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zeropointbug 05.07.2010 06:37 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here is the donor bike, a 2 year old mountain bike from GT Bikes. 24 speed, alum. frame, magnesium fork, fr and rr disv brakes, so it should be a decent electric converter.

That's where I thought the batt and controller could go? Although the battery could be moved up and controller could move down and further back?

Each cell is 6.8 x150 x210mm, I still don't know whether I want to go 14 or 16s pack. :neutral:

BrianG 05.07.2010 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeropointbug (Post 363331)
Wait, isn't Sine = 0.7x something, so how do you get more than the average voltage when rectified and filtered? Shouldn't the voltage be pretty close to the AC voltage? Or am I missing some current formula that has to be factored in?

Transformers are rated in RMS voltage. But when you rectify and filter them, you get the peak value. 40v AC rms = 56.5v DC (with some ripple depending on capacitance used and current load). Minus around 1.4v for the bridge rectifier diodes gets you around 54v. Oh, and do use a bridge rectifier because instead of the 60Hz ripple, you actually get 120Hz which is easier to filter.

zeropointbug 05.07.2010 10:43 PM

0.71 = Sine Right, okay, I thought you still got the RMS voltage. Yeah, definitely would want bridge rectifier to get maximum power from it. Really gonna consider this as a charger setup for the bike, but later in the summer when he moves away and needs one. It would be nice to get a full charge from empty in less than an hour, and probably less than 1/2 hour regular use.

Was calculating some energy stuff, the bike will have a MPG equivalent of 1800mpg @~25mph. Also, with 16 cells, or ~750Wh, the battery will have nearly the same energy as 1 Cup of white rice, or ~650 Calories.

zeropointbug 05.07.2010 10:47 PM

Brian, do you think you could make up a simple circuit diagram sometime, no hurry, whenever you have time. Nothing fancy, just so I understand what I would be building before I actually did it, and so I have time to think of a good design/circuit setup and materials needed. Thanks. :smile:

zeropointbug 05.12.2010 02:06 PM

Alright, I sent a quote for 16 15Ah cells. That's over 50volts for most of the runtime for the bike. Should be able to do 50km or 31mph no prob with the FAST 9C kit. Buying the kit today, about $500 before taxes/shipping with the upgraded 40A controller and a 8 speed freewheel. That comes with a DP-Cycle Analyst which is nice.

zeropointbug 05.18.2010 09:07 PM

16 cells will be here in about 10 days time. $600 + $130 shipping and fees.

Working on designing a good termination plate and the enclosure now.

Metallover 05.19.2010 08:12 AM

Good deal. Looking forward to progress and pics!

zeropointbug 05.25.2010 05:37 PM

I am trying to find some large shrink wrap to cover ~520mm circumference around the pack. So ~260mm exact 'flat' shrink warp width would need to be maybe ~280mm wide to make it easy to get it on? Preferably something like 300mm?

Anyone know of a domestic place to purchase this at is all I want, I have found places that have it, but in China or UK, etc.

Thanks.

zeropointbug 05.28.2010 08:59 PM

bump

Metallover 05.28.2010 10:55 PM

You can get 20cm heat shrink at ebikes.ca. Go to the site, then the store, then search for "shrink".

Another idea is to use Cohesive Flexible Bandages.

http://www.jefferspet.com/ssc/produc...&pf_id=0029430

Wow that stuff looks pretty good.. I'll look for some locally for myself.

zeropointbug 05.30.2010 01:27 PM

Actually, I guess I am not going to use shrink, I was talking to cell_man and he said just use fiber glass tape, and also I am going to use lexan guard sheets all around the pack for protection, like what I recently did to my RC lipo packs

thanks anyways.

It seems to be taking forever for the cells to arrive. :no: It's been 2 weeks now, so I'll give it 3 more days before I get worried, as I shipped it standard service.

zeropointbug 06.03.2010 10:54 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Well, after ordering the ebike kit and battery cells 2.5 weeks apart, they arrived here on the same day! Hmmm, goodies. The cells have the A123 Systems logo, part #, bar code, etc. still printed on them, and I guess they are made by Enerland facility, in Korea.

The Nine Continent motors are supposed to be one of the lightest built units available, but looks very solid to me. It would be nice if they could make them lighter, adds quite a bit of mass in the wheel, I'm not sure about rotating mass though, I would guess a 1/3 of the total motor weight.

zeropointbug 06.06.2010 12:46 PM

So no one thinks this stack of 30C A123 15Ah cells looks sexy at all? :tongue::neutral:

Metallover 06.06.2010 01:16 PM

That whole pile of parts looks sexy! You'll get some serious power from those cells!

That motor might look sexier with cooling holes and a fan tho,,, If you ever need them

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p...h_DSCN0341.jpghttp://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p...h_DSCN0353.jpg

Make sure you run a couple torque arms in the back.. I didn't see any in the picture. I did see what I think is a disc brake adapter tho! Very nice!

zeropointbug 06.06.2010 03:46 PM

Yeah man, the 720i HP is reporting them to be 1mOhm (probably the lowest it can go?) each. Cell_man did some discharge tests on endless sphere, can discharge 600amps @ 2.0v/cell IIRC. I am going to buy a 1200watt charger for it to get less than an hour 0-100% charge. If you calc the power density from the 26650 M1's, it should have a solid 17kW power capability, so obviously it's not going to break a sweat at ~2000watts peak.

Those holes look scary to me. :oh:

Oh, and do I need a torque arm for the rear?

Metallover 06.06.2010 03:57 PM

You definitely need a torque arm for the rear. I would recommend two torque arms. Make sure you have steel dropouts too.

Here's a good ES thread on torque arms - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/vie...lit=torque+arm

zeropointbug 06.06.2010 05:06 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Okay, I see that you mentioned torque bars in the previous post...

The dropouts are aluminum, everything on the bike frame is either alum. or magnesium. I can get a torque arm made for the disc brake side (we aren't using the disc brake anymore, caliper doesn't fit between rotor and motor:no:), but for the gear cassette side I am not sure. Will one good torque arm suffice with 48v/40A NC kit?

I just got done doing a no load test with 12 A123 cells (26650's) for 36V, no load speed was exactly 50kph or 31mph, so when loaded with 48V hopefully it will hit that speed on flat terrain.

Charger:

http://www.bmsbattery.com/index.php?...products_id=29

That is what I am thinking for the battery connection plate, although I will add ridges between each terminal to prevent small metallic objects being welded to the tabs, or at least reduce accidents from occurring.

Metallover 06.06.2010 05:32 PM

I would advise two to be safe. Some searchin on ES would answer that better,,, I have two on my bike and I will install a third next time I have the wheel all of the way off. Better safe than sorry.

zeropointbug 06.06.2010 10:56 PM

That's true, wouldn't want to have the ebike curb stomp me.:oh:

I just read on the back of the Infineon controller that you can change out a resistor for 100volt operation, now is that 100V fully charged? Or 100V nominal? Do you know anything about these controllers?

What is the peak watts of your setup?

zeropointbug 06.08.2010 02:24 AM

Okay, I went to my machinist today, brought him the plans for the battery pack terminal plate. Will be machined out of 1/2" poly, with 47mm x 2.3mm slots machined in for tabs to come through. Aluminum tabs measuring 65mm x 8mm and 3.125mm thick will be made (17 of them) to clamp down on the tabs connection.

I also got him to make a solid torque bar that mounts to the disc brake caliper mounting holes, so it should hold good and strong.

Metallover 06.08.2010 09:52 AM

Good deal. Make sure to make the torque bar thick. 3/8" sounds wonderful.

zeropointbug 06.19.2010 05:43 PM

Alright, last weekend I got the bike back and a really nice torque bar installed, so i tested the setup out on a 16s A123 pack, just 16 26650 M1 cells, so voltages dipped alot under load, but still it got up to a top speed of 52kph or 32mph on the highway, gets there in less than 10 seconds too, faster than I thought it would be. Cruising at top speed, the voltage is sagging down to ~45 volts, from ~52-55volts resting voltage. I should be get the battery terminal plate from the machinist this week, but I will be gone until weekend so I can't assemble it or test it out until then either. Top speed should be close to 60kph or 37mph as the voltage will not drop.

Pretty fun, and can be scary at times as well. The bumps are definitely magnified from the wheel mass too, can be quite uncomfortable if you ride on a road with potholes or wash board surface.

I don't know about you metallover, but I am getting ~15-17Wh/mile at topseed, IIRC, you said you were getting significantly higher than that, no?

PICS SOON

Metallover 06.20.2010 09:50 PM

Check out my post in this thread. I went crazy and made a graph with all of my information.

I don't have a CA so I can't give you wh/mi, but it could probably be calculated. I umpired for 18 hours this weekend so I'm a little out of it.:zzz:

johnrobholmes 12.21.2010 03:33 PM

I made some progress on my Le Toy frame. This bike is still my favorite to ride out of all my ebikes. Technically this is a motorcycle but it passes for a moped in my state if I don't speed too much.

66.6v 10ah lipo is hidden in the ammo can.

http://www.holmeshobbies.com/blog/wp...d-IMAG0090.jpg

From here there isn't much more I can do besides volt it up a bit. Now I need to make a new frame that is more suited to carrying batteries. And I need a better controller besides these cheap china things.


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