Thanks, most of it comes naturally.

Just fyi - I ended up doing the same thing. This time instead of breaking the servo-saver arm, the 4mm ball end screw sheered right off during a cartwheel (Also snapped the front upper arm turnbuckle). I agree with all that running the larger wheels and tires may be a bit too much for the buggy - I think that is why my current draw went through the roof too. Well the spare parts bag has 10 ball end screws in it, so if I break too many more I may go back to the smalle wheels - Not like there is really a downside to it - lower CofG and still just as fast with a small gearing change.

(Sorry - not trying to hijack thread)

One other thought - with the RCM extended chassis I installed Mike's Al drag link - I wonder if it might be smart to put the plastic one back there to have something plastic to absord some of the stress.

I also loosened the servo saver spring screw a little bit.

My CRT.5 came with the new turnbuckles and a softer ssaver spring. Had a note saying the original was way too hard. I thought it was because those peskly little mid size servos were stripping easily on impacts, but I'm running a 130oz full metal gear twin bb servo with an alloy arm so I thought itd be sweet.

After reading all this though, maybe I should use that softer spring? are any of you who are having problems runnning the soft replacement spring?

I always thought the saver was a little tight. Before the extended chassis I was running a Hitec HS-5245MG servo, but never had a stripping problem. After the conversion I threw in a Hitec HS-5625MG servo (which looks to be the same as yours on 6v). To be honest though - i've never stripped a servo in my life except for on a crappy Losi mLST.

I think we're just pushing the limit by sticking the truck and 30 series wheels and tires on there instead of the much lighter buggy tires.

Oh well - my amainhobbies order came in today and I have 1- ball-end screws to destroy :wink: before making the next decision on what to try.

I've been running the plastic drag link with the alum servo saver for the same reason you are thinking. However, I've been having the problem with the plastic link working loose after just a few minutes of driving. I think I'll try the aluminum one with some loctite. I've had one really hard crash with the alum servo saver and it broke a plastic ball cap on a steering link instead of any of the servo saver parts.

I don't think the softer saver springs helps with servo saver parts. It only protects the servo. The saver parts break when the steering reachs max turn, but is still under heavy load (crash while turning). At this point the spring won't even be activated instead the saver will break. The negative to running the softer spring is bump steer problems. The soft spring is so soft that the servo can't hold the wheels in the arc you choose when the ground is bumpy.

Guess this guy left RCM?

I wonder if Mike would make me a chassis like his? That would be perfect!

Nope, just been busy job hunting. I'm sure with a little prodding Mike would make these. Its simply 14mm longer in the rear than his chassis. I am just waiting for the extended a-arms to come out then it will be perfect.

What do I do about the rear dog bone? Is there a car drive shaft that fits, or does it have to be custom made?