soldering ?
 

I have a simple soldering question. I have a 12020 controller that has double wires for each connection. My soldering skills are basic, and I think it may be a weak link. Set up E-Maxx 12020/Feigao 7XL/ 14T pinion / 51T spur / stock diffs. I am finding that the motor skips at full throttle. I am suspecting it's the soldering.

1. Deans connectors - I twisted the two wires together annd soldered directly to the connector. A huge clump of wires to the little connector. WOuld it be better to solder a short single deans battery wire to the connector and then twist the other end to the two 12020 wires and solder?

2. Connecting to the motor. The wires on the motor are presoldered. I tristed the two 12020 wires together soldered them and then soldered the motor wire onto it. Would it be better to "sandwich" the motor line between the controllers and then solder?

Thanks!

batteries - 14 cell NiHI.

damon, did you get the MGM with dual wires on the motor side, and battery side? I did when I ordered directly from MGM. (didnt know ant better at the time) If you did, do yourself a favor and unsolder one set of motor wires and one set of power side wires. Which ever is easiest to get to, Its easy to do. I'll try to get some pics of my wiring on here.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2167/...6f5551.jpg?v=0
I used TRX connectors, but any will do.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2400/...971194.jpg?v=0
Those little plastic mounts were found at local hardware store in the electrical section for zip-ties, work perfectly for mounting the MGM and use the good 2x tape

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3293/...995180.jpg?v=0
Sorry for the crude drawling, This only uses 2 connectors for the series batt connection. Make sure to make the center jumper wire long enough to reach each connector on both sides of the batt, if you do it this way.

Hobbimaster, your set up is very nice! That looks like the new E-Maxx. I have the BK Warrior controller 12020. A single line would be nice and much easier. Can the warrior be converted to a single line?

My batteries are lined up in series like your drawing.

Yes, it the new Maxx. Is there any way you can post pics of your wiring/ESC? I'm not familuar with the 12020. I looked at some pics of it on the net, but all seem to have one set of motor wires, and one set of power leads.

I will send a pictures tonight - it's ugly!

Once again, thank you

Here are the pics. On the battery leads, you will see a black and red wire solder3ed together....it is not a mistake. The neg and pos wires are correctly together.

[attach]Attachment 4216[/attach]

Glitch may be the key word. Your radio antenna being sandwiched between all those motor wires could very well be the problem.

I wouldn't suspect the soldering if it takes off hard and only has the problem at a higher RPM, as most of the amps are pulled getting the vehicle into motion, not as much speeding it up...

Did it glitch before, or just start reciently? I see what you mean by wiring everywhere. You could cut the shrink wrap off and unsolder some of those leads, and shrink it back with clear 6 cell stick pack shrink wrap. But otherwise nothing looks as if as Drknow65 mentioned, the antenna wire being close to the ESC may be the culprit.
Another note, if your BEC circuit is being starved by the motor that will cause it to glitch too, some ESC's have a weak BEC circuit, some have had to add a capacitor or studder stopper to RX. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM1600

Thanks for the great input. I went out and ran it today, moved the antenna to the back. The jerking (I dont think it is cogging) is on the start. It will hesitate then go.

I had a UBEC on it and took it off and now have a battery pack going to the controller.

So I cna unsolder some of the leads and just run one lead? That would be much easier.

What do you mean with running just one lead? if that is about the controller; then no, the controller uses different powerboards; if you use only 1 lead instead of two, the controller can't deliver the current, since you are not using its full capacity.

What I meant is there are 2 positive battery lines, 2 neg and 2 for each of the 3 motor lines. So both wires have to be connected for the controller to work correctly?

Any pointers on how to solder two fat wires to the little deans connector?

Thank you! Damon

Well, you could use 5.5mm plugs instead of using the Deans connectors. Just make sure use heat shrink wrap the female plugs real good. Also consider using and one female 5.5 and one male 5.5 on the battery (and vice versa on the ESC) to avoid "polarity" accidents.

Deans plugs are great but as you mentioned small and a major PIA to solder two large wires to them.

BTW...I would advise against using only one each of the double wires. That is a hi amp ESC and it has double wires for a reason.

Thank you all for great advice. I spent a few hours resoldering today and used the sandwich technique. It was really challanging with the deans. It works GREAT! It was really jumpy from the UBEC, so I cut it off and put a battery pack on it, it is awsome. A little cogging, but it has never gone so fast! And the temps are no where as high as they were before. The ESC never broke 100, and the motor about 110 max with plenty of speed. Once again, thank you!