Transmission
 

Hello,

New here but i have read a fair bit about mt owned a SS 4.6 and 1:5 scales but now have a thing for electric.

bought an E-zilla and loved it. want to go BL with my new project a Traxxas t-maxx (bought a secondhand for bout 150 USD):027: :027:

Now i want to know something about the trans for this car.

I had the 2.5 T-maxx trans but sold it.

Now however i want to buy an e-maxx transmission but my question is the following (couldnt find it on the forum) what transmission can u use besides the e-maxx one???

can u use an 2.5 t-maxx or a 3.3 maxx transmission without to much mods ??? or do you need to make friends with your dremel ????


Anyways thanks for your advice:036: :036:

Welcome to the forums! You are in the right place fo tech info!

All three will bolt in.

If you are using electric motors (brushed or brushless) install the emaxx trans with RC-Monster steel idler gear(s). That is "THE SET-UP" to use for bashing and/or racing. If you are racing only (assuming you are running brushless) you can also use a gorillamaxx single speed conversion which is based or the E-maxx trans as well.

To add to that "the set-up"; a GOOD slipper set. Something like the strobe works very well...

Thanks Brian. I should have mentioned that.

That's OK, I've got your back. :)

don't forget to strengthen up the output gear by replacing the roll pin with a hex screw or bit.

transmission
 

Ok thanks u guys,

So i see a lot of 3.3 transmissions on e-bay they will just bolt right in then ???

I have an order with Jamie from starluck for a BL setup.

Also what do you mean with the output gear ??? the big spurgear ???

srry for this but only had experience with nitro and gasoline trucks/cars.

so besides an e-maxx transmission can u also use either the emaxx trans with RC-Monster steel idler gear on a 3.3 transmission ??? or does the rc-monster set come with the trans ???

anyways thanks for the info.

Olaf:026: :026: :026:

By output shaft i mean in the Emaxx trans there is the top shaft that has two gears on it they are both held together with a roll pin. This often breaks so people replace the pin with a hex wrench piece or a drill bit. If you decide to go with the Emaxx trans you will need one steel idler if you decide to go with a single speed option which is best for Brushless anyway(2 idlers are needed for dual speed) you will also want to strengthen the output shaft with a stronger pin like and Allen wrench or drill bit. You can also go with the single speed when using the Emaxx trans. I am not very familiar with the nitro transmissions but if i am not mistaken the idlers from mike wont work(but i could be wrong) and the single speed conversion would not work for sure. The RC monster idlers come separate, and the single speed comes second but these only work with the Emaxx trans i believe. O and since many people here do not use a maxx trans i am not as familiar with them but i don't believe you have to beef up the output shaft in the nitro trans but not sure. hope i helped a little.

as to what gorillamaxx360 was saying for an emaxx transmission, look at this. it's the input shaft. the gear on the left (the endmost shaft pinion gear) is for 1st... and the one on the right is for 2nd gear, which will be used much more often for BL. the little pin holding the gear to the shaft is a flimsy press-fitted piece of metal. that's the part that could need the modification that gorilla is talking about.

They can use upgrading. I do that as a standard part of my "HSR MOTORSPORTS" input shaft package.

transmission
 

Ohhh sweet mates just love this info.

so how much would a decent setup set me back (also if you could list the items maybe :027: :027: :027: :027: )

that would be awesome.

Thanks anyways for the input

what a decent trans for the maxx 3.3 or a E-Maxx. Well here is a list for everything you would need for a bullet proof Emaxx tranny.

1. E-Maxx Gear Box Stock $10 (stock will defiantly hold and will cut down on weight) Here
2. GorillaMaxx Single Speed Conversion Kit $75 (this will lock your trans in second gear, and you want this because the Brushless motors these days are so powerful it just blows right past first gear and it becomes useless) Here
3. OPTIONAL -if the G-Maxx single speed is more than you want to spend than you can use the stock trans case and just buy the coupler that they make that is only $12 Here
4. E-Maxx input shaft $7 Here
5. Modify Input shaft and replace roll pins $0 a half an hour working with your hands removing the pin and making minimal grinding to a hex wrench or drill bit and then pressing it into the hole where the roll pin is (this upgrade greatly helps because the roll pins usually snaps under high power Brushless systems.
6. RC monster Steel Idler $15 (not much to say here just put it in and go) Here
7. Second gear for Emaxx trans $3 (plastic holds pretty good so metal in not necessary) Here
8. E-Maxx Idler shafts $4 Here
9. Bearings = (4) 5x11 (3) 6x12 $9 at your local hobby shop to get these in sealed bearings
10. Motor Mount Stock $8 Here Hopup $17 Here
11. Misc screws for Assembly

That is pretty much everything to bullet proof and lock and emaxx tranny into second gear for brushless. I am not sure about the other trans but they would probably be much more expensive because there are whay more gears, shafts, bearings, ect... for example look here and thats just how much a stock 2.5 trans costs and the 3.3 is bigger.
Hope I helped

dang, G - nice job. that must've taken a couple minutes, lol.

yeah it did. Thanks

Sticky ??? on tansmission upgrades ???

Admin plzzzzz

lol, if everything was stickied, there'd be no room for threads on the first page! That's what the search function is for. :dft012:

transmission
 

Hmmm u might be right however i couldn't find a good thread about this but i think u r propably right:018: :018: :005:

Well; here is the deal; the 3.3 transmission your planning on using has got a 2speed automatic transmission, so you need to stick to the mechanical brake, unless you are going to lock it in 1 gear. (this disables the 2speed, but gives you the ability to brake on the motor.)


The stock e-maxx transmission is pretty tough, but needs a few upgrades before it is.

Good thing about the 3.3 is that it uses a top-notch slipper (same one as a revo)

The stock e-maxx transmission uses 32p gears, and the slipper is rather weak. (don't know what your goal is? how many cells/choice of setup etc.)

the e-maxx transmission also requires a few other mods; steel idlers (they only fit the e-maxx transmission to answer your other question, they are 20T hardened MOD1 gears btw.) the inputshaft (the shaft that sticks out of the transmission to bolt the spur on) requires some mods as well; it uses weak hollow pins, which need to be replaces with massive pins. While some use hex keys they slam in, i use hardened steel nails. (you know, those black ones for concrete)

good thing about the maxx transmission is that it has got a motorplate bolted right onto it. With the 3.3 transmission you need to figure out another way.

Another thing you could do is get an FLM chassis (around 90 usd) and make it all fit like a glove..

transmission
 

Hey thanks Serum,

I have just received my 3.3 transmission I will have to do some work to make it fit. Also i ordered a motorplate but this doesnt fit on the 3.3 trans :035: :035: I will have to figure out how to mount this.

Other then that i think it will make a good base for my E-maxx BL car.

will keep u posted on the progress.

which 3.3 transmission was it? not the one from marktplaats, right? that was a revo transmission, arh, i'll guess you figured that out.

transmission
 

Nope not from "marktplaats" veel sukkels

Got it from e-bay.

it is the grey one with a good slipper but the mounting issue is something that takes time (luckily i have a 3 week holiday coming up :027: :027: :027: )

olafjak, I too will be using my T-maxx 3.3 for my brushless conversion. I've not yet found an aftermarket electric motor mount for it, so I don't know what I'm going to do about that.

Anyway, I've been reading about what I can do with my 3.3 transmission. I plan on taking out the 1st gear so it will be locked into 2nd gear and doing the forward only conversion. This will remove weight and un-needed rotating mass which apparently is a big deal. The motor will take care of reverse. The brakes on the 3.3 will take care of braking which will reduce engine heat and wear and tear. I think these options are a great way to go.

Let me know what you find out about mounting your motor to your 3.3 tranny! Also, what motor/esc you using?