Is this a good emaxx braking system design
 

Made from t-6 6061 aluminum and weighing in at only 68 grams (.151 lbs), this e maxx braking system should work with little or no modification to your chassis. I don't actually have it yet, but I would like to hear your opinion on the design. I primarly made it to fit stock emaxx chassis, Ue chassis and torpedo/racebomb chassis. I'll probably find a way w/ the gorillamaxx as well. It is 2 inches long, and 1.375 inches tall. It compatible with the tmaxx braking system (braking post, braking nut). Only modifications needed for a stock emaxx chassis is to install a hex on the center drive cup. For the torpedo/racebomb chassis, there are 4 threaded holes for M6 screws (to provide very secure fit) that you will have to drill out of the lexan. It still a prototype, but it looks good so far. And you will have to program your esc to be foward only.
The purpose for this device is to eliminate a major percentage of stress on the esc. BK states (i couldn't find the post) that when the motor is put into reverse/brakes, it puts a ton more stress on the motor. If some one can find the post on this (where someone quoted what BK said) that would help alot. Thanks!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...kingsystem.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ingsystem3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ingsystem2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...gsfor-rc/3.jpg

Just so you know what you are looking at, the 4 holes on top are the m6 screw holes. The center hole is for the tmaxx brake post. On the other view, the center hole is for the braking nut, the two shapes surrounding the hole are for weight savings, and the two small holes at the corners are m3 holes for the pressure pad mount.

Looks very interesting. Although I'm still a little confused as to how it works. Does it work with the gorillamaxx single speed conversion, and go where the second half of the tranny was?

it works ideally with the gorilla single speed b/c the shifting servo is to be turned into the braking servo. But no, it goes where the reciever is (in stock emaxxes)

It will all become clear once I actually create the mechanism.

It could be a post from me, I keep preaching the very same thing.

I really have got NO idea how this thing works though..

where is it mounted on? You did a nice job on the drawing, but in my opinion it could be done a bit easier?

Same here , I don't understand how it will work on a e-maxx???

It mounts through the 4 M6 threaded holes when using

If i still own a gorilla, i would be able to make mounting patterns for it, but I don't own one anymore.

Do you guys know how the tmaxx braking system works? It's a little hard to explain w/o demontration. but i'll try and take a stab at it:

this goes through the center hole on the top side (top side is illustrated in the 2nd and 3rd pic). The extension of the hole covers the majority of this part for added support.

The device will use an extended version of This gold nut. The gold nut will be inserted into the large middle hole of the 1st picture

A hex like this will be placed over your cvd cup (i use the supermaxx one), then this will be place over the hex.

The two brake pads shown here will be screwed into the two m3 holes shown in the first picture

When this spins (from the servo), the gold nut inThis picture gets pushed out. Applying force to the brake pads, which cramp the brake disc and slow the car down.

It will all come together once I buy it. The thing about buying these custom parts is that it costs $135 for one, but then to add on another one it is only $10...so i will probably order 5 and see if anyone wants them.

I think I see where you're comming from. It sounds quite interesting.

I still don't understand. How is it controlled, by another servo?

There is no more shifting servo, the servo gets Y-harnessed with the esc into the throttle input of the rx. That makes the servo move back and forth when you hit the brakes/throttle. When the servo spins, the brakes activate.

this picture should illustrate my point:

http://i2.ebayimg.com/05/i/06/45/4b/81_1_b.JPG

will this require one of those highly expensive transmitters? the ones that can blend channels so pushing forward on the trigger operates a servo instead of the esc? or will the servo somhow be operated by the esc and/or reciever?

it wouldnt require one.

corretomundo.

This is compatable w/ any radio system.

You just need a Y-harness to connect you servo to the esc...then you plug the y-harness into into the throttle channel...thats it. The only thing you lose is the shifting servo, unless you get creative.

And you'll loose reverse. I've been thinking with the idea myself, but still want reverse. All I can think of is set the break's on the 3rd channel, but that would suck. Can't react fast enough to engage the break's on the radio.

It is a nice idea.

True, but if you want to save your esc, you'll have to lose reverse...no matter what tactic you use. According to that quote BK stated, reversing motor direction while still in the foward motion is one of the most stresful things you can do. And though it won't actually kill the esc, it will bring the esc one step closer to it.

I find I don't use reverse that much anyway.

The only alternate option I can think of would to be to use a tmaxx trans. That would work, but the tmaxx trans is far too weak for the torque of electric. And the only way to elimnate that problem is to buy a kit strong enough for electric... a foward only kit...:035:

wait, so what are you guys saying? i'm going to kill my esc by stopping? how long will this take and why am i only hearing about it now?

think of it this way:

Having foward-brake-reverse all on your esc can be compared to flickering a light. When you flicker a light alot, you drain tons of electricity and you will notice the difference on your electric bill. When you keep the light on constantly you will not drain nearly as much power. Same thing with the esc-motor, it will drain your batts faster, but more importantly it can damage your motor and esc.

To sum up the analogy, having foward-brake-reverse will last you, but having mechanical brakes installed will increase the escs longetivity. But I wouldn't say your esc will die because you had the esc do all foward-brake-reverse functions.

Email BK on the subject, or search around the posts (someone quoted what bk said)...that may clear things up.

It can happen, but it isn't a guarantee that it will kill your esc. You can program any good digital radio to break like you want it to before switching to reverse. It also come's down to how you smash on the brake's. Be gentle and there really isn't anything to worry about.

I have a question. If you'd be using a single speed conversion and mechanical brakes, why not just use a center diff with a motor mount? You could improve turning a little bit, and be able to adjust the front/rear brake bias, and this would be a lighter setup. The only thing it requires is a little cutting and drilling, although I realize this would be a bit difficult for those without a drill press and an electric saw (like a scroll saw). Overall, though, it should be less work than getting the brake thingy machined (IMO).

you have a good point metalman

But I ain't the one doing the machining. The center diff will most likley cost more wouldn't it? To get one of my braking units set up in a maxx would cost about $90-$100 (including disc brakes, hexes, and all other linkage). And it takes almost no time to install (gorilla may take some work though).

Picked up a new 8 spyder diff, send it over to mike for an adaptor plate, and design some center diff mount's in emachineshop who a friend cnc cut's out of high quality alum.

Total amount spend: under 100$.

Add another 40$ for custom length cvd's by rc alloy's if needed.

If you want this to be disc brake'd, you need a adaptor ring thingy for disc's on the output's of the diff and a system to activate the brake's, sorta like your idea. Add another 50$ or so for a quad disc brake set-up.

Can't get any better than this. Cept 2 speed. :004:

A brushless controller doesn't go in reverse when the truck is moving forward, i don't know where this comes from?

If you give full throttle and you slam it into reverse the wheel's will either lock up(mass + tire grip ~ higher than the motor can spin backward's) or spin in reverse. Done that a few time's with my "Fred Flinstone" set up.

There are controller's who need to be at stand still to be driven in reverse.

You may have something there, what are your gearing options (in other words what spur gears can you run). Got any pictures? What chassis you running? Is the center diff good for offroading? How does it hold up?

you could use some sence with the throttle finger sicco..

no, this is just like how the revo has 2 steering servos.


i dont understand why you would want one...

what are you talking about serum?

even the most basic esc's will not go into reverse for a set amount of time. something like 5 seconds most of the time.

Think serum ment my quad disc brake set up. I just think's it sound sexy lol.

I'm designing the whole chassis myself, just like my chassis im running now(flamemaxx). No idea how the center diff is going to work, but being it a 8 spyder diff, i'm not worried.

The spurgear will be a 51 t ofna mod 1. I'll post some pic's when I get the chassis done, but that will take a while.

The (t)rusty 'ol hacker competition esc will go in reverse when you got full throttle. Bad idea though, luckely I only did it on a wet road with no grip tire's. If you do that offroad, you'll snap the rotor.

oh...you had me excited. Back to my brake design I guess.

To all who think you need a high-end radio for external brakes. The Jr XR and XS FM radios (and airtronics maybe, not sure) have a feature for mixing the third channel with either the throttle or the steering and they run between 150 to 200 new, so you don't need a real high-end radio to really use it to maximum advantage

Minimum requirment is that you have at least a 2 channel radio (one channel throttle, one channel steering). Thats it. You can use the stock t/emaxx radio or any other radio on the market.