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BM - 88 and i are talking about the gcm lipo alloy box mounts not the chassis.... The chassis is a great price... but $60 for some alloy mounts is a lot!!!!!!
Vids coming very soon, just needs a bit of editing |
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Ran the truck on the weekend with a few other guys...
Didnt get much footage but got one shot of my savage jumping... nothing too big as this was my first jump... But after a few more jumps, i was going as far as that tree you can see in the distance... My Jump After the day, i suffered one bit of damage which was a broken lipo box mount... So the legend Chris at GCM hooked me up with some of these sexy things http://gcmachine.ca/images/fbmo003.jpg Thanks a lot for the deal Chris! As i also have no lipos at the moment i decided to temporarily get some lipos to keep me running... So i have bought some turnigy 40c 5000mah 3s lipos X2 im just waiting for the new MMMXL before i pick up some Nanotechs... I actually tested some nanotechs on the weekend and they were great performing lipos for the price, but the performance compared to my 35c 6500mah hyperion lipos was nearly as good but they just didnt have the punch although they are rated at 90c compared the 65c punch of the hyperions. But for the price of $57 you cannot complain! |
The hyperion have also a better weight/(capacity.power) ratio than the zippy lipo, given the extra life time that the hyperions offers I would go for the hyperion ;) Check on windrider.com ;)
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that is true nuz but I WILL NEVER BUY HYPERION AGAIN! both of my hyperions failed... Broken connections in one and a failed cell in another all within 40 cycles! Although they are powerful, they are 10X worse put together compared to the cheap turnigys which i will now be running from now on!
You cant beat the performance of a hyperion but you can certainly beat the quality! |
Although i will never be purchasing hyperions again... it doesnt mean that i am not going to repair my current ones... I have found one dead cell, so i will remove and make it a 5s pack.
A friend of mine who also hates hyperion due to bad connection problems has just given my 2x2s 6500mah 35c lipos too.. So i will hopefully get them all working after i take them apart completely and resolder everything up... Which means i will be running 9s Hyperions!!! WOOP WOOP! ONLY IF THEY WORK THOUGH! i may need to hit up linc and ask for advice when putting these back toegehter as i have no idea where to start.... a little update A few things have arrived in the post... Thought i would post them up.... My Neu 1520 Motor has arrived but i need to collect it from the Post office and pay a £15.00 customs charge which is annoying! £7 VAT and £8 Handling! talk about rip off on handling! I have been having problems with my steering failing after large cartwheels etc... The stock HPI Savage tie rod ends are just not strong enough! I even used alloy ends and you wont believe, but after a cartwheel i inspected the alloy rod end only to find the ball stud had been ripped out from the alloy!!!!! So this is my new approach... i am also hoping in increases my steering furthur due to the bend as you can see in the pic below. These are beefy mothers!!!! I cant see them flexing anytime soon! Espeically with my TI Turnbuckles :) http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...0-13102751.jpg Also my Turnigy lipos arrived from HK! Ordered last tuesday and arrived wednesday after being sent out on friday from the German warehouse... Not too bad! 5000mah 40c 3s Lipos http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...0-13102730.jpg At least i have some lipos for the time being to keep running |
What are those tie rods?
I used Hellfire rod ends for steering in my build. Had to shave things a tad to get full suspension throw but zero issues after some major incidents. Haven't got a good pic of them but they are chunky and look the part. http://i1010.photobucket.com/albums/...h_IMG_0387.jpg 93627 HPI Turnbuckle M5x60mm Hellfire 85230 HPI Rod End Set 7x45mm Hellfire 86144 HPI Ball 6.8x8x3mm |
You ok _dv?
yea i was contemplating the hellfire ones... But i when i saw these i thought they were awesome! They are from a hyper st rear turn buckles http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hobao-Hyper-ST...item255b4068ac I like the bend in the rod as i have grinded a little too much on my RSC Conversion and its when at full throw... the steering isnt tight, but loose... so hopefully this small bend in the rod end will solve my minor issue and pull my steering inwards a little bit... terrible explanation but ill get pics... |
The stock savage rod ends are soft, sloppy POS... IMHO. lol
I used Hellfire rodends as well as thick 5mm buckles from the HF as well. I'll just post a thumbnail to not junk up your thread: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...yXL4wsmod1.jpg They are the same rodends that are used on the adj arm kit for the savage also, they they can do double duty for spare parts. Now str ends are v thick, solid and no slop. V happy results. |
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Kyosho makes some bent rod ends as well (for the 777 IIRC) They are for str rods, so they are not as large as the HST rodends as well. May or may not be what you want, and depends on the clearance of your wheels EDIT: Here they are. they are actually a good mod for the knuckle end of the HST to give the knuckle a bit more clearance and better throw. |
thanks for the links and help finn...
I CANT BELIEVE I DIDNT DO THIS SOONER! this should be a compulsary mod! the stock ends as you say are just plain rubbish.. maybe they would do on lighter rc's but not a heavy savage! |
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Not sure I understand where you are going with the bent rod ends. They may have helped with the fact that I had to cut off the shock mount on my lower arm as the hellfire rod end would hit them at full lock. |
Haha i guess its not asked frequently on forums and not in that way... just asking how you were lol...
Ok i ran the truck yesterday evening... Those tie rods are awesome!!!! My steering is back to how it should be! very nice and tight!!! problem is because i ground of too much from the RSC Conversion on the knuckle, and the tie rods are doing such a good job... my drive shaft is popping out on one side occasionally... Nothing an O ring or two cannot fix on the diff side to push the shaft outwards a little... These rods are not necessary for anyone... i only decided to use them because i ground too much off the knuckle on my RSC Conversion.... upon fitting, you do notice they hit on the hpi sway bars upon turning if you have them that is... But its a simple fix... just slide your sway bar mounts a little furthur inwards and dremel a little bit of the sway bar end to give a little clearance... minor problem really! The lipos - upon arrival where all equally balanced at 3.87 a cell. They charged up and balanced absolutely fine. The lipos... i didnt run so hard as i just wanted to break them in... But they gave me an awesome first run time... and held punch nearly all the way till LVC... I am extremely happy with them! and i dont think i noticed much difference if any difference between these 40/50c lipos and the nanotech 45c/90c lipos i tried recently!!!!! I will reveiw again as usually the first 10 cycles of these turnigys is where cells can fail or balancing causes problems... but i have already charged them for a second time and they were fine... When they discharged after the first use... the cells were a little out of balance, but i found that to be a prob on all my lipos... It charged and balanced fine to 4.2V per cell! |
[youtube]gxasmEERfoE[/youtube]
I'm sure the local soccer club loves you :wink: ps. If you want more grip on gras put on some Mulchers, wouldn't be suprised if the car would end on it's rollcage. |
im loving the badlands... they grip amazingly when its not wet or damp out...
Yea i didnt realise how much i had chewed all the grass up over the past 2 days... It was all green and now has more of a brownish colour haha |
Anyway update...
Something nice arrived today from GCM! less than a week from canada to the UK http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...0-15104130.jpg http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...0-15104137.jpg Hopefully this should cure my lipo mounts breaking when landing big jumps.... |
Took the truck out today after i lost a screw in my steering assembly yesterday cutting my run short.
Today resulted in some carnage... The rear left hub bearings blew completely... resulting in the SHD Axle no actually sitting on anything... Because i am a fool i decided to keep on running it resulting in the axle chewing up the hub... So i have put a plastic hub on temporarily with a tie rod haha Also i decided to do some speed runs with the moabs and i think the pinion had already worn a little too much... This resulted in the pinion blowing resulting in some CRAZY SPARK action and me hitting a bollard... no damage caused, only the pinion... [YOUTUBE]<iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="1280" height="750" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Hew53NyAObo?rel=0&hd=1" frameborder="0"></iframe>[/YOUTUBE] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hew53NyAObo |
[youtube]Hew53NyAObo[/youtube]
[ youtube ] Hew53NyAObo [ /youtube ] |
Cheers Nard!
HAD A PROB! somehow i stripped a brand new pinion and chipped a tooth on my spur! Dont know how it happend as i was barely moving!!! I think my mesh must have moved when i put the new pinion on!!!! DAMN! anyone know a cheap place to get replacement spurs for a spider diff? |
Jah, what gearing are you running and what temps are you getting on that 1520? Trying to figure out if I need to go the 1520 route or just stick to my 1518.
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i took your advice on the arms as well jah, they're on the way.
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helped you out on your thread... my ideas should help you mount and find the space you need for fitting the fatty 1520 in the carbon chassis.
You knw i had probs fitting the 1520 in my chassis and had to grind a bit off the alloY tvps as it stuck out too much! |
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I am considering gearing it up a little more... or just leave it as is for 9s...??? |
[align=center]Due to not posting in a while, i thought i would update you lot as to what is going on and what is to come etc...[/align]
I have been running my savage and having a lot of fun with it... The centre diff is holding up and performing nicely with the new 500k oil. and the 40c turnigy lipos are awesome, as well as some nanotechs i have too... Here is a teaser vid from the last meet i was at... Youtube Teaser Bash Vid [align=center]Here is a picture from the day too... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...ageXXLJump.jpg[/align] Anyway... my plans at the moment... [align=center]As it is winter here... i can no longer wrench outside as it is just tooooo cold... So i have been making a new workspace in my garden... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...0-27124325.jpg How i set it up on the inside http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-03172209.jpg[/align] So at the moment... i am still trying to see what i want to do, and get everything built correctly for the XXL Savage... As the new MMMHV (12s version) is not available yet and i have a feeling it wont be available for the next couple months due to the 8s version being released first... I have decided to tear the truck down COMPLETELY AGAIN and get all the alloy bits re anodised in Orange or Gold (most prob orange) Also the reason for this rebuild is because i am building a second savage... I am starting to miss the Standing Back flips, quadrouple back flips of jumps *and the crazy hecticness that a stock length savage flux is known for.... So i have starting piecing a savage together out of all my spare bits, and fell a little short. This is why i am going to take bits off the XXL savage and purchase all new bits for the XXL so it is shiny and sparkly once again and ready for 9s power!!!!!! Plus it is NO LONGER POSSIBLE to jump the XXL... It is just a little too heavy, and too long, resulting in annoying arm breakages etc... So it will just be a handling, speed machine and the stock flux will be my hardcore basher.... [align=center]So this is where i am at currently.... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-05162207.jpg[/align] I will be keeping this as stock as possible, but will be doing the usual BP upggrades... I was going to buy some more BP Diffs but i will just take them from the XXL Savage and use HD Diffs in the GH Bulks as frddy from HPISF has been using his old stock HD Diffs in the GH Bulks with Much success as there is no flex... If they fail, i will just change them eventually... But this is one way to save some money in the mean time. Need some integy rear hubs and i may stick with plastic front hubs on the basher for now... But ill see... What i am also considering at the moment is a flat base chassi for a savage... It would be awesome for racnig purposes for LCG etc... but i am doing it to make my life easier... as i said this will be a hardcore basher, and things will go wrong..., we all know how hard it is to work on a savage tranny and change a pinion if something goes wrong... so i thought a flat chassis would make things simpler... AND MOST OF ALL... UNIQUE! This is what the design is like at the moment... Thanks to the offset centre diff, the balance of the truck is perfect bringing the heavy lipos closer to the centre... These are going to be manufactured for people who are interested by a member here... The one pictured below is of stock length, but there will be an XL length version available too if im not mistaken... If you are actually interested, PM Me and i will pass a message onto the talent. [align=center]http://s6.mojalbum.com/flux-truggy-f...m_18269249.jpg http://s6.mojalbum.com/flux-truggy-f...m_18269199.jpg[/align] The only difference is that... the servo will be laying down, and a custom mount will be fitted for the ESC to sit above the laying down servo. What do you think... and comments are welcome!!! |
i see some serious chassis flex there. hope theres a top plate. if you get it strong enough, i predict some big fun is about to happen :yes:
nice jump pic by the way |
Gdot, thanks for the input...
Chassis flex? the braces are there to prevent that... and top plate? do you mean for the centre diff??? there definitely will be one for the diff.... Can you descibe a little more pls |
the tvp is so strong because it transfers hits all along the vertical, but the flat plate won't do that. theres not enough vertical members to take the stress, so it flexes all over. i would not want to jump high and mighty with what you have there. a long top chassis plate from front to back and diff top screws would be a major help with that. thats what i mean about top plate. just as an example my e10 has a flat chassis, onroad, and the b10 is the same but buggy version, so they added a flat top plate over the center section front to back, and it's nice and strong. same as my SB academy buggy. and this is going to have more big wheels and stuff than a buggy. just sayin
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That is a pretty typical truggy design. Why not just buy a truggy? Trying to race with a Savage, unless its against other MTs specifically, isn't a really great idea. :)
Also, that design is missing the front kick-up. Thats important as it adds caster to the front axles. Otherwise thats some nice design work! :) |
Because i like my savage :) and thought something different would be kl.
As i said, i wasnt going to race... i wanted a flat chassis like this for ease of maintenance... savage trannys always failing with brushless setup and requires tvps to come off to gain access,etc... I was only going to bash this hard.... The kick up on the front would be carried out... i know it isnt showing on the design... but it has been taken into account... Gdot have you got any pics of your b10 with the top plate so i can get a better idea as to what you are talking about? THANKS A LOT! |
Ah, obviously I misread it. :)
There are any number of designs with a top plate. Essentially its just a small plate that runs from front to rear. Essentially you could put one that runs from the front bulk head attachment across the center diff, attached to it, and then to the read bulk head attachment. Essentially making it sort of a "twin horizontal plate". As I said, every truggy on the market is built like that your diagrams, however there is some flex in the chassis; mostly built that way to allow chassis to flex for traction purposes (i.e. racing). I know I've bent a few chassis braces on my RC8T conversion with bashing. So by either adding to, or replacing, the chassis braces that you have you would end with up with a stiffer chassis, theoretically. Stiffer chassis is probably bit better for bashing. You could also turn up the sides; see the front chassis of the Baja 5B/T. This would strengthen the chassis too without needing the top plate. Would reduce the ease of maintenance somewhat though. Most truggy chassises I've seen do have a slight kickup along the sides of the chassis. |
Cheers for the help bud!!! Some helpful info there... Obviously the existing chassis would need to be widened so the edges can be bent up to increase rigidity... I would prefer to do that, than adding a top plate... Maybe the central braces should be thicker and larger to deal with the flex....
Thanks for the input!!! |
like this one is what i mean:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...s-img_0821.jpg and heres the SB i have http://www.rcinfos.com/2006/2006_02_...0/P1010088.jpg the idea is the horizontal plate pair, like zero said. stronger than the braces, and maybe easier also |
Thanks for the images... defintiely does look stronger seems like a good idea!!!
Cheers again guys!!! |
I like it. I think what have done is great. I like the bracing you have designed a lot. I think the other guys underestimate you and your parts. Go with it.
I truggified my Maxx as you may have noticed. Its one sick basher. I'm sure yours will be as well. I think this is one of the sickest builds! Great video too. -Zack |
dammm... looks sweet!
Whats with the hyper wheel on the xxl? ;) I forgot i had on of those SB buggies under my bed! must dig it out... do you bash it? that bash was great fun josh ;) gotta do it again soon :) |
The only comment I would have would be in regards to the contruction of the chassis braces.
The "dogears" that you have attaching the bulkheads to the servo top plate, there are two holes for the bulkhead screws, but it looks like one hole to attach the servo top plate. If this is attached by a screw, seems like you are creating a pivot point which would play havok with the braces. This may just an artifact of the drawing, but I could see how it would make the machining much easier. Also, have you considering using a different servo saver rack? Perhaps you can use one from a truggy that points outward instead of inward. The servo could be turned outward or a laydown style, and free some space in the center so you don't have to have that arched chassis brace. Truggies usually have adj ackermann plates too, which is always nice. The shed looks really nice. I wish I had more space like that for my stuff. Instead, my RC stuff has spread like a blob over increasing area of my basement workshop. I really need to sell some stuff! |
BTW, what program are you using to CAD everything? Solidworks? Is there a simple freeware version that you know of to draw things out?
Looks great |
:lol: Racing R/C with special brownies! Great! :lol: Doesnt get much better... :yes:
This is a sweet build you got and nice workshop! That is sweet you have so many people to bash with... |
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caz - thanks a lot bud! But i am liking the idea of the top plate now... ill see how it goes...
Yep saw your maxx! Looks awesome!!! not a fan of maxxs but definitely impressed by yours! Joe - your the first person to notice that... i dont know why i put it on there temporarily why i took the pic.. Yep next meet in december!!! getting the flux ready for it!!! Finn - Thanks for pointing those things out... Firstly i am going to say, that i cannot take credit for the drawings... I wish i could use cad but its not my work... i am just helping a guy who wants to manufacture these for people... Thanks for pointing out those important points regarding the dog ears and possible movement that may occur on the front steering assembly.... Ill look into it a little more... Maybe a top brace would eliminate any possible movement over the current single brace design... I originally said that a better truggy steering assembly should be used... but considering this will be offered to savage users, it would be better to make it work with savage parts so less parts need to be purchased... It should be fine as is... The servo was going to be positioned in a lay down style with a special mount for the esc to sit above it. It could be moved to the opposite side but it is for balance reasons... Zippy - thanks a lot dude... nothing like special brownies ;) dot - ill look into that... it looks as if it could work!!! Thanks for noticing! |
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