Personally I'd redesign the mount for attaching the front bulkhead. I'd eliminate the dogears and just make a single bar that goes across both of the steering supports and as part of that the mounts for the bulkhead. This way you could manufacture one bulkhead top piece. In the front you use the steering supports, in the rear you use two machined supports. That way you manfacture less custom pieces. With a top-plate that attaches to the front, center diff, and rear rear I think it'd be solid.

So you'd have a chassis plate, top-plate, two bulkhead mounts, center diff mount, and set of rear bulkhead supports to machine. There are probably any number of existing servo mounts that could be used.

I'd probably also suggest going with a more standard truggy diff mount and not the flux style motor mount. Otherwise you need several different versions for different diameter motors. With a standard truggy mount, you could include a cradle for the rear (see FLM's flux motor mount) that would get mounted on the chassis for support of the rear of the motor. Seems it would be easier, and cheaper, to include several for different common motor diameters.

LOL, you're right. I was thinking back to an idea I had trying to turn the arm 90* instead of 180.

The point remains tho about the other issues

[align=center]Small update and some carnage!

I am just rebuilding my stock length savage at the moment... i thought i would wait till the MMMXL before i put the XXL Truck back together...

I found some Rear Diff destruction!!! when rebuilding the truck! I knew there was a problem with the rear diff, but had just thought the bevel and spider gears had stripped... CHECK THE PICS!!!![/align]

[align=center]Now i have done a lot of damage to the savage in the past... but i have no idea how i have managed this.... i think it happend after a standing backflip on concrete... i think the diffs were not perfectly shimmed as they were shimmed for alloy bulks, and i had just put them in the stock plastic bulks... Here is what happend!!![/align]
[align=center]
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-19234842.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-19234907.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-19234944.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-19235004.jpg

[/align]
So i am finishing the truck off now... And hopefully it will be done soon and ill get some pics up...

Thats a fubar if I ever saw one!

hot dang you killed it:neutral:

I could see that from your XXL Savvy but from the stock length? What are you doing out there?! lol

I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT HAPPEND!!!! the diff was not shimmed correctly for the plastic bulk, but how it grenaded i have no idea!

I really doubt it had anything to do with shimming. I suspect it was just a defect in the material; it happens.

What motor do you have in it now?

im running a 1520 sparky

Some Updates & Images and progress

Centre diff/mech brakes and motor relocation

I had to put the centre diff and motor relocation on hold just for an extremely short while. I cannot use my existing TVPs as the 4mm alloy plates are causing problems while mounting.

I have chopped and drilled to many holes in my TVPs that they seem a little weaker.
I got two side plates made up which will go over the existing tvps...
They will be anodised in black so you should hardly notice them. And considering the lipo boxes cover them basically, they will not really be noticed.
Having these new plates, means i can now remount all my internals exactly how i want them and wont be limited to where i am available to mount them.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...87/flux5t1.png


Next update
LST HUB MOD

I am working out and currently doing an LST 2 Hub conversion.

Everyone knows that the Savage Hubs are at very best OK. The two bearing setup is weak ....

The LST conversion offers the possibility of running 3-4 bearings per hub!
Offers increased width without the need for extenders.
The Use of CVDs (no more shafts popping out of axles)

In order to get the lst hubs to fit the savage arms, only minor sanding of the hubs were required luckily!
To get the CVDs to work with the diff... i am using vorza diff axles
some pictures of me mocking up the hubs...


http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...2-18154616.jpg

Note where the hinge pin is in the pic below
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...2-18154629.jpg

The hinge pin needs to sit as close to the bulk as possible to allow correct distance for CVD to work
I measured this to 6.5mm wider than stock
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...2-18154642.jpg

Increased width over stock
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...2-18154719.jpg

And the bulk braces being made up.
2x 4mm thick 7075alloy and 2x 5mm thick 7075alloy
The lack of bulk support shouldnt weaken the system as the braces are now thicker and made from much tougher alloy.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...kheadbrace.png


Attempt at Bulletproofing my diffs more.
You can find the build for my BP Diffs here...
I basically used an entire HPI Vorza Diff but used the Savage BP Ring and Pinion.
Means you can use 2x 8x16x5mm bearings.
Stronger, thicker hardened internals.
Shorter axles to work with LST CVDs

Loads of comparison pics etc...

Page 1 of rebuild - http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...9&postcount=74
Page 2 of rebuild - http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...0&postcount=75

What is the diameter of the LST axle? That looks bigger, but pics may be deceiving, than 6mm...

They are 8mm..

Damn, I meant 8 instead of 6... so they are same size; bummer, was hoping maybe they were bigger, say like 12mm. :|

Why would you want axles larger than 8mm???

To run 24mm Baja 5B/T/SC hubs without needing a 4mm sleeve.

Hmmm that is true... but i guess ill just use the 23mm hexs with some alloy tape around it to fit the baja tyres eventually... unless i can get the 24mm hexs to work with these cvds?

My shock towers arrived today...
Im getting all my alloy pieces together before they go off for anodising :)

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...2-21102221.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...2-21102510.jpg

You could. You would need a 4mm sleeve that goes over the axle, then you'd need to drill a 4mm pin hole for the 24mm hub pins. The 24mm Baja hub is a through the hub design with the pin, so the current pin hole is too close to the hub. See my Savage 5T thread for what I did with the Savage XL axles, something very similiar would need to be done.

Well there are 24mm hubs for the Savage X from HPI (http://www.hpiracing.com/press/102530.html) that are better than any of the junky 23mm hubs out there (ProLine and Integy are the only ones I've found and been able to get ahold of for the Savage axle; but didn't the Losi monster trucks start using 23mm hubs? So maybe you'll have better luck with that!). Dunno if they will fit without issue on the Losi axles. My big issue with the Savage axles was that the pin hole is right next to where the threads start and its a weak point that kept breaking.

tower looks great

ill take that all into account zero... Im going to stick with my alloy Spis for the time being... and will have to think about it when i decide to go baja...

Finn.. the towers are awesome! Very well made and exactly the same as stock. I KNOW I KNOW... Alloy towers have no flex... But remember they wont take any impacts as i have my nylon cage protecting everything :)

The LST2 axle also has the pin go through the hub - I have used regular Pro-line 23mm hexes (on my Muggy) and Pro-line extended 23mm hexes (on my large scale buggy) and both have held up with no problems. I wrap the extended hexes with Al tape to fit 24mm hex wheels.

I know that some people don't think much of Pro-line hexes - but the ones I've used (with the pin through the hub) are very solid, imo. (My extended hexes have survived many 19lb buggy cartwheels)

Good info; the Savage ones do not have the pin through the hub, and seem to be of softer grade of aluminum and combined with the bad lightening attempts, end up being very weak... see my Savage 5T thread for the results. 24mm Savage hubs are definetly much better, but they still have the tiny and short pin.

But this makes me wonder if going to the Losi hub, with 23mm through the hub design, might be a better option.

What shock tower and bulkhead are those?

sparky.... they are the GoldenHorizon Bulks and GPM Shock towers.

I would never run alloy towers unless i had a roll cage to take the impacts... otherwise these would just bend in a bad landing and most prob ruin the bulkhead too

LOOK AT THESE BAD BOYS SO I CAN GET MY HUB CONVERSION DONE!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...y87/braces.jpg

made from 7075 alloy! top ones are 5mm thick and bottom are 4mm thick!!!

Dejan at Alza Racing Made them for me! TOP GUY! TOP COMMUNICATION!

amazing :D

i may have to draw up some stuff for him to do for me :P

any chance of some prices?

33 Euros!!!!!!!

Looks good, nice to see my idea made properly on a cnc!!!

I still need to get a set of the vorza cups and finish the cen setup. No time it seems, work is too busy!

I want some pics of the assembled bulks with the hubs!!!!

Looking good Jahay!

Thanks linc! You know it was all you with the initial design! and measurements to make it all work

they are going for 33 Euros! so something to consider...

Will get the pics for you linc!!!

I still need the LST CVDs and upper arm turnbuckles...
I keep losing the auctions on ebay for the cvds... and just waiting for responses regarding delivery to the UK for the turnbuckles

I like that design a lot. Very slick. I think I would prefer the front screws to go all the way through though.

the screws that hold the rear brace and pin keeper are in danger of getting pulled off as your wheel gets snagged by something. the brace in front is not enough to keep your arm from getting pulled back as you do not have the plastic mid section anymore to reduce the movement of the arm. ( can't tell by the pictures tho if you left enough of it to partially support the backward movement of the arm.

you can either drill out the screw holes the whole way through the bulkhead and use long 4mm bolt through the rear front brace that goes all the way through the rear brace and pin keeper and lock it up with a nylon lock nut, or put longer 4mm machine thread screws in the rear brace/pin keeper that goes about 15-20mm into the plastic bulkhead. use only high quality bolts as you would not want to deal with getting broken bolt out of the bulkhead.

I think he should be fine, the plastic won't do all that much anyways, aluminum bulks might yes, but most truggies are designed more like this as it allows the adjustments to the caster, etc.

However I think the idea of the 4mm bolt that goes through the bulkhead probably isn't a bad idea either. Then again, until it actually breaks, its not really an issue.

it might damage the pin holes and the rear brace if it fails, no matter what material they are made of as of the high leverage and the pin strength.

here are pic's from my 2007 setup.
http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/6559/mynd039wq5.jpg
http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/6304/mynd040rn2.jpg

The New Braces Arrived Today.
I am very impressed with the finish product! Definitely exceeded my expectations for the price i paid!

These are not the final pictures. Just a test mount to see if i would have any problems with the CVD reaching the diff output axle.

Everything works perfectly! My new Alloy New Era Hubs will be a nice touch to making my truck more reliable as it gets heavier, and being able to run 3 wheel bearings, will allow me to run my full offset wheels a little more reliably without battering my bearings.

Also the widened stance by roughly 1.2-1.5cm is quite nice.. ill let the test pics do the talking

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-01203428.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-01203450.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-01203533.jpg

The Brace Kit, Savage lower arm, LST Rear Hub & CVD installed. Upper arm is short. Waiting for longer turnbuckles.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-01202118.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-01202214.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-01202024.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-01201940.jpg


As you can see the CVD sits perfectly in the cup
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-01202406.jpg

Once my truck is entirely rebuilt. I will be doing a full review of how these hold up.

Now i am waiting on just a few my parts before all my alloy goes off for anodising.

As i am getting my Bulks and Shock towers Anodised Red. I am considering leaving my braces the natural colour to give it a litle contrast....
What do you think???

One word come to mind when I see those braces "BEEFY" damn they look good! As for anodizing,I'd get it all done up,make it look more like the factory designed it that way.--josh

Thats a great idea man!! The pin outside of the bulkhead looks kinda weird to me for some reason but looks like it will do what it's supposed to. Hope it holds up for you - let us know how it does!

Oh and the purple on that bulk needs to go :lol:

HAHA Thanks guys! Wait till it is all anodised in red :)

Look at what else has arrived through the post today :)

Just pictures for now.. once i am ready, a new entire rebuild thread will be created :)

MASSIVE THANKS TO DEJAN ONCE AGAIN!
Created a custom diff/motor mount setup for me!

It looks very strong and robust, and will handle the 9s power thanks to the third mounting point on the motor side of the mount!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-08080800.jpg

Some other alloy bits and pieces which are all going for anodising very soon :)
I will have pics of things mocked up later today

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-08080949.jpg

My new esc plate.... BUT YOU MUST BE THINKING... it is way to big for an MMM??? ;)
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-08081122.jpg


BECAUSE...
It will be sitting this bad boy 12s controller!!! I ordered this from the states! and it arrived at my door in london in 5 days! NO CUSTOMS OR ANYTHING

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-08081158.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...3-08081231.jpg

Thats it for now...

SO MUCH MORE TO COME!!!!
Some mocked up pics will be coming shortly

Looks awesome! how thick is the mount? cant wait to see mock up pics..

Hummm... can you motor brake with that Phoenix ice HV ESC?

Looks good :)

I believe no motor brake as this is air esc. That is why he has the holes for mechanical brake on the diff mount.