodate the set screw of the pinion. Is this normal or did I get the wrong motor?

As for the Neu debate, I'm going with the 1515 1Y. It's just plain more efficient and the kv rating will put me in the range of 33,000 rpms. To tell the truth, if they had a 1515 with a 2400kv rating, I'd probably go with that, but I think the next jump is to the 2700kv motor and the current draw @ 10v (I think that's what the number meant) almost doubles from the 2200kv motor.

I just hope that Castle doesn't sit on the firmware revision too long. Aside from the fact that extreme cogging can be a PITA, it could also be very embarassing.

I've never gotten a motor (besides the Castle motors) that had a flat spot on the output shaft. Just put one on there yourself. My preference for doing it is a Dremel.

The NUE does not have a flat either. FYI

Yeah, I'm learning as I go. :)

What do your guys think would be a good all around pinion for this setup.

MM controller on 4S lipo
Neu 1515 1Y
46T spur

I was thinking a 14T. I just want to order a few before I find out that they aren't REALLY hardened and I wind up killing a few of them while I wait for the really hardened one to be in stock.

Man, just as I was gonna say go for a 1512... j/k

Seriously IF there was a 2200-2400kv 1512 I would say do that, but it's a big jump from 2000 to 2600... too bad cause you do save a few bucks and a couple oz. It sure won't hurt to have the bigger motor for running in the heat of summer... are you in Texas?

14T is what I was thinking too... should put you right in the 35-40 range just like a fast nitro.

When you dremel a flat spot on the shaft don't forget to cover the motor/holes with a rag to keep out any metal bits.

Ditto on the software update... I want it SOON.

glassdoctor,

I'm in (or just outside of) New Orleans. It's hot AND humid. 90 can feel like 110.

Man, I do have to admit that I've been struggling over the whole 1512 thing. I've read a bunch of your posts and you seem to be having good luck with yours. You're getting cool temps and good runtimes. Where I'm getting hung up is on the whole rpm thing. The only logical choice in the 1512 line is the 2.5d, although I do find the idea of the 2d to be appealing. The only problem is that I don't think that my mounting situation is going to allow me to run a pinion much smaller than a 12, so the 2d is out. That leaves the 2.5d. I understand you can get some speed out of it, but you've gotta sacrifice some zip to get that speed with a 2000kv motor. I don't know what your track is like, but mine is pretty tight. The longest straight is 160' (which is why I need to legs), but the rest of it is pretty technical.

I used to motor selector and plugged in all of my parameters and it seems that it puts the 1512 out of the game completely when I increase the weight of the buggy from 8 to 8.5lbs. It appears that, according to the motor selector, about 8 lbs. is the limit for the 1512 motor before it starts getting stresses. I just figure that the 1515 will be able to do everything the 1512 can by gearing. What concerns me is that it is not unusual for me to run my buggy on my track and wind up a 1lb of mud stuck to it. Over the course of a race, or a couple of races, that factor alone could cause the 1512 to overheat. I'm thinking that the 1515 might just shrug it off.

I'm hoping that my pinions get here tomorrow. That way I can see what the mesh is going to be like with the various pinions. I don't even know that I'll have room for the Neu. It might just wind up being Feigao all the way.

BTW, what you do think of Hacker motors? I was just on their website and they are blowing out overstocks of the C50-9XL for $240 and the C50-11L for $195.

Extreme cogging can be more than embariasing and a PITA. When it happens the current spikes thru the roof and you can actually fry the ESC. I fried my MM when it cogged a Neu motor and I didnt get off the throttle fast enough.

I agree. The software update cant come soon enough.

jhautz is right for sure... never keep grabbing throttle if it's coggin bad and won't go. I smoked my eagle tree trying that... desoldered the wires. MM survived that time, but probably only because there was a weaker link in the chain.

Oh yeah... NewOrleans.. it's never hot there right? :)

1515 1Y does look to be the can't miss choice.... sounds good to me. Like I said here somewhere... there isn't just one "right" choice. Both L and XL size motors can work, and work well. And within reason, gearing will make it into what you want.

I think the tiebreaker is the hot climate you are in.... bigger motor is probably a good idea.

Stick a fan on the motor and esc when it's hot and I think you will be golden.

But you really should pick up a Kyosho plastic gear adn see if you can make it work... probably just need to use a different size bearing on that side if it's different than the Turmoil. It's a Mugen clone I think right? I'm not sure about those....

glassdoctor,

I don't know how old you are, but do you remember and movie with Robin Williams called "Good Morning Vietnam?" That part where he's doing his radio bit and making jokes about how hot it is. I could have sworn he was talking about the weather down here. It gets hot. In fact, I got to a point that I was running my nitro engines at 280 because I got tired of loosing the performance from having to run them so rich to keep them cool. I'd break 'em in to run hot and just kept bearings on hand.

Anyway, what do you think about the Hacker motors. If they are a good motor, I'd pick up an 11L (if it's better than the Feigao) and see how that runs. For the price, it can't be beat. Here I go again, talking in circles.

I think I'm trying to hard to make sure that I get the right motor. I'm making the switch to electric in the buggy because it's supposed to make my like easier. I don't want to wind up with a bench with a dozen motors on it because I couldn't find the right one. I just sold six nitro engines and threw six or so away.

Now you see this. This is how brain fried I am over this motor thing. Now I'm looking at the Hacker L can. If I go that route, I might as well get the 1512. Really, the whole cogging thing has me a bit worried. The Hackers are two poles and should run well with the MM. I'm just not confident that Castle has this issue on the front burner. Months ago, when I first got my Mamba Max 7700 system, they told me that they were working on a software rev limiter. That's why I got the 7700 to run on 3S Lipo. I thought, great...I can get insane and protect the motor with the software. Well, it's been a while and still no rev limiter. I could take quite a while for the "fix" on the cogging issue to come out.

The oddest thing about the cogging issue is that I emailed Castle about doing an emaxx build, before I decided on the buggy. They told me that none of their motors would work, and recommended that I use a Neu motor with their controller. I think it was the 1512. He said it was what he had in his emaxx. If he does, he should be more than aware of the problem.

Have you tried programming your MM on the 'puter? Did you play around with the timing settings, in conjunction the startup power and punch control settings? Since four pole motors are more sensitive to timing, I'm wondering if tweaking the MM could at least minimize the problem.

What settings are you running on your MM?

Ive talked to CC a bunch of times about this. They are aware of the issue and at this time dont recomend running anything other than their motor with the MM. They also told me that 2 pole motors would be better and that 4 pole would be worse. I confirmed this for myself with my own testing.

The 4 pole cogging issues are not a secret and if you talk to someone there who knows whats up they will tell you too. They wouldnt be working on an update if there wasnt a problem.

It is weird though. I had a guy from CC at the iHobby show tell me that the Neu would be a good match for the MM also. He probably wasnt really up to speed.

Unless I'm mistaken, I think it was Shawn Palmer that told me that. I've found that they really open up with the info once they get the idea that you at least have some sort of a clue and that you understand that what you are doing is out of spec and not covered by warranty.

I don't know. Perhaps a "wait and see" posture would be in order at this point.

In fact, for the price of the Neu, I could get a rediculous L can motor for short speed runs at the parking lot, an high turn XL motor for tight tracks where I won't need more that 30 mph or so, and run the 7XL as a goto for all around running; and not have to deal with the cogging issues. After running a few different motors, I'll have an idea of what I'm looking for and what to buy. I'll then sell them off at half price and just get the Neu. At that point, I'll just have to hope that Castle has solved the problem.

Oh, I meant to ask. My motor came with this REALLY crappy wiring. I mean, ugly stuff. The wires seems as if someone went nuts tinning them. I can hardly bend them. The strands are really thick too. Is there anyway that I can get in there and rewire the motor?

Those thick strands are probably the direct coil wires. Usually, they wind the coils with fairly thick gauge varnish-covered (for insulation) wire and simply bring the ends out to hook up the wires. Then, they apply some type of solvent to the end to remove the insulating layer and tin them. They are stiff because the wires are thick and are solid (rather than stranded like noodle wire). It might seem like a hack job, but has less resistance than attaching looser wires internally; one less connection.

They will bend, but since they are solid, I would try to bend them only once. If you bend them back and forth the wire will eventually break.

Good movie.. I'm class of 91...

The stiff wires are normal.... some companies make them a littel more "pretty" but it's just the way it is. Even the Neus have the stiff wire, but it's neater and has black shrink instead of fat rainbow colored shrink.

The Hacker are a little better than the Feigaos but very similar. I think the biggest difference is quality control... tighter mfg tolerances. Right now I would pass on Hacker and just run the Feigao knock-offs... unless you get a killer deal on them. How much are these Hackers???

Shawn P has told me before that the Hackers are not impressive in efficiency etc compared to a Neu or Pletty.. and that the Lehners were somewhere in the middle.

Yes Shawn recomended the Neu... they still think the Neu are incredible motors, that nothing out there is better, more efficient. But I think they really didn't have a lot of actual bashing experience with them... more "lab" time... and #'s.

And I recall not having much problem with cogging when I first ran my buggy... didn't happen very often. It seems worse now. That's actually something I'm a bit concerned about... do the MM slowly crap out? Caps get toasted?

I would still reomend a Neu... but I can't blame you for waiting until the cogging is fixed. Why not just run the 7XL for now... get a feel for it and then you might know better where to go from there.

Oh... as for those wires... I have taken pliers and a dremel to them to make them fit the 4mm gold connectors I use.

have any of u guys tried this..

go to the throttle curve and pull it tward the bottm right and top right corner?? when i did this with my mm 5700kv in my pede it stopped cogging, i put a point at 30 and pulled it twards the botton right hand corner a lil, and put my puch controll at 50% wth start up timing at low middle or high, and its coggless

mayby something to try idk..

That should have the same effect as a more gentle throttle finger, or negative exp on the radio. I haven't done it with the MM software, no. But if it somehow helps, I will do it for sure.

BTW, I have never seen cogging with the MM motors... only with the Neu.

You know, you can save those settings to a file. Then open the file in a text editor, and post it here. Then, anyone who wants to try it can simply paste the text into their file and import it into the MM. The file does say not to edit by hand, but this does work since I've tried it. :)

thats cool!!! but idk, its on my moms computer because the stupid internet is a pita and my dad doesn want to fik it lol but i dont care...

but i will have to try that sometime

glassdoctor,

After what you said about the Hackers, they weren't such a deal after all. If you are interested, I mentioned the prices in my last post. They are on Hacker's site under "clearance."

I got my buggy running. I don't have any 4S lipos yet. I don't know what's up with Maxamps. Second order in a row that didn't ship in 48 hours as advertised. Anyway, I ran it on 3S with the 7XL. If there is better out there, I'd rather not know about it right now so that I can enjoy my blissful ignorance. It's a killer setup. I'm running a 14T pinion. It isn't really fast, but man does it take off. I can't wait to get it on the track.

I also picked up an 8L. I know it's going to run hot and I know I won't be able to run races with it. I just got it for the parking lot stuff. Nothing but short sprints and then a break. It should do nicely for that sort of stuff.

Thanks again for all of the help.

Oh, class of '83 here. Boy do I feel old. LOL.

If I was you I would just run the 7XL on 4s for a while and see how it goes before spending another $280 on a motor. Unless you know you'll get end up getting a neu and can't wait or you want to sell the 7XL as hardly used.
I have one in an E-maxx (7XL), it's pretty fast and does rolling wheel stands easily in second gear.
Heat might be an issue with it in 15 minute races on a hot day, I'm not sure.
I've only had mine a month and it's been 90 degrees plus every time I've used it, the hottest it got was 155 with 12 cells and 51/13 gearing (I think it might be under geared by a tooth or 2 though), with the Rc-monster heatsink and no fan, running for 8-10 minutes. So with a lighter car, smaller/lighter wheels,correct gearing and fan it might be ok.
7XL shoud be fast enough to do 35-40mph in a buggie IMO. Heat after 15 minutes on a hot day would be my only concern, but then I don't have batteries that will last 15 minutes so I couldn't say for sure.

I agree w/ Patrik. Run what you got for while and get a feel for what you like and dont like about the current setup. then you can make a more educated decision as to what you want in your permanent high end motor. And by then who knows... CC my even have the MM software update out and the cogging isseus fixed.



BTW: This is POST #1000 :)

I would just shoot Austin an email. I'm sure he has a reason.

I did email Austin about the first order. If I recall, it took over 10 days to get it. He said that they've been behind since Christmas, but are working to catch up. I suppose that they are still running behind. Although I would have liked my order to have been shipped quicker, I really didn't mean my statement to be interpreted as a complaint. I do have to admit that I opted for the optional 12 gauge wire, so I'd imagine that I would have gotten my order more quickly if I had ordered the packs with the standard wiring. The guys at Maxamps have been first rate to deal with and their product is great for the price.

I totally understand and I know that you were not complaining....it comes with the territory I think. For the most part, RC guys are just plain demanding and are a very tough crowd!!! LOL, me included!:005:

OK, I just had to revive this thread. I'm turning blue waiting for Castle to release a fix for the MM/Neu issue, so it's looking like it's going to be a Lehner. Since the Lehner's run cooler and more efficiently, I belive that a Lehner 1940/8 will run similarly to a Feigao 7XL. Am I correct in this assumption?

I was more than happy with my Feigaos, I have four now, but an email from Mike got me thinking again. If I didn't misunderstand him, the Lehner will run MUCH cooler. Not just a few degrees, but significantly cooler. Summer is getting ready to hit down in the swamp land and I'm starting to wonder if the Feigao will be able to stand a 30 minute main.

Anyway, what do you guys (Lehner oweners) think about the 1940/8? Will it perform similarly to the Feigao 7XL?

Thanks.

What part of the country are you in? If it's swamp, it's gotta be somewhere in the southeast...

I'm in Louisiana, near New Orleans. It gets pretty hot and humid over here and no beaches to run to. LOL