ElEcTrIc MaYhEm!
 

Got my first try with 4s (first 4s) on my new buggy (and first 1/8th ever). Sportwerks Mayhem Pro, Mamba max, 7xl, Maxamps 4s 5000HV. Holy cr*p, this thing flies! It is very silent too, alot queiter than my MT2 18SS conversion. At part throttle, you can hear the driveshafts clicking, but no gears or motor noise. At full throttle, it just makes a powerful whine! Whoo-hoo, this should really smoke some nitro but. The shear acceleration of this heavy (still less than 8lbs) buggy is amazing!

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1177473543

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1177473487

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1177473487

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1177473737

Thats really clean - nice job.

That's a nice conversion. The Turmoil was my first conversion.

What spur gear did you use? Did you have to modify it to fit the diff cup? If so, what did you do?

Here's how mine came out...

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0243.jpg

looks like a clean conversion. I like it. what kind of bec unit is that?

AAngel: I chucked the diff cup in a drill and ran it on sandpaper to fit into a kyosho 46 t spur, didn't need much removed.

gixxer: It is a Dimension Engineering Park BEC 6v

It looks great!! I am also actually converting my 1st 1/8 scale car right now which is also buggy. What kind fo speeds are you getting do you think? I am trying to decide between the 8xl and 7xl, yet I still want a lot of run time (8000mah), but still be very fast.

bdebde, didn't you have trouble with the bearing standoff on the spur being too high?

RC, electric buggies are capable of some pretty high speeds. In excess of 50 mph, but just like anything else, speed comes at a price. More broken parts and more heat. I usually run my buggy on a track and when running the 7XL gearing 14/46, I haven't seen a nitro buggy yet that is faster. At 12/46 it's still very fast and the acceleration is unbelievable. I've been running an 8XL lately though. It doesn't get as hot as the 7XL did and I'm getting a bit more runtime. I usually run it geared at 14/46.

There really isn't much difference between the 7XL and 8XL. With the 8XL, you just gear up a bit more, but have the ability to gear down too.

***RC***: Have not run it too much for top speed, gotta be about 45 i think.

AAngel: not sure what you mean about the bearing standoff? I did have a problem witth the screw heads not quite being flush with the spur. Ended up putting a diff shim on the outside of the rear bearing to get the screw heads away from the diff mount.
I am running 14/46 gearing right now, may go down to 12. Still gotta see what run times are like. I may get an 8XL as well just to give it try. Never hurts to have a extra motor, or different ones for different tracks

AAngel: Since you have had both a Mayhem and Turmoil, can you tell me what is interchangeble between the two? Looks like everything for the Turmoil will fit the Mayhem, except the chassis and center cvd's, is that correct?

I think that's all that's different. Not much difference at all actually. I'd just change the body mounts on yours so that you can use the better body and maybe swap the f/r cvds. The Turmoil cvd are the 45* cvd and bind less.

To tell you the truth, I liked my Mayhem better. I tuned my Turmoil's suspension the same way I did the Mayhem and it was pushing. I've been working on it ever since.

I almost got the turmoil, but wasn't sure how much farther forward the center diff was, and didn't want to have the motor too far forward. Then I ran across a deal on the mayhem that I couldn't pass up. I picked up the body mount today, the half painted turmoil bodies should be in next week. I do plan on getting the turmoil cvd's too.

And here is a quick vid

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I don't think that I mentioned it before, but it looks like your running a Feigao/Nemesis motor. There are optional aluminum center diff bulks. If you use these to fasten your mount to, it will be more rigid and help to channel the heat from the motor mount, through the diff bulks to the chassis and will get you more runtime before the motor over heats.

qbayle:

Thanks for the compliment.

I made the motor mount, it is just a piece of aluminum screwed to the center diff mount. I don't have any plans for it and don't plan on making any to sell. In fact I may get one from RC-Monster Mike as his work is real nice, and he does custom stuff as well.

The battery tray is a kyosho part, RC-Monster sells them (they may not be in the store, email Mike if you want one).

Motor; the XL feigaos are popular, but I am starting to think they run a bit too hot for my liking. Alot of guys on here are going with the Neu motors,as they are much more efficient. 1700 to 2000 kv seem to be the most popular

Pinions I have been getting here at RC-Monster. Gear for the speed you want (use BrianG's calculator), most are gearing for 35 to 40 mph for racing.

Spur gear is also a Kyosho part available here at the RC-Monster store, it is plastic and allows the use of non hardened (cheaper) pinions. Some have used the stock spur gears, but a hardened pinion would be required for that.

BEC is a Dimension Engineering ParkBEC. It was smallest lightest one I could find, but if running high torque digital servo, I don't know if it will be enough. I have no prob with my old Hitec605MG in there.

The biggest thing you have to do is get rid of the nitrocrap. The servo plate will need to be cut so you just have the steering servo mount and no throttle servo. And of course bolting on you motor mount and battery tray.

And yes, screw nitro, in fact I have never run nitro in 20 years in rc.


AAngel:

thanks for the tip, I had considered that as well, just trying to find one on ebay cheap so I don't haved to pay full price (those things are spendy).

bdebde, nice ride.

I never knew what your name meant until now, I watched the video with the 'That's all folks'.... classis. :005:

I got the name the first time I saw it. I love it.

Also bde happens to be my initials.

Yeah it clamps the endbell as well as supporting the back off that lloonngg motor.

Here is an update with the Lehner 1930/8. It weighed nearly 8 lbs with the XL motor, now it is a little over 7.5 lbs. I lost 5 oz. of motor weight and the RC-Monster heatsink. More on the Lehner later (perhaps another thread).

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1181433548

That is one nice system you have there, and who's heatsink is that?

Just a suggestion, what if you moved the MM over a bit more on the one side of the motor, for easier access and cooling?

Also, what BEC is that there? I have never seen that one before.

Heatsink is just a cheap Integy clip on.

Didn't want the mamba mounted on the dirt guard, still undecided if I like the arrangement. In fact, I removed the fan I had on it to put it there. I will have to see how hot it will get with this motor (should be less than with the XL).

BEC is Dimension Engineering ParkBEC 6v.

ICIC, how many Kv is the motor?

That parkBEC is small, wow. Looks like it at least has some caps on it, some good ones too.

Motor is 1930/8, 2613kv

ParkBEC

Bruce, I didn't like having the MM on the chassis either. I took some 1/2" aluminum rod and cut them about 1.75" long (or whatever works for you) and then drilled and tapped 5mm holes on one end and 4mm holes on the other. I used the 5mm holes to mount the rods to two of the existing motor mount holes. I then cut a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum plate that would accommodate the MM and punch two holes into it and screwed the plate to the rods and then used some good servo tape to stick the MM to the plate. it all looked like this...

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0243.jpg

Sorry, but that's the only pic I had of my Turmoil showing the MM mount.

I think that my standoffs were a bit long. You only have to make sure that the plate clears the chassis brace and drive shaft.

I even have some of the upper deck stand offs, that should work. Thanks for the idea Tony!

Good deal. If it turns out that they aren't long enough and you don't want to or can't work with aluminum rod, you could also use delrin rod. It's really easy to work with and is tough and LIGHT. I order stuff that I need quick from onlinemetals. They aren't the cheapest, but they will cut to order and ship pretty quickly.

I got a couple of chunks of AL rod around, but the stand offs would look better IMO.

I'm sure they will, since they'll have that factory look to them. I'm just fortunate in that I have some machine equipment left over from my last hobby that survived Katrina. It's nice having a metal lathe. I would have prefered that my lathe had drowned and my mill survived, but I have what I have. LOL.

These days, most things that I make are round.

I wish i had machine equipment, a milling machine and lathe would be awesome. I have to rough it, with drill press.

Does anyone know of a cheap 'benchtop' CNC machine? That would be perfect for this type of stuff (RC). I would be really interested in checking them out.

I have seen them on ebay from time to time.

Guys, if you've never done any sort of machine work, you may have the wrong idea about what is needed. I know that CNC is nice, in that you can draw something out and they just feed it into the machine, but I've done lots of work on a cheapie $350, made in China milling machine. Most of what we might do for our own purposes and one shot deals. We might make one or two of them. Most things are so simple to turn out that they don't need drawing up.

I do most of my work on the fly. When I start, I have a pretty good idea of what I need in my head, and I just mount the stock and remove everything that I don't need to be there.

Most of the smaller manual machines are really easy to operate and tooling for them is relatively inexpensive. Go and check out and be sure to also follow the link to minimill.com

You also have to take a look at littlemachineshop.com

My point is this. With what we spend on batteries, speed controllers, and motors, a mill is a small investment. If you are at all mechanically inclined, you should get a mill and just get rolling. I believe people doing this could only promote the hobby. It also gives you a feeling of self satisfaction when you do it yourself.

Yeah, I can't see any reason for cnc for hobby use as you say AAngel. I have looked at the small milling machines before and have borrowed a friends (he now lives farther away, rats). I have plenty of experience with using them at work as well (not at current job, rats again). And, to get the same quality work from a cnc you would have to spend much more than a manual unit.

were did you get your battery tray ?.

Hippie, that is a Kyosho Twin Force battery tray. Mike can get them for you.

Bye:018:

Thank's i was thinking about using something like that if i decide to give my mbx 5 another chance . This time using a single 4s pack instead of two 2s2p packs.

I got the battery tray from RC-Monster Mike.

I am using the same battery tray form Mike. It has been working great so far.

Sweet conversion. Very clean. Mine always seem to get more cluttered. Nice job. VIDEO!!!

BTW: How big of a battery will that tray fit? Can someone measure the inside dimensions of the tray?

Thanks! short vid towards bottom of page 1.

That tray will hold a seven cell ni/mh pack i believe. I know the length is 160mm, forget the width at the moment.

It is about 49mm wide. The whole thing is 160mmlike bdebde said, but Mike sent me it with small plastic cubes at the end to screw the gorilla maxx straps into. With these cubes, it is about 149mm long.

Pics o' the cubes?