Which bodies do you guys suggest? If I do get the FLM chassis will I be able to mock up a LST body?

Josh :028:

If you are getting the extended version, there is an extended ford body that Mike sells. Otherwise, if you're looking for a crowdpleazer type, the Revo 3.3 pleazer would work, which I'm sure Mike could get for you as well.

I use proline LST2 body on my FLM maxx and it fits perfectly u can check pictures on my web (i got couple on this forums in gallery - http://www.rc-monster.com/coppermine...l_DSC_0099.JPG

What would be the least expensive method to upgrading my differentials. I'm in need of some cash and I need to sell of my 7.5 Buggy Differentials which I never used and are brand new (PM Me if your intrested).

So something like RRP Diff gears or something?

Josh :028:

Well, Not sure what you can get for those diffs, but I'm assuming its about what it would cost you to upgrade using RRP gears and aluminum cups and such. I would simply use the diffs you have with FLM Hybrid bulks. If you don't want, don't have, or can't get CVD's, theres a little mod to make them slider compatible.

I have CVD's already. I'm just looking for a alternate method (AKA cheaper) to upgrading my differentials.

It's been running through my head if I should sell the E_Maxx or not.

Josh :028:

IMO, use what squee said, otherwise you are looking at getting new diffs anyway. If you use the stock diffs with cups, you still are forking out the dough for those as well as aluminum casings. Just use the 1/8th diffs. Get the hybrids...the cost would be cheaper.

yes do the slider deal this is what is am doing it is cheap yet very effective sliders and knuckles new areunder 50 with shipping on ebay for both of them and they are more realiable than mip cvds IMO because i have heard of people breaking mips but not the sliders

Some here have had success with the MIP's. Also, could we get some punctuation? It would be easier to read what you type.....:018:

i know some of you use them with great ease, but i was just saying it is rarer to see broken sliders than broken MIP's. Nothing agenst mip i just recommended it becuase it was cheap and works great for the price. (Sorry about the puncuation just woke up)

It's all good! :)

josh -

not sure where you're at on your build, but if you're serious about the powerstrokes, don't get the RPM shock towers. because of their flexibility, the powerstrokes put unequal force on them causing them to flex away from center. (the bypass shocks don't put the same amount of pressure as the outside coil-overs). i now have to find different towers, and i'll prob. go with the FLM's.

just a heads-up.

So should I go with DUH Engineering shock towers? If I do, would I just throw out the entire Powerstroke idea and hook up some 1/8 Buggy shocks?

I'm debating about cracking open the bank account.

Josh :028:

right now UE has the RacerX Knucklehead shock towers half off - $35 for 2, and i believe they're 7075 aluminum. i ordered a set last week because of the price. don't throw out the powerstroke idea - they're great shocks!

here's a link to the knuckleheads:
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/10102.html

I would go for FLM towers. That and Powerstrokes will make a GREAT setup.