Thanks for that link. Now, why is the tower link working for me and nobody else?? Anyway, I had the revo carriers , not the maxx carriers so I guess that was wrong.

The shopping cart is based on a cookie. Your computer has that cookie and nobody else does.

Revo and Maxx 3.3 carriers are the same. What you have is fine.

What? Now Im really confused. The rpm carriers for the maxx and revo seem to be different.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&C=CMC&V=RPM

Im not necessarily buying from tower just trying to get a "snapshot" on what everything looks like. Tower price would be $180 not counting any discounts. What should/would be a good deal for this outfit?

The stock revo and tmax 3.3 knuckles are the same. I think you are looking at the older maxx style knuckles. If you want to use the 3.3 sliders you need the ones with the large bearings. The revo ones you listed will work.

Not sure on the Ebay price. But it will certainly be much cheaper.

The ones I linked to were rpm carriers not the stock ones.

Of all the parts you listed are the stock parts good enough or do I need to look for aftermarket parts for the 3.3 parts.(not counting the sliders) I searched on ebay and I found all the parts you listed (stock traxxas). Looks way cheaper like you said. thanks for your help.

I went with everything stock except the arms. They are the RPM 3.3 arms. Seems plenty though to me. I havent broken one yet.

Sounds good. One more question. A lot of the parts on ebay for the 3.3 stuff also say 2.5R. Are some of these parts the same for the revo, maxx 3.3 and the maxx 2.5R? Or do I need to only look for 3.3 parts?

2.5R is the new version of the 2.5 Its basically a 3.3 with only the 2.5 motor. All the stuff you are looking for is the same. 3.3 - 2.5R... its all the same.

Cool. I just picked up the carriers w/bearings, shafts & turnbuckles w/the ends...off ebay. Just need to get the arms and I should be set.

Thanks for the help.

Joel

Joel, that link is directed to your own basket.. It doesn't work..

I picked all my stuff up off of ebay for my conversion.

I run the 3.3 stuff on mine with 2.5 arms.. no rubbing anywhere.. I scored all my stuff of ebay for around 50.00 not including diffs..
phil

I got all my parts together(i hope) for this mod. The first thing I noticed was that the stock lower arms have a "channel" for the shock ends to go between where you set the screw. The rpm ones do not. Do I just mount the shocks on the outside of the bracket on the lower arms?

yes sir....

Nice. RPM makes amazing parts.

This thread has gained about two pages since I stopped posting in it. Now that I have some money towards my Jeep, I've been really wanting a new chassis for my E-Maxx. I do like the GorillaMaxx G2 chassis but it sits way to low and does not look good with a body since the chassis is hanging way down there.

I need a suggestion(s) on a new chassis. I've been looking at the FLM one and it seems pretty decent. Is it any good? Is there anything better? I want something that can survive a severe beating while still being lightweight and affordable. Is it possible?

Thanks,

Josh :028:

FLM is nice check out some pics here i have yet to use it but it appears it is the strongest chassis i have ever seen and the best part is the price it is only 90 bucks if you are a basher i recommend this chassis if you are a racer i recommend the gmaxx one. For your purposes i would say go with the FLM chassis it adds lots of strength looks good and is pretty much indestructible.

Im installing the 3.3 stuff and got a question. On the carriers where the turnbuckle mates to it on the ball link, it looks like there are a front and rear version. From some pics I looked at it seems the ones positioned in the center of the link are for the rear and the others for the front with the turnbuckle link riding in the "higher position" as opposed to flipping it over the other way. Just making sure it goes together right the first time.

Thanks, J.

The flm chassis are light and can take a beating, at a great price too. Even if anything does happen ; you have the warranty.

FLM, it's the way to go if you are a basher...and bodies will fit properly.

Just make sure to get an extended body.

I'll second that, the FLM is extended. But there are more and more extended alternatives to bodies now too.

i like the look of the non extended bodys if you use a wing that means that is less you have to cut out of the back end of the body to get the wing to fit (But this does not apply in your situation in your situation if you go flm extended will do you good)

Which bodies do you guys suggest? If I do get the FLM chassis will I be able to mock up a LST body?

Josh :028:

If you are getting the extended version, there is an extended ford body that Mike sells. Otherwise, if you're looking for a crowdpleazer type, the Revo 3.3 pleazer would work, which I'm sure Mike could get for you as well.

I use proline LST2 body on my FLM maxx and it fits perfectly u can check pictures on my web (i got couple on this forums in gallery - http://www.rc-monster.com/coppermine...l_DSC_0099.JPG

What would be the least expensive method to upgrading my differentials. I'm in need of some cash and I need to sell of my 7.5 Buggy Differentials which I never used and are brand new (PM Me if your intrested).

So something like RRP Diff gears or something?

Josh :028:

Well, Not sure what you can get for those diffs, but I'm assuming its about what it would cost you to upgrade using RRP gears and aluminum cups and such. I would simply use the diffs you have with FLM Hybrid bulks. If you don't want, don't have, or can't get CVD's, theres a little mod to make them slider compatible.

I have CVD's already. I'm just looking for a alternate method (AKA cheaper) to upgrading my differentials.

It's been running through my head if I should sell the E_Maxx or not.

Josh :028:

IMO, use what squee said, otherwise you are looking at getting new diffs anyway. If you use the stock diffs with cups, you still are forking out the dough for those as well as aluminum casings. Just use the 1/8th diffs. Get the hybrids...the cost would be cheaper.

yes do the slider deal this is what is am doing it is cheap yet very effective sliders and knuckles new areunder 50 with shipping on ebay for both of them and they are more realiable than mip cvds IMO because i have heard of people breaking mips but not the sliders

Some here have had success with the MIP's. Also, could we get some punctuation? It would be easier to read what you type.....:018:

i know some of you use them with great ease, but i was just saying it is rarer to see broken sliders than broken MIP's. Nothing agenst mip i just recommended it becuase it was cheap and works great for the price. (Sorry about the puncuation just woke up)

It's all good! :)

josh -

not sure where you're at on your build, but if you're serious about the powerstrokes, don't get the RPM shock towers. because of their flexibility, the powerstrokes put unequal force on them causing them to flex away from center. (the bypass shocks don't put the same amount of pressure as the outside coil-overs). i now have to find different towers, and i'll prob. go with the FLM's.

just a heads-up.

So should I go with DUH Engineering shock towers? If I do, would I just throw out the entire Powerstroke idea and hook up some 1/8 Buggy shocks?

I'm debating about cracking open the bank account.

Josh :028:

right now UE has the RacerX Knucklehead shock towers half off - $35 for 2, and i believe they're 7075 aluminum. i ordered a set last week because of the price. don't throw out the powerstroke idea - they're great shocks!

here's a link to the knuckleheads:
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/10102.html

I would go for FLM towers. That and Powerstrokes will make a GREAT setup.