MMM problem
 

My monster esc have a problem. When I applying throttle motor runs intermittent and sometimes don't run. during that the red and green leds flashing on the esc . What is the problem? how can I solve it?

http://rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20020


Open your eyes :lol:

its stickied in the top of the CC subforum.

reset your trim and recalibrate

There's only one problem. In all those examples in the linked thread, it doesn't cover red and green, just red or green.

Unless red or green means alternating, and not either only one of the two colours ever comes on. If so, just ignore me. I'll shut up.

green and red light flashing on the same time. The link doesn't include that.

Have you tried reprograming that poor little guy.are you saying green flashes on forward,and red flashes on rev. If both flash at the same time i think you need to contact castle.

May even be your transmitter or reciver screwed try another if you have access

I'll try another receiver. both green and red flashing at forward full throttle.

HI again
I found the problem. I opened up the esc and saw that a little electronic part brake off. I can't find the missing part. Now I need your help to repair it by myself. I don't want to send the esc to Castle to repair because I live in Turkey and that will cost me much time and money. On the attached pictures you can see the missing part. Can anyone take a picture like that of his working esc. I'll look the local electronical shops to find this missing part.It's very easy to open the box of esc here is a description.http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...nster_case.pdf
Your help will be much appreciated.

I kinda doubt you'll find the part you need in your local electronics shop, and its even harder to make a good soldering job on the esc as Castle use special high temperature solder- more likely to damage the esc and surrounding components through the heat.


As it is, there are a few good pictures around this section-

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/P7190028.jpg

2244
T35HV

hard to make out, but thats what you're looking for, its in the bottom left of that picture, upside down. Maybe Castle can send you the missing bit, or you may be lucky and find it online, but I think you may end up having to spend the money to send it in and get it repaired...

it falling off may have fried something else, best send it in

Edit- Neil posted my pics :lol:
you bum.
Myself and my teammate had components fall off within 20 minutes of eachother...

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...010/hilite.png
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0719091832.jpg

Har har har... :mdr:

alport, your missing part was a tantalum capacitor for the internal 12V generator, 22uF16V. Find one and solder it to the PCB, pay attention to its polarity when soldering.

brushlessboy16, your missing part was a muti-layer inductor, around 100uH. My first MMM V2 had this component failed also, just failed, no broken off, it had an internal short circuit making the motor no any action(no spin, no beep) but the LED and Castle Link still work. Go find one that little component and solder it back on, get a wire wound inductor if possible, much more reliable.

Wow back to the cushioning issue in the bottom of the MMM case.You would have to land some pretty hard landings to do that.I have the 1st generation V3 MMM controler and have trashed on it and it stll works perfect.I use the Traxxas MMM mount bracket and thick 2 sided tape.

It's amazing how many parts Castle uses that we also use at work. We have a lot of problems with the Tant. caps shorting out. Next the Electrolytics will start pooching out.

We have a switching power supply that is made by another manufacturer and after 6 months to 2 years they fail. They are all low ESR. Jamicon and Hermei are the ones we have the most problems with, and switched to Nicholsen(sp) and stopped having problems. There are 3 470 uf 1 1000 uf and a 2200 uf that always fail at the same time. Although we still have a bunch still come in for repair that used the old caps before we found the problem. In the last 2 years we have yet to have a repaired board come back (with a problem), at least I don't consider a blown fuse with the spare right on the board a problem since it fuses the output of the power supply itself, so if it's blown it's another card and it's usually a Tant. cap or one of the other surface mount caps that are shorted.

Jeff

That is reminiscent of the problems with computer motherboards several years back. I forget the full details, but was related to the electrolyte formula being "bad" or something. Would work fine at first, but would fail fairly soon. Motherboard caps would start puffing or even pop (and that stinks).

Like peanut oil


Yup,

And what got us was that all of a sudden we had a rash of power supplies come back, then it was 10 to 15 a week. After reaserching it we couldn't figure it out the ones used were the same MTBF and temp rating (5K hours @ 105C IIRC) as the ones we use now. When we first started getting them in most were out of warranty, so we would replace the whole PS and send them back (to the customer) then we started getting them after 6 months or less. Then it was back and forth with our source and finally decided to use the other cap.

I remember having a couple of computer power supplies Pop on me, took them apart and had one that the case had completly came out and was rattling around with the "streamer" of the plates and paper in it.

My Daughters Barbie DVD player started acting weird and acting up so I took it apart and found a pooched cap 16V 1000uf (and her "Enchanted" DVD the only one she has ever "lost", not bad for a 4 year old), so I replaced it and it's working great now.

I haven't had a motherboard (cap related problem), but I don't upgrade my computer every 30 minutes either. Plus I usually build it myself using an Acer or my last one was a popular brand from Frys (can't remember the name).

I do a lot of tech support calls so I always ask the customers tech to check the power supply if I suspect it's the problem and ask if the top of the caps are flat or domed and if they see anything leaking fron the slits on top, although sometimes I have seen them with the rubber plug where the leads come out actually push the shell up over the rubber part.

Jeff

Actually I saw no reason why CC still uses tantalum caps in its products, they can be replaced by MLCCs or multi layer ceramic capacitors, which to my experience is far more reliable, they contain no liquid, no poly material, just ceramic and metal. They seem never fail unless you beat it with a hammer.