Makes sense. How is a cold solder joint obtained? Too much heat? Not enough heat? Both?

Some of my connections look cloudy, but are very strong. Thsi usually happens to me with deans. I'm almost thinking the type of solder used here as well. My solder is not always "shiny", but my system runs really well right now....
Suppose it would help using the damn edit button!

Use a quality "Rosin Core" solder. Lack of heat is one very common cause. Movement of the joint as it cools is another. Impurities from a dirty solder iron tip can add to the problems.

Make sure to occasionally wipe off the tip on a damp sponge or even a clean shop towel.

You probably already know this, but there is a sticky on soldering...

yup, used that the first time i soldered my first dean! hehehe, these are jsut dumb questions incase I'm missing something here. I'm pretty good at soldering, but never hurts to ask...thanks guys!

The sharing of info & ideas (not to mention the collective brainpower) on this site makes it unusual and exceptional! I'm proud to be an active part of the forums here!

+2! World of wealth and knowledge here!

When I solder, I'm usually pretty liberal about using flux. Not crazy with it, but not too sparing either. I've had joints that were not shiny and were not cold joints. I think that this is caused by not using enough flux, as when you happen to have to re-solder something. Flux serves to help the solder flow and it removes the impurities from the solder joint. I also typically use silver solder intended for electronics. It adds very little resistance and is VERY strong.

Well, I got my Feigao 7XL in today. It's a pretty hefty piece of motor weighing in at just over 13oz. There were a couple of things that really reflected the motor's price point. The first was that the kv rating of the motor was written on a label in marker. Other than the kv rating and the size of the motor, there's really no way to tell what it is. I hope I got what I ordered. The second was the lack of a flat machined into the shaft to accomodate the set screw of the pinion. Is this normal or did I get the wrong motor?

As for the Neu debate, I'm going with the 1515 1Y. It's just plain more efficient and the kv rating will put me in the range of 33,000 rpms. To tell the truth, if they had a 1515 with a 2400kv rating, I'd probably go with that, but I think the next jump is to the 2700kv motor and the current draw @ 10v (I think that's what the number meant) almost doubles from the 2200kv motor.

I just hope that Castle doesn't sit on the firmware revision too long. Aside from the fact that extreme cogging can be a PITA, it could also be very embarassing.

I've never gotten a motor (besides the Castle motors) that had a flat spot on the output shaft. Just put one on there yourself. My preference for doing it is a Dremel.

The NUE does not have a flat either. FYI

Yeah, I'm learning as I go. :)

What do your guys think would be a good all around pinion for this setup.

MM controller on 4S lipo
Neu 1515 1Y
46T spur

I was thinking a 14T. I just want to order a few before I find out that they aren't REALLY hardened and I wind up killing a few of them while I wait for the really hardened one to be in stock.

Man, just as I was gonna say go for a 1512... j/k

Seriously IF there was a 2200-2400kv 1512 I would say do that, but it's a big jump from 2000 to 2600... too bad cause you do save a few bucks and a couple oz. It sure won't hurt to have the bigger motor for running in the heat of summer... are you in Texas?

14T is what I was thinking too... should put you right in the 35-40 range just like a fast nitro.

When you dremel a flat spot on the shaft don't forget to cover the motor/holes with a rag to keep out any metal bits.

Ditto on the software update... I want it SOON.

glassdoctor,

I'm in (or just outside of) New Orleans. It's hot AND humid. 90 can feel like 110.

Man, I do have to admit that I've been struggling over the whole 1512 thing. I've read a bunch of your posts and you seem to be having good luck with yours. You're getting cool temps and good runtimes. Where I'm getting hung up is on the whole rpm thing. The only logical choice in the 1512 line is the 2.5d, although I do find the idea of the 2d to be appealing. The only problem is that I don't think that my mounting situation is going to allow me to run a pinion much smaller than a 12, so the 2d is out. That leaves the 2.5d. I understand you can get some speed out of it, but you've gotta sacrifice some zip to get that speed with a 2000kv motor. I don't know what your track is like, but mine is pretty tight. The longest straight is 160' (which is why I need to legs), but the rest of it is pretty technical.

I used to motor selector and plugged in all of my parameters and it seems that it puts the 1512 out of the game completely when I increase the weight of the buggy from 8 to 8.5lbs. It appears that, according to the motor selector, about 8 lbs. is the limit for the 1512 motor before it starts getting stresses. I just figure that the 1515 will be able to do everything the 1512 can by gearing. What concerns me is that it is not unusual for me to run my buggy on my track and wind up a 1lb of mud stuck to it. Over the course of a race, or a couple of races, that factor alone could cause the 1512 to overheat. I'm thinking that the 1515 might just shrug it off.

I'm hoping that my pinions get here tomorrow. That way I can see what the mesh is going to be like with the various pinions. I don't even know that I'll have room for the Neu. It might just wind up being Feigao all the way.

BTW, what you do think of Hacker motors? I was just on their website and they are blowing out overstocks of the C50-9XL for $240 and the C50-11L for $195.

Extreme cogging can be more than embariasing and a PITA. When it happens the current spikes thru the roof and you can actually fry the ESC. I fried my MM when it cogged a Neu motor and I didnt get off the throttle fast enough.

I agree. The software update cant come soon enough.

jhautz is right for sure... never keep grabbing throttle if it's coggin bad and won't go. I smoked my eagle tree trying that... desoldered the wires. MM survived that time, but probably only because there was a weaker link in the chain.

Oh yeah... NewOrleans.. it's never hot there right? :)

1515 1Y does look to be the can't miss choice.... sounds good to me. Like I said here somewhere... there isn't just one "right" choice. Both L and XL size motors can work, and work well. And within reason, gearing will make it into what you want.

I think the tiebreaker is the hot climate you are in.... bigger motor is probably a good idea.

Stick a fan on the motor and esc when it's hot and I think you will be golden.

But you really should pick up a Kyosho plastic gear adn see if you can make it work... probably just need to use a different size bearing on that side if it's different than the Turmoil. It's a Mugen clone I think right? I'm not sure about those....