3.3 drivetrain for E-Maxx
 

Will the 3.3 drivetrain conversion or whatever its called hold up to brushless power in the E-Maxx? What other advantages are there of doing this conversion? Is it better than UE cvds? Will it work with 1/8th diffs? What about the new Traxxas cvd's can those be used in this conversion (will they be strong enough)?

Yes, the revo shafts are better than UE driveshafts. Metal driveshafts are solid and transfer power great, but it transfers it to the gears and any weak point in the drivetrain. The plastic shafts are great, they mellow out the hard drivetrain hits. If you beef the tranny way up, and the diffs, and the wheel hex's....you will then start breaking the UE driveshafts, where a revo shaft would hold up fine. Robin will tell you they are gold and his "analysis software" says they a 50 billion times stronger than anything ever made, but welcome to the real world...the revo shafts are better. :027: Same goes for any brand cvd, but since you mentioned ue....but the traxxas ones will be the same.

I would like someone try the new maxx cvd's by traxxas to see. The 3.3 should be fine, unless you put too much torque on them.
I run the UE cvd's with no issues at all. They have a nice quality, and the fact that they use hex ends instead of the pins, which is a big plus for me. I beat the crap out them too and have no weak points in my 8 spyder diffs. I would say, IMO, that the set up I have is pretty bullet proof.
I will say though that the 3.3 upgrade is a good alternative to using cvd's of any kind.

I'll second that. The UE's are the best CVD's on the market. The REVO3.3 shafts are great since they are cheap and "soak up the shock" as Bomb Proof mentioned in his post.

I'd like to see how the new Traxxas Maxx Driveshafts (the new steel ones) are built and how they compare to the UE 6 or 8mm cvd's.

BTW, When did the site change the requirements on the signitures. I had to delete most of my signiture to get it to work at all.

Not sure, but my smilies would not work in it.

Anyways, if the emaxx cvd's are anything like the Jato ones, they should be reall good. My Jato's take a beating like no other. They have never bent either, and I have gone into curbs sideways where you can hear the rim and tire "smack", and kept on going!

They look awesome in the ads. Having the dust boots is a godsend in my opinion. That's the downside to any CVD typically.

When you get the rest of the drivetrain built up enough, it starts over....
http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com/im...r/brokeUE2.JPG

not to mention, they wear out very fast. Revo shafts....all the way.

Benifit of Revo shafts...
The large diameter fixes the problems with the original maxx driveshafts, a hollow shaft is stronger than a solid shaft, and plastic is lighter than steel, dust boots, absorbs drivetrain shock, cheap and easy to get, they dont bend if a-arm flexes.

Benifit of Ue shaft
shiny, the UE followers will like you.

Benifit of BranD X CV shaft
whoever likes that brand will like you..

What brand of CVD is that Bomb?

Also the wear on the outdrives kind of blows too! U-Joints work much better in my opinion.

Not always true, much of this depends on what you hit, how you hit, speed, weight, and many other factors. Anything can break no matter what. IMO. I have Revo shafts break as well, not to mention any other part. And again, this all depends on what you hit, how you hit it, speed, weight, etc.....IMO, nothing is "bomb-proof", there are just too many variables to anything. .02

My shafts have hardly any wear after almost a year, but this is MY experience.

Not true. IMO, let's not go there again please.
It looks like an MIP...LOL

[quote=neweuser]Benifit of Ue shaft
shiny, the UE followers will like you.quote]

This is another out take from the Bomb-Proof hates Robin Oury monologue we're all quite tired of.

Sorry Bomb-Proof but I know several of us here are tired of hearing how much you dislike Robin. Bashing him hurts your credibility...at least from my point of view.

[QUOTE=Procharged5.0]Any vendor for that matter from any person. Product reviews are one thing, but bias is another. Just my .02, let's keep the peace is my only point....
I think Revo shafts are good as well as any other. They are cheap to replace, give absorbtion when needed. It's personal preference.

That was a Ue driveshaft.

So when you beef everything else up the breakage doesnt start over? But everything breaks as you say.....everything but UE??
This is how it goes..on an Emaxx
Driveshafts weak-upgrade to UE
Diffs weak- upgrade to 1/8scale
now idler gears are weak- upgrade to UE
1st-2nd gear,drive dog are weak- upgrade to ultrmaxxed
input shaft is weak-custom machine one w/stronger steel
wheel hex weak-upgrade to 23mm

Now....driveshafts break. It starts over.
I agree 100% everything breaks. If you can get something to absorb those stress spikes you can greatly reduce the amount of breakage. Steel doesnt give, it sheers.

I agree 100%, any vendor not just UE. People keep using UE as example, so I am also..I based my tests on UE. UE was the best example of a CVD at the time I was running the E-maxx, the "best you could get" Fill in the blank with any name brand you wish.


not exactly, true I dislike Robin, but has nothing to do with this. If it was RDlogics, I would say the benifit would be people who like RDlogics stuff would like the truck better.

Ok, upgrades are required for BL. Personal preference on what one wants to use.

thats a given. But the cycle never stops. Find a way to absorb the power and you wont break as much. Driveshafts are the best place to do this. Revo shafts have a limit, but its high up there....use em if it all possible.

I personally never had this "cycle" problem....my centers, drive shafts, and diffs have yet to fail me...I would agree there are things to do to stop the breakage with BL systems.

The 3.3 drive shafts are tough. But over time the joints on them stretch, but only in the rear. The fronts last forever. the good thing is if you keep your eyes peeled for them on ebay and other places you can pick them up real cheap. I found Killerhobies was clearancing them a while back and picked up 5 pairs at only $6 a pair. still only 30 bucks and thats enough to last a couple years.

Will the 3.3 shafts fit on 1/8th diffs? Do they use set screws or pins to attach? Should I get stock 3.3 arms or RPM 3.3 arms?

no they will not YET mike is comming out with revo 1/8 scale diffs that allow the use with sliders when he comes out with these he might sell the adapter to allow other people to use sliders with 1/8 diffs. Rene also posted hot to make a modification to use sliders with 1/8 diffs it looks like it will work but no one has tryed it here. (quote by coolhandcountry) The way I understand it is this. You take this part and cut the threads off it.
It will slide in the diff with out the drive cups. YOu then attach the slider.
Sounds easy enough but not sure how well it works cause haven't tried it yet.
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What about the a-arms? Should I get RPM 3.3 arms or Traxxas 3.3 arms?

As long as you use the 3.3 sliders, RPM all the way.

For the sake of this thread; Yes, you can use the 3.3 driveshafts on the 1/8th diffs. you need 4 extra output shafts from the revo shafts to make it work. (cut off the thread of the shafts that holds the wheel)

UE shafts are the best cvd's available. their big CVD-ball is the biggest out there. they use notched pins to keep the pins in. Bomb-proof; with your own technical point of view, you must admit that it's weird that a 3mm pin snaps sooner than a 2mm pin. (the pin that holds the gear to the output cup) The 3mm pins you broke are replaceable though. if steel wears, Plastic wears too. Plastic absorbs energy, while retaining its original shape, steel doesn't. Dafni managed to damage a U-joint on his revo shafts, and he is using mild-powered setups. Like you said; revo shafts aren't unbreakable either. Nothing is unbreakable.

Revo shafts are cheap to replace ue's will be a tad more expensive.

If you use plastic arms, stay away from CVD's. you will either break cups, bent shafts or break pins.

With a center-diff, the revo shafts won't give up on you. They look beefy in real.

I agree with that, but I suspect the 3mm pins are harder material (wild guess) or the 3mm were over hardend ( has happend at UE, not sure if this was the same batch). He offered to replace them, but it was the same time he was doing other things I didnt care for, so I didnt want them fixed, I sold any and all UE stuff at that point. So, it wasnt a big deal it may have been a free replacement I dunno.

Likely an isolated incident and one that can happen to any manufacturer. Even overhyped TOYota recently had to recall over 500,000 trucks due to failing parts.

My 6mm UE CVD's have been bulletproof so far.

No doubt they are strong, but my point was the Revo shafts absorb alot of shock, where the ue (or any brand) CVD transfer it more directly. Chances are the CVD wont break, something else will. Once everything else is strong enough though, then the CVD needs to be beefed up and the cycle continues. The revo shaft takes alot of the punishment and saves parts.

Got a question guys, will the center drive shaft of the 3.3MAxx fit the pinion of the lightning pro diffs?

By the way, i do agree that about the plastic shafts. better buy those shaft than destroy my diffs or any other parts which will be a lot cheaper to replace. power must be absorb somewhere, ideally the wheels but the drivetrain will definitely have its share....

the lightning pro diffs input is much larger so it wont fit. You can drill the plastic bigger and cross drill the input shaft though.

i thought so.....i was thinking maybe there is a way to fit it....drilling would make it weak....anyway maybe i could try it sometime.....

You could use Serums idea, it works well from what I hear. I personally know a guy that has done this with great success, but he only runs the HV maxx set up too.

Emaxx drive shafts
 

Hey, I haven't seen any ads for the new maxx drive shafts...do you have a link to them? Thanks.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4993

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4988

There they are!

Thanks. I am new to the whole monster truck thing...but been in the RC hobby since mid 80s. Mostly I run Losi XXXT MF2 and RC18Ts. But just recently I sais to heck with it and ordered an e-maxx and the FLM chassis kit. This is where I am in the build.

I have researching like crazy for MONTHS, for something to replace my revo plastic shafts. But in the end Revo stock shafts look to be the best, cheap overall shaft, EXCEPT for the NEW Traxxas SUMMIT shafts, Now they are the bomb ! but expensive.

I am running a custom made 1/5 4wd street missile on 6S.
My Revo's are holding well so far after 3 runs, I have done some Full throtle starts from dead stop where the car actually jumped inthe air and landed onit's side. the plastic joints show a very small sign of stretch, very small

only broken one shaft so far with Locked up Front and rear diffs and center tranny.

http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/s...H/SC030416.jpg