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-   -   J1A1H XXL Torque Monster Buildup........ (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26750)

Jahay 08.11.2010 05:04 AM

really? standard thick black electrical tape? if it works, ill definitely use it

scarletboa 08.12.2010 03:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahay (Post 376425)
really? standard thick black electrical tape? if it works, ill definitely use it

that's what i have been using. no problems yet:yipi:

Jahay 08.13.2010 03:16 AM

ill give it a go!!! Cheers

Yesterday something i have been waiting for to arrive fell through my letterbox after paying $20 customs.... Something shiny and pretty

My New Bulk Heads!!! From GoldenHorizons... MY GOD THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL!!!! and cant wait to fit them
Should stop any flex at all between my diff gears and my bearings should last longer.
And now i have these, my truck is basically ready for 9s!!!!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-12202618.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-12202641.jpg

once i have her all together and abused her quite a bit... i will be getting all the alloy re anodized in orange!!! :P

_dV 08.13.2010 03:48 AM

very nice. what do they weigh? ..and you never weighed your center diff for me :whistle:. glad to hear about the re-anodizing plans. can't stand the purple personally, as you can probably tell from my build. Still waiting on slipper part for mine :cry:

Jahay 08.13.2010 04:44 AM

oh man, im sorry... Im off on holiday for a week today. But when i get back i am doing a full tear down, and complete rebuild, so ill weigh the CD and the bulks for you then...

Definitely re ano all of the purple... HATE PURPLE! i like the orange theme for this truck, similar to the wire mesh i use to protect the cables...

danielc79 08.13.2010 07:21 PM

do you do your own annodizing or pay someone to do it? i'd like some of my purple crap orange or blue....

suicideneil 08.14.2010 03:46 AM

I know of a guy in the USA who does his own anodizing, but his setup looks very complex & it requires loads of nasty chemicals, so its usually a case of send the parts off to a specialist company to get them done. You pay buy the 'basket load', rather than a set price for each piece, so the more parts you get done at once, the cheaper it works out per part ( thats the usual practice that I've seen ).

Jahay 08.15.2010 08:26 AM

i know a few companies in the states that do anodizing, and usually charge around $100 for all the alloy on a savage truck. I will have to find the name, im on holiday at the moment so will link you to it when i am back ...

Finnster 08.16.2010 05:21 PM

I talked to a few annodizers for quotes around here, and $100-150 is about right for a basket of parts. Best to have everythign ready at once. An additional load in a diff color tended to be only ~$20 extra.

I talked to Jaime at FLM once about ano parts, and he said he knew of a place that could do it for less. This was last year, so IDK right now.

And yes, the purple is hideous. :)

nuz69 08.16.2010 05:55 PM

You will finally succeed in jumping one or two houses :lol::lol::lol:

Jahay 08.25.2010 07:32 AM

haha maybe nuz... we will see...

update on the build...

Things have been going very slow recently... just got back from holiday, now i am busy at work, then i am off this weekend. So just never have time for the truck...

I have been putting her slowly back together and while she is apart, im cleaning everything and building her completely from the ground up.
Changing all the fluids and bearings etc...
Decided to run 30k rear 50k front and 50k centre for now.

There is still a lot of work to do and i am running into minor difficulties, and hopefully with my build, others will be aware if one is doing something similar

Here are some pictures and also i need some help and advice on some problems which will be stated below
I thought i would take loads of pics, post them as i know things wont look this shiny or clean for a long while till i get everything re anodized in 3-4 months time. So i am taking the opportunity to take loads of pictures.


Stock Shock Tower
GH Bulks (yes they work with the flux)
BP Diffs w/ 30k diff oil (rear)
HD Centre Axle
Gorilla snawt for grease and some very nice bearings for the diffs and my RSC Hubs...
I cant believe how amazing these bulks are... the diffs have a great soild mesh with a ridiculously smooth movement!!! SO SO HAPPY!


http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24212817.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24212724.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24212744.jpg

Ok so the problems i am having... Small problems but im sure there are ways around them....
1. The Savage suspension conversion upper arm mount does not work with these bulks due to the design(stock upper arms obviously do).
You cannot use stock upper arms with the savage suspension conversion because the rear alloy hubs protrude towards the bulks too much. Anyway, it means i need to utilise the upper arms that come with the conversion but using the stock mounting method. This isnt a problem... but there is something i need in order to make it work.
The picture below explains what i need. Could someone help me out and find the bits i need that fit into the plastic upper arm bits and perfectly accommodate the size of the stock upper arm pin please?

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...y87/RSCKit.jpg

So that is my first problem... i then ran into my next problem which involves the HPI Anti Roll bar... Here are some more pictures, and you may be able to spot what i am on about... If not, just keep reading

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24223046.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24223003.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24223145.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24223345.jpg

Ok from the pictures you can see that i should be able to mount the plastic shield that holds the ARB in position. There are even holes for screws for the plastic shield to be held in place.... BUT THE HOLES ARE NOT THREADED!!!! so does this mean i should just thread some holes my self??? I know not many of you have the GH Bulks, but some do and if you have encountered this problem, please show me the way....

Last few pics i promise....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24224638.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-24224613.jpg

So...

Just to recap, i have 2 problems... the upper arm problem and the ARB screw hole problem... Any advice about the ARB or links to where i can get the right size collers for the upper arm pins?
I will continue with the build, but need all these little things to complete it...
RAN OUT OF BLUE LOC TITE TOO!!!! need some of that.... OH and i am about of diff gaskets, so need some of them too...

Jahay 09.06.2010 07:05 AM

shimmed my axles today, and have some great ideas for a custom roll cage...i was looking at some from Main5t but considering he hasnt got my chassis to build around, i thought i would make my own...

everything is cming together, and i have solved my upper arm problems... i am yet to tap out the sway bar holes

i Had problems with stiff meshing on my front GH Bulkhead... I realised that it was because when i broke a pinion on my BP Diffs, i decided to replace only the pinion rather than the set... they obviously have different wear patterns, which meant that with the tight tolerances of the GH Bulks, the gears were not working smoothly... so i am waiting on my new BP Diffs to arrive...

Jahay 09.12.2010 04:46 PM

Ok ive been working on getting the truck into one piece this weekend... It has been apart for so long. The centre diff is complete, and i have put the lipo boxes on as i am prepping for 9s... And also made a start on my own custom nylon roll cage... Its not completed yet as i still have to make the front shock tower protection and after thats completed, i will be setting the camber and shimming my axles and other little things like meshing the motor and CD....

Tell me what you think?

First... I bought a cheap tap screw set to try and tap the bulks for my sway bars... anyway that didnt work so i improvised... It works and will hold for the time being... Not pretty but i dont care.. i just want to run teh truck

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-11133128.jpg

Made an internal lipo stop. Will prevent the lipo flying into the centre diff...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-11133156.jpg


Ok the pics of my cage....

How it started...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12152928.jpg

I attached the nylon to the bumpers... this way, force is transferred to either bumper rather than the TVPs or anything else...
To hold the screws in place, as to not rip the plastic bumper, i used a small alloy plate....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12152945.jpg

Making the rear shock tower part of the cage...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12173353.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12173409.jpg

And thats where i got to today... The rear needs a little more support, but i stopped early as i was getting tired, and didnt want to mess up the job...

Here are some more pics

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12190421.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12190513.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12190607.jpg

Jahay 09.12.2010 04:46 PM

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12190626.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-12190658.jpg

I havent got a picture yet, but i have put all my weight on it although its not finished. It does take a lot of force but with a lot of flex absorbing the impact.

Thanks Mainst for the inspiration.... You know you would have had my business if it were not due to my chassis... :wink:

Will keep you posted as to what it will look like when finished...

Nard Cox 09.13.2010 03:46 AM

Nice bars!

It does sit a bit low at the rear though.

Jahay 09.13.2010 06:09 AM

truck isnt finished.. .still a work in progress... suspension is low as i have removed most of the pre loaders...

Thanks, its not finished yet so stay tuned

Soro 09.13.2010 07:59 AM

Jahay,

Nice work :yipi:

From what material are the rods made which you use for your cage ?

Jahay 09.13.2010 08:02 AM

cheers mate... they are nylon rods... Very strong and very flexible!

Jahay 09.15.2010 03:27 PM

small update to the cage...
still not completed but it is very strong now whlist maintaining a lot of flex... I can now put all my body weight on it...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-14215808.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-14215828.jpg


These are the rear supports. They are very strong but offer a lot of flex to a point

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-14215913.jpg


The cage isnt finished yet... should be done in the next few days...

Jahay 09.19.2010 06:28 AM

Cage Update...

I have spent enough time on the cage now and the final part didnt come out how i would have hoped for...

i thought the cage would have looked better with the nylon sheeting.....

I bought some 2mm nylon sheeting and this stuff is very strong, flexible stuff!!!

i'll let the pics do the talking....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-18161605.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-18161539.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-18161659.jpg


as you can see the cage does not look great at all!!! and it just obscures my ease of accessing the internals of the truck...

so i thought i would remove the large centre cover part, and leave the front shock tower cover on to protect and offer some form of aerodynamic down force at high speeds (if it works)....



http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-18163902.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-18163914.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...18163924-1.jpg


I would prefer to run the cage as is but the front shock tower support should offer some form of protection...

Plus i spent quite a bit of time on it, and so i dont want to remove all my wasted work....

I am going to make some rear A arm deflector things out of the nylon, should be robust and protect the rear a little...

Jahay 09.23.2010 03:48 PM

Took the truck out today but it got dark very quickly... so only 2 very short vids of it performing...
BTW this is on my weak 6s lipos... should be a whole new game on the hyperion 6s

I need stiffer diff oil when oil surfaces like grass and dirt, but 50k diff oil seems to be fine on pavement... As you can see... wheelies very easily!

Sorry i uploaded to photobucket instead of youtube as it was quicker from my phone.

At night

http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-19-27-16.mp4

Sliding around in my little garden

http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-18-24-11.mp4

mind the terrible driving, just trying to flip it and slide it... It is very planted!!! and turns in better than before... i like this setup!

I think the 100k diff oil is still needed for the centre diff
And i will be running it tomorrow in more space with badlands on front and back... more vids will follow

Also, i just placed an order for another neu 1520!!! got it for $95 posted from castle!!! CANT BEAT A MOVING SALE!

Bmr4life 09.23.2010 05:05 PM

Oh hell yeah!!!

I just ordered 2 1518-1800KV 1 Turn motor's. My DB17 and Truggy racing truck thank you!!

Now I gotta get some 6s batteries.

EDIT. Went back and got a 1520 also just incase. :)

mac3194 09.23.2010 10:02 PM

i just ordered a 1518 1800kv motor too! r these good motors for a savage?? i kinda bought it on impulse lol

Finnster 09.23.2010 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mac3194 (Post 381316)
i just ordered a 1518 1800kv motor too! r these good motors for a savage?? i kinda bought it on impulse lol

Yes, very much so. Stock is a 1515, the 1518 is bigger. A 1520 is even bigger. I personally run a 1520 series on my XL

Bmr4life 09.23.2010 10:28 PM

Pretty sure you MUST run 5 or 6s with these lower kv motors if you want to keep up with a stock flux.

I'm unsure about gearing with these super torque motors though.

Guys running savages in the 15-20lb range definitely need one of these motors. I'm pretty sure the stock motor mount must be modified to fit these though.

mac3194 09.23.2010 11:13 PM

Well I'm running a converted savage ss with 5s so that's y I got the 1518 instead of the 1520 hope fully I dnt see a major speed loss but increase of torque and cooler temps. I hope it's a good choice if not I'll just sell it on fleabay and maybe make a profit lol

Finnster 09.24.2010 12:31 AM

Jahay is running the 1520 on 5S IIRC. See the beginning of the thread.

You can adj your gearing to make up for rpms due to the increased TQ. Or just add more volts and run a complete beast. 5S on the 1520 will kick ass. Plus the motor will stay cooler and be more tolerant to the power demands some may want to abuse it with

Jahay 09.24.2010 04:50 AM

haha finnster! 5s???? never ever ran 5s... only 6s on the 1520... I personally wouldnt run anything less...

5s or a 1518 would be nice though.

Finnster 09.24.2010 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahay (Post 381358)
haha finnster! 5s???? never ever ran 5s... only 6s on the 1520... I personally wouldnt run anything less...

5s or a 1518 would be nice though.

LOL Sry! I was skimming the thread and you had mentioned getting a single 5S on pg 1.

Still tho, I wouldn't shy away from getting that motor even if all I had was a 5S ATM. The gearing bit is still true. However, to get the most out of the upgrade, boosting the voltage should be considered. That's the point I was driving at. :)

Jahay 09.24.2010 11:16 AM

on 6s im geared to 53mph which is nice. Great torque, great speed... 5s may lower the top end but should still be fun. I wouldnt gear for too much speed as the esc may get hot..

mac3194 09.24.2010 05:31 PM

thanks for the replies guys... how is castle on shipping time to Indiana via USPS Priority

what is the 1717 good for a razor scooter lol im kinda curious lol since its only $70

Bmr4life 09.24.2010 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahay (Post 381382)
on 6s im geared to 53mph which is nice. Great torque, great speed... 5s may lower the top end but should still be fun. I wouldnt gear for too much speed as the esc may get hot..

I plan on running my 1717 with the stock 49T spur and a 25T pinion. See how I like that on 6s. If its not enough, I may spring for the 43T spur.

88gtanotchback 09.25.2010 12:10 AM

what gearing is it you run to get your 53mph on 6s?

Jahay 09.25.2010 04:07 AM

my gearing with the 1520, was different... i used a 39t high speed idler gear... which resulted in me using 18/47 /39t. that gave me 53mph.

with my centre diff im running 11/46

88gtanotchback 09.25.2010 10:51 AM

ah yes i forgot about the center diff. thanks for the info, i was curious as to how it was set up for 53mph. are you using 4.2v in the calc, or do you use 3.7v?

Jahay 09.25.2010 03:10 PM

i use 3.7v as thats roughly the voltage you get when under load if i remember...

Bmr4life 09.25.2010 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahay (Post 381546)
i use 3.7v as thats roughly the voltage you get when under load if i remember...

Makes sense.

Jahay 10.05.2010 06:26 AM

i have been doing some huge long jumps recently... vids will follow...

Truck is running amazingly well and reliably now!!! even when things go wrong, downtime is minimal thanks to the centre diff and motor mount style as tvps neve have to come off...
the GH Bulks have been awesome allowing absolutley no unwanted movement for the diffs to flex so nothing wrong at all there....

Im loving the savage more and more and it is now dying for a MMMXL and 9s setup! i am no longer experiencing bad pinion wear! the spur on the spider diff still looks new!

I have never had so much trouble free running...

only probs at the moment are, i have no lipos as i have either blown them or have bad conections!

So next are lipos and and new charger....
MMM XL and building my second basher flux....


I DID BREAK A BATTERY BOX MOUNT! first time to do that... i need to get some alloy GCM Ones... i was going to make my own, but GCM ones look awesome!

88gtanotchback 10.05.2010 08:46 PM

GCM ones are cool but damn expensive for what they are. lets see the vids!

Bmr4life 10.05.2010 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88gtanotchback (Post 382908)
GCM ones are cool but damn expensive for what they are. lets see the vids!

Are they? I thought $100 was a decent price for what I got. Forward tranny conversion with 17" WB.

Heck, the FLM forward tranny conversion is $185.


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