|
Another LST XXL Conversion
Hi everyone,
After following MC's XXL build since the start i bought a XXL roller and converted it. It has gone through a few stages so i'll give you a brief history. To begin with i converted it by using the losi conversion kit. I had many issues with this kit but the main ones were the motor mount and the battery tray. After that i made my own battery tray and placed it between the tranny and the RX box/steering servo. For this stage i was still using the Losi motor mount. I then made my own motor mount out of 3mm thick ally angle. After this i lost interest in my XXL and thought about selling it. However i thought about MC's build and decide i would do a similar build myself. So over the past 4~6 weeks (thanks school hols) i made a somewhat custom chassis. I know that many of the ideas used for my conversion (if not all) are form other people but i'm not sure if someone has done a build exactly like mine. I will start to upload pics soon as i will copy them from the original thread on a different forum. This is the original thread if anyone wants to read pages and pages of random waffle. http://www.ausrc.com/forum/showthrea...XXL-Conversion Thanks, B-M |
1st Stage
Motor: Losi 1300kv ESC: EZ-Run 150a Servos: Dual Ace 1015's http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040778.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040779.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040786.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040788.jpg |
Stage 2
Custom battery tray Still using Mech brakes Motor: Tekin T8 1350kv http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040130.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040133.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040136.jpg |
Stage 3
Battery moved to between Tranny and RX/Steering servo If these pics are too big let me know and i'll change them. http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040170.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040171.jpg |
My custom motor mount
1st attempt - Right side 2nd attempt - left side http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040444.jpg |
Here is where i started to think about doing some serious stuff (well in comparison)
Below is a direct copy so some thing may not make sense on this forum. ------------- well i have scrounged enough money from nearly everywhere to buy what i wanted. This means that i no longer 'need' to sell my LST XXL. So here is what i have been thinking. I could try and convert this into a somewhat truggy. Or at least lower the ride height, get some smaller and better tires and wheels, buy a better motor mount and play around a little bit more with gearing. For wheels and tires i am thinking that maybe some normal 40 series will be ok. I have enough 40's that i could run for about the next year without having to get new ones. For the motor mount i am thinking about getting a rc-monster revo comversion motor mount. Apparently it is a universal mount and will mount onto any nitro mounting holes. If i can find a place to get some decent sheet metal from i might try and make my own chassis and have it as i near complete custom build. I think though if i were going to do that i might need to sell my g-maxx. Hey LD, do you regret selling your e-maxx or not. I am just a little worried about selling it as i might regret it and it'll cost me a friggin fortune to make another like it, especially as the chassis i used has been discontinued. |
Another direct copy
--------------- well i just ordered a 2.5mm thick/thin sheet of CF. This will allow me to go through with my plans. Here is what i had in mind. Get rid of the tranny and install a CD using this mount LINK I will mount the CD on the lower chassi plate which i will make out of CF or 6061-t6 aluminium. For the batteries i will either mount them on the lower chassis plate by extending it past chassis rails or i will use some savage flux battery trays and mount them to the side of the chassis. For the upper plate it will have about 2 holes. One for the CD and motor and another for the servo and that is about it. To give it a lower stance i will try and get hold of some muggy towers as they make the shocks less vertcal and a little more horizontal. i have already ordered the 17mm hexxes and the wing mount so now i'll try and figure out how i' gonna do this. God i love school holidays. before i got into RC i would spend most of the hols inside watching tv and doing nothing. now i want to wake up earlier so i can go tto the shed and work on stuff/run my cars/ get out of the house in general. Plus by making all of this stuff myself i am learning how to do things rather than learn them when i'm in uni or something like that. Anyway that is my little rant of the day. --------- i might also try and do something like this to my e-maxx/g-maxx and use a CD rather than a tranny to lower the CG. my inspiration http://rc-monster.com/forum/showthre...=19881&page=26 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26070 http://thetoyz.com/forums/index.php?...hl=lst%20muggy and heaps more |
The start of the mock-up chassis
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040591.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040592.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040593.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040600.jpg The batteries pictured are 4s 5000mah lipo's ------------- more inspiration http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...=25581&page=15 |
Another copy
----------- hey, for the motor mount i will get the one where the motor mounts above the CD. As for the racing issue, i reckon i could get away with it as i can lock the diff and then if they say it doesn't have a tranny i'll just get another diff and diff mount and have the pinion driving the CD then that CD driving the other CD. I could then just put a 5hitty plastic case over it and say it's a transmission. Also i doubt i'll be racing this at proper events as it won't hold a candle to the e-revo's. I will have this for bashing and racing if i get bored of the e-revo. I am hoping the CF gets here tomorrow or friday so i can work on it over the weekend. Though everything is on hold till i get the CD mount which is currently out of stock. Also with this build i'll have to get some custom dogbones or get some extended diff cups. All of the stuff pictured above will be redone with CF. 2.5mm thick. The stock chassis is very weak and i would say not even tempered so i think the side rails are the backbone to the kit and give it most of it's strength. I havent ordered the alu yet as i might change my mind and get the 1/10' stuff as it's roughly the same thickness as the stock chassis. For the alu though i am sorta thinking of doing the lower centre plate with that or do a brace for the CF with that. This project is going to take a while and most of that will be waiting and thinking about how to do stuff. |
Got my cf sheet in 2.5mm 450mm x 500mm
here are some pics. have a look at the lower part of the sheet in the 2nd pic. I'm a little unhappy with the finishing job on the edges and how the weave goes crazy towards to bottom. http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040610.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040611.jpg |
|
Another copy
------------- I actually don't mind doing some of this custom fab stuff. I would of done shop/tech a/furnishing except you have to do what the teachers want not what may actually be of benefit to you. The only thing that annoyed me is that i don't think i stopped all the CF dust. I'm not sure if i inhaled any but if i did it wasn't much and hopefully it won't kill me...seriously. i really cant wait till the universal diff mount comes back into stock at RCM. Who knows i might just use the CD mount from my STe as it will give the car a lower stance and might look a little cleaner. --------- Now i have a few questions. 1) I am going to try and change some of the screws to metric as i hate imperial. So should i use countersunk screws and countersink them or should i use button head screws. ATM i don't think i need to have the upper plate completely flat so button head screws might work but i was wanting some other peoples opinions on this matter. 2) i want this to handle well when i finish it so i have 2 possible set ups. 1) mount the batteries on the side plates/wings and use a CD mount that has the motor on the same level as the CD.(like normal BL conversion mounts. (lower CoG) 2) mount the batteries on the upper plate and have a CD mount that has the motor above the CD. (higher CoG but closer to centreline of chassis) 3) should i reinforce the lower chassis plate with some 6061-t6 2.5mm aluminium? 4) should i use a CD or should i try and use a proper tranny like an e-revo/e-maxx one? ---- i think that's it for now but i'm sure i'll have more soon. |
Another copy
--------------------- I used the metal blade. It worked very well but unfortunately some of my cuts are a little wobbly. For the motor i am think a tekin 1700v combo. Mainly coz that's what i as using before and it was working well. I also have no other motors spare other than the 1717 but i don't think that'll fit. Ok, i'm gonna go with the upright CD mount. once i get that installed i will look at how i am gonna place the batteries. I could go with them on the wings or on the upper plate either side of the motor. I'd have to have a look at how much room i have after i put the CD in. With the driveshafts i will try and get the front one to work by placing the CD towards the front but for the rear one i'll need a custom one. Thankfully i can get them from RCM as well but i can't order it till i get the CD mount which is out of stock ATM |
Another copy
---------------- just tried to fit a PL bulldog truggy shell on it. If i have the batteries vertical (on their side) on the wings the body will fit if i squeeze it over, so it definately wont fit if i use the flux battery boxes. However, if i use the upright CD mount i should be able to have the flux boxes lie on their side on the upper plate. This will of course raise the COG but make the weight more towards the centreline. I think that is what i'll do. I should be getting the flux boxes tomorrow (thanks towie) and i'll see how they fit. But once again i am not gonna cut into the mock chassis until i get the CD mount let alone the CF chassis. I think for some of the screws i will have to countersink them as to have a flat chassis. Also i need some muggy shock towers and lower shock mounts. RCH have them listed on their website but seeing as the muggy is no longer available parts have dried up. The only thing i am a little unsure about is the rear dogbone. I will need to find one that is the right length or get one custom made. not sure how long that is gonna take and once again i cant sort that out till i get my CD mount. This weekend will not be a good one for me. I have my moogen but not the conversion kit, i have my XXL ready for the CD but no CD mount, and my hyper 9e that was supposed to arrive today didn't. Just a question to anyone in brisbane -> By any chance does anyone have a router table that they are trying to sell as this may make making parts out of CF much easier. If i can't get a router table i might just send the other bits and pieces i want made out of CF to carbonfiberaus as they have a CNC service but i reckon the price would be ridiculous. Hey LD if this works out and works well might you try and do the smae thing. I've been thinking about it and if i can get CFA to CNC some chassis' i could sell them. This probably wouldn't work out though. |
Another copy
=================== Just got some 17mm hexes and a set of flux battery boxes. These boxes are HUGE. I'm now not sure if i'll have a choice of placement as if i try to put them on the upper plate they will hit the front and rear assemblies. But once again i can't do anything till i get that damned CD mount. ============== ust finished doing the countersinking. I need to do it incase i have my batteries on the upper plate. ALos while at bunnings today i got a dremel router attachment. What it does is uses your dremel and turns it into a bench router. this means that it'll be much easier to replicate metal items on the XXL. ============== retty good. I bought a few different bits. the first one i tried was useless though i didn't know that until i got sick and tired af having to apply soo much pressure. I then got a different bit and it was excellent, there are only 2~3 screws that make a little bump. just put the front and rear ends on the chassis. everything lines up perfectly which is good. I then decided to test fit the body. The bottom of both sides of the body don't touch the lower plate. This could be resolved if i can get some muggy shock towers. I'll put a thing up in the wanted section. For the battery placement i am rethinking my idea of using the flux battery boxes as they are too long. I could just chop them up and then join them again somehow. If i think that'll be too hard i will just make my own using some angle alu, pick some up at bunnings today. Or i could get some propper battery boxes and use them. I'm not sure as i don't know how much room i have to work with ATM due to no bloody CD mount. HURRY UP RCM AND MAKE SOME MORE. I put some 40 series wheels and tires on and it looks wierd. the tires and wheels look so tiny against the XXL body. Though if i can get some muggy towers i can lower the body or use the bulldog one. this build is moving my XXL from the MT side of things to the truggy side. It's having a sex change as some might say... ============= I'm back to having conversations by myself...jks Today i cut some more bits out of CF. I did these by using my dremel router table attachment. It hakes it much easier to cut things that have weird shapes. PICs http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040655.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040657.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040658.jpg |
Another copy
============ Need help Hey, I am becoming worried about the lower plate. To use pretty much any type of motor mount i will have to remove the brace thingy that goes between the upper and lower plates. This is where i become worried. I am scared that on a big jump the CF will brek with the weight of the motor/CD and batteries on it. My plan now is to make a reinforcement plate that sits above the Cf lower plate, this will make the COG a little lower as it will effectively lower the batteries. It should also reinforce, go figure, the lower plate. My question is this, do you think it's needed and if i do make one what type of plate should it be, (Alu or CF / and what design / and what location) I hope this makes sense, my mind thinks it just got mindf**ked NOTE: THIS VIDEO HAS SWEARING, IF YOU DO NOT LIKE IT DON'T WATCH IT http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpMmU7AkDvM ========= Well after the loud noise of crickets chirping and the occasional tumbleweed i decided to go ahead and make the Alu plate. It is just a square plate that sits between the CF lower plate and the chassis rails. It lowers the lower plate by 2.5mm (go figure). Anything that will be bolted onto the lower plate will be bolted to both of them. That way i can remove one or the other and the other one will have the holes already in it. also with the batteries i am going to try and mount them to either the upper plate and/or chassis rails while still having them on the sides. I should be able to make a little more progress this week when i get an order in from AMAIN. ========== Had a busy night tonight. But i finally got the driveshafts done. Turns out i don't have to order any custom ones. Revo/Maxx CVD's are the perfect length, if you use two, and fit in the CD perfectly. The only issue is that at the dogbone end, where the bulge is, i had to cut away a lot of material, and i mean alot, these were some THS or something like that CVD's and the centre ones i bought are actually thicker at the dog bone end than the TRX ones so tomorrow i may be putting plastic shafts on my e-maxx sooner than expected. If i had the motor mount i reckon i could be driving this by the end of the week. This motor mount thing is really pi55ing me off. I am actually becoming tempted to use a hyper mount and just mount the servo and esc on the opposite side to the motor to somewhat counter balance it. If i did that though my COG would be at about the top chassis plate, maybe a little higher but not much ============ If anyone is interested the wheelbase is about 1/2 an inch longer than my MBX6T and the width is about 1/2 an inch on either side so i reckon that with half offset LPR's it'll be the same width. However if i put some half offset 40's on it it'll be heaps wider. Also i haven't gotten the towers yet. This build is starting to annoy me. ============ Got some of my goodies today. The body now sits much lower but i don't have to cut it. For the battery boxes; to mount them i will use some button head screws and some lock nuts. To do this i will need to add another plate to the lower plate section. This will mean that the wings are 5mm thick and some parts of the middle will be 7.5mm thick. I'm unsure as to whether i should make it out of alu or CF. it will get scratched to hell as it will be only a little higher than the rear skid. I am thinking i will make it out of alu and just make it so there isn't much material in the middle where it is already 5mm thick. ========== http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040700.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040704.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040706.jpg |
Just to fill in some gaps.
the centre shafts i am using are TRX revo CVD's. The ones that go from the diffs to the wheels. They are the perfect length however they have a little movement in the CV cup. I was originally going to have the motor mounted above the CD by using the RCM universal CD/motor mount. however this was in stock so i used the CD, motor mount and chassis brace out of my Hyper STe Pro. This gives me a very low CG but i am limited to using 1515'ish sized motors. PICS http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_P1040728.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_P1040730.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_P1040731.jpg |
|
In the above pic the screws and lock nuts holding the battery boxes (savage flux battery boxes) are protruding from the lower plate.
http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_P1040744.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_P1040745.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_P1040746.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_P1040749.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_P1040750.jpg So i ground down what was sticking out and had a little fun in the mean time. |
I have now decided to make my own motor mount and it should work well if i can make it properly. If not i will get someone to CNC it for me and it'll be perfect.
Here are the pics, 1) Existing lower Alu plate 2) Existing lower CF Plate 3) Either 2.5mm CF or 1/10" Alu 6061-T6 4) Either 2.5mm CF or 1/10" Alu 6061-T6 5) 6mm 80x80mm Alu angle 6) Either 2.5mm CF or 1/10" Alu 6061-T6 http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040752.jpg http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/P1040753.jpg More pics to come. |
|
More copies
============ Back to my new setup idea. I have some questions and some more info. 1) i have two options for the motor mount/CD mount. I can either have the motor mount separate to the CD mounts or i can have the motor mount act as the support for the rear of the CD. I am going toward the idea of having the motor mount act as the rear CD support. 2) I am also thinking of adding some extra strength to the motor mount. As the motor will be at least 25mm above the base of the motor mount i am thinking of having two triangles on either side of the motor. This will add some serious support to the motor mount while still allowing the motor to be raised and lowered fully. (i'll post up some pics to show what i mean). My question is; Can aluminium be welded? Does welding things add alot of weight (the weld)? Does anyone in brisbane, preferably someone from PHDR (easier to meet up that way) know how to weld (stupid question) and would you be willing to weld something for me? Also how hard is it to learn how to weld and also how much would a basic welding unit cost? I think that's it for now but i am tired so my memory is not all that flash ATM. ============== Long story short no sleep for ben last night. I was bored so i did some measurements to fin the min and max pinions for my new motor mount. If i run the 1717 i think i am limited to about a 12t pinion and i can go as far as about 30T if i want to. I have downloaded a trial for AutoCAD and it has helped alot. I did most of the measurements by hand but if i had've used AutoCAD from the start it would've been heaps easier. ============ The mount i am planning to make. The angle alu is 80x80 6mm , thanks Snap, the side triangle like supports will be made of 1/10" alu and will be screwed on with M3 screws. The motor in it is the same diameter as the CC 1717 and is at its lowest point. The big flat cylinder is the spur gear and the long thin cylinder is the diff outdrive. As i don't have the proper measurement for it i am using the bearing that is a little bigger than the outdrive. http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...9at65423AM.png http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...9at65442AM.png http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...9at65537AM.png http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...9at65558AM.png http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/a...9at65617AM.png ================= Just thought i might mention this here. LD wanted to sell his XXL and guess what... i bought it. I have some serious plans for this. I have ordered a mamba XL esc and a leopard 4082 1500kv motor. What i plan to do is run this motor or my CC 1520 with the mamba xl with a TDRC mount and with 8s lipo. This is another reason why i'm not doing my e-maxx chassis thing. =============== Well be prepared for another back flip. ...here it is... I have decided to have the motor mount separate to the diff housing/supports. This will make making the motor mount heaps easier and better IMO as pinions will be easier to use (i can explain further if you want). Also in the pictures of the motor mount i have used a 80x80 piece of angle alu but seeing as the CD will need to be in the middle of a 120mm plate i will need to remove some material to make it all fit. the idea will still be the same with the two triangles supporting the motor plate. Also for the rear motor support i will have the support posts mounted on the upper plate. My idea for this is to make 2 support plates. I will be doing one for the 1717 and the other to work with STD 42mm motors. This will mean that rather than the motor support supporting the motor in one little place it'll be supporting it through the whole lower half of the motor. not sure if i have mentioned this before but i will need to make a new upper plate as the current one is a little too weak where the current motor is and it won't look as good with the new setup as the new plate will. I will need to make a new CD upper support plate but this will not be connected to the motor mount as it wont be needed and will add useless weight (i hear some of you saying... what about the triangles...useless weight) but to me they are less useless. Also they should give the motor mount a good look as the two triangles will somewhat shield the motor. ================ Time for another late night/early morning speel. I am thinking about buying a mill as it'll allow me to make higher quality bits and pieces than what i can make currently. I know i will use this but to me it seems like a bit of a waste of money if i am the only one using it. So i have been thinking that maybe if i can make some other mounts for people then my purchase will be more worth it. Another option for me is to make my motor mount out of steel rather than aluminium. There are a few things that i am unsure of about doing this though. 1) steel is far heavier than aluminium 2) steel is cheaper than aluminium 3) Steel unlike aluminium can be welded with something other than a TIG welder. I am thinking that i will buy both a mill and a welder (most likely arc) as it will make me sell off a few kits so that i have enough money to buy both. From what i have read you can buy a mini-mill for about $600 and a ARC welder for about $150. This'll mean that i will need to sell off a few kits so if you are interested in buying one of my kits PM me and i'll tell you if it's available. i probably should've posted this in my blog but CBF'ed ================= That's it for the copies. If you have any questions feel free to ask and i'll try to answer. Thanks, B-M |
Looks really BADA$$!!
|
Thanks,
It should look alot cleaner when i am finished making the new motor mount. Also i don't think i mentioned this here. When i am done with the new motor mount i will be running a CC 1717 motor and a CC mamba XL esc. |
1717 on 8s will rape!!!!
|
I won't be running the 1717 on 8s. Not even on 6s. I'll mainly be running it on 4s as i'll be racing this if it performs pretty well.
I may put the MMM XL in my other XXL and run it with a leopard 1500kv or CC 1520 motor on 8s lipo for some fun |
Can I interject young fella?
That 1717 on 4S is very slow. If you run it on 6S it's got a comparable RPM to that of a nitro & RPM means better speed. 1717 = 1580kv x 14.8 = 23384 rpm " " = " " x 22.2 = 35076 rpm I see you're running 2 packs, so, why not run two 2200mAh 6S still light & balanced yet superbly fast. Your choice, I just thought I'd throw you some ideas. Nice setup by the way. A little more complex than mine, but, I only made mine for fun & games. Very cheaply I might add!! Good luck with the build & keep the updates & pics coming. |
Yea what he said about the batteries ^^
|
I am sticking with 4s as i have heaps of 2s batts so for racing that makes sense for me. Also the track i run on is good for the low 30's in MPH.
Who know i may put the 1717 in my basher XXL and put in a 4082 1500kv or feigao 580l 8T motor in my racer. Or i can run a CC 1518. ATM i am running a Tekin RX8 with a 1700kv motor as that's the longest and widest motor i can fit due to the driveshaft. All the motor and esc combo are theoretical ATM and i'll test them to see whats best. Hope this made sense. |
Also with the current setup i am running a 11T pinion and that's about perfect.
|
Yes, sure does.
As I said, it was your choice & just some numbers thrown in from me. |
yeh no worries.
I am wanting to go with the 1717 as it has a lower kv than 1700 and this'll mean that the perfect pinion is not the smallest. Also the XXL is a big car and still weights a heap more than my ERBE so i want to go with a 1717. Plus i have it lying around so why not use it. |
Did you get it cheap from CC like me?
I actually bought a few motors that were heavily discounted, plus a few 1/10 packs & motors. |
No actually,
I bought a 1518 and 1520 from CC during the sale but i bought the 1717 about a week before the sale and paid $220'ish. :grrrrrr::grrrrrr: EDIT: I have ordered a slipperential for this and will be running a 52T spur and about 30~50K fluid. |
Just finished doing the CAD for the lower plates. All i have to do now is make the lower plates and also make the motor mount.
Here's my idea for making the plates. I did the CAD in scale so i printed out the plates and i'll glue them onto the alu. I'll then punch the holes and cut the overall shape. I'll then drill all the holes and everything. One thing though is i need more M4 CS screws and some lock nuts for them. I think i need about 10 screws and nuts. i should have some pics soon. |
Where did you get your carbon fiber from? What kind of dremel bit did you use to cut it?
|
I got my CF from carbonfiber.com.au (in australia).
I am using a carbide cutting bit in my dremel for the CF or just a cutting wheel. For the alu i either use a cutting wheel or a milling bit (i think??) |
Yeah, I've been toying with the idea of making my own carbon fiber chassis and plates when I get my XXL.
Was it hard to cut? Did it split? Did you seal the edges of the CF wiht super glue? |
I haven't driven my XXL much to be honest. It's just been too wet and i don't want to get all my elecs wet.
The way i had it set up before i wouldn't think the CF would split. The CF was easy to cut but i used a jigsaw for most of it. Yeh i sealed the CF with super glue. What i did was run a bead of glue on the edge and leave it for about 10 seconds then wipe it off. I also did this for the screw holes by doing a similar thing. |
Do you think the 2.5mm will be thick enough? If I measured correctly the stock XXL chassis is 3.5mm
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:28 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.