I would like to know if the RCM diff shafts that Neil linked are stronger than the Traxxas Revo stub axles I modify to fit the LST diffs. Also is the groove in the RCM axles for an O ring for better protection against leakage? Anyone know?

Something to consider, I use these diffs from this guy on ebay. I bought 5 or 6 diffs from him and each and everyone of them came with the aluminum cases and the Team Losi heavy duty diff case part# LOSB3528 which is stronger and is also the same diff case as the smart diff.

Some might be interested in how I put LST diffs in my bulkheads now. Once again, thanks Linc for the idea.

Got some diffs off of ebay finally. I got them installed in my G3R and posted a thread about it in that forum. Here's the thread.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...d=1#post325546

I also am trying something different to secure the diffs in the bulkhead.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...illandtap0.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rearbulk04.jpg

There's more pictures of that method in the thread I linked to above.

Thanks for putting in the link to your pictures MisterCrash. The one earlier in this thread are dead so I snuck into you photobucket to see your LST differential pictures before I started on mine.


I ran into the problem with the LST diff cups are shallower then the stock ones I was running with the stock revo differentials. The LST cups make the Trx Steel cvds to short and they pop out too easy. I've got the knuckles screwed in as far as I can. I might be able to do some more dremel work to end of the arms and get more steering and clearance to allow the knuckles to be screwed in a little more. If I can't find longer cups from another 1/8th differential. I will probably be switching back to the stock axles. Maybe the summit ones but will need the shafts that mike sells to do it with. If I come up with and solutions I will post. Any ideas on stretching the steel shafts another mm would be helpful.

Another thanks To HPI for making the savage bulkhead so easy. Man I don't want to open up the G3R to get to the bulkheads again anytime soon. Three times in a week is plenty for me.

Well...I did this Mod about 2 months ago and so far so good....I followed MC's lead on shaving the LST diffs, so the bulkheads aren't shaved too much...They run flawlessly (Knock on wood) with 10K diff oil in the front, 50k Diff oil in the MC Special center diff, and 5k in the rear diff....One thing that I did do differently, was I sprayed foam into the bulkheads once the diffs were in place, and they are solid...it feels to me like it strengthened the bulkheads a bit.... I was expecting the machine to slow down due to the lst diff's gearing, but I didn't see much of a cut in speed....

I'm haveing great luck also, about 8 months for one ERevo and about 3+ for my other. I filled my bulkheads with hot glue after installation and seems to be very stable. It was a lot of work and expense was not exactly cheap but superior over other alternatives in your handy.

I never did finish mine. Sad huh. I do have a set of hybrid cases to use in the speed truck project, should it ever get off the ground (bench). Guess I am having a rc construction block, need some sexlax to get me moving again!

I got some slop (differential case inside the revo bulk head) with my rear one. Will have to take it apart to see what is happening or what I did in the first place to get it to sit tight in the revo bulk heads. The front has held in place fine. The LST diffs have been bulletproof so far.

I've been in the rc construction block for a couple months now myself Linc. Seems every rc I have needs some work on it just haven't found the motivation to work on them.

Yeah, I did some cleaning up in the hobby room last night and really think it is time to sell of most of the rc so I can concentrate on the custom builds. I have a bunch of tamiya stuff that needs to move on and other stuff that I just do not use. Hate to take the hit on resale but i know the cash would be better served in savings than clutter... Once the dead of summer hits hard i will be building more, since the rc room has a new ac unit!!!

I may have a solution but you won't like it. I ran the Summit shafts on my E-Revo so I didn't use Losi's output diff cups. I made output shafts using TRA5454 stub axles. It's just a matter of grinding off the threaded part just enough and you can use it for output shafts. Then you could try RC Monsters Drive cups on the shafts. I think it might give the few mm more you need to prevent those CVDs from popping out. I have some RC Monster Drive Cups that I could measure for you and I also still have the LST diffs I used in the E-Revo so I could even slip a drive cup on one of the shaft and measure how far it sticks out of the diff.

Lemme know.
Ray

Yeah, I listed a bunch of my rc on craigslist and you know how that goes. Everyone wants them for free or close to it. Been working on fixing up the house so money is going towards that for now.


I saw how you made the output shafts and should have plenty of those stock shafts laying around. That would be great if you could measure them up when you have it opened up or what ever. I only have one shaft that pops out of the cup every now and then. Front right. The rest hold in there well, the rear diff is loose in the revo bulk head. May pack it with hot glue like someone mention for a quick fix until I feel like taking it apart again. Most of my RC play time anymore goes into my 5b. But the G3R get the second most time.

No problem.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...diff_cups1.jpg