The OFFICAL RC-MONSTER extended crt.5 thread.
 

Hi everybody sinice there are more than a few of us here with the extended crt.5, i thought it would be helpfull if we had just one thread for setups & tips or anything reguarding the kit instead of everone having there own thread. I would like to know what springs everyone is using ?. I only have the original gray springs that came with the jammin kit. I orderded bowties & a proline CP t4 body for mine. My power system will be

ESC MM
motor 7s 5070kv
gear 12/46 going to try 13/46
lipo maxamp's 2s2p 8000's for now
radio M8 with a novak switch module & xxl reciver
servo hitec 5955

I just run a orion 10.5, with no esc now...
A TrakPower 2s
Spektrum DX2.0
servo, Futaba S9550

Im using the stock set up, just with 40 wt oil in the rear, and 7K oil in the center

i am using...........

rc-monster chassis
proline 30 series bowties
jconcepts gt2 body(to long imo)
mm
9l
3s maxamps 5k
15/46
med. springs(blue), will try heavy springs(white)

how do you like the blue springs compared to the stock gray springs ?. the gray's feel a little soft in my opinion with the 8000 lipo im using.


What weight shock oil are you guys using ?. This is my current setup.

http://www.jamminproducts.com/CRTset...5JHreddeer.pdf

Stock chassis w/ crowd pleaser body
Proline Dirtworks truck tires
MM
Lehner Basic XL 4200
Neu Energy 2s 5000mah
16/46
White springs all around (I like them a better than the blues)
cnc knuckles, hubs, and chassis braces.

Ok, RCM ext chassis
Plett maximum (3100kv)
3s 4200 maxamps lipo (3s2p 2100 cells)
MM
13/46 gearing
Proline bowties on traxxas front rims
Proline crow pleazer for xxx-nt body

so far i think they are ok, have not jumped it much in ext. form though, so the white springs may be better for heavy bashing:neutral:

I think with the extra weight of the extended chassis & my 8000 lipo & the larger wheels & tires im going to get at least the blue springs.

Hi,

Well I'm using an OFNA extended chassis... Really love how this thing goes on 3s 5000/ 7L with the 2.8 annaconda's. 16/46 gearing

Differential Ratio: 3.25
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 46
Pinion Tooth Count: 16
Total Voltage: 11.1
Motor KV: 3511
Tire Diameter (inches): 3.75
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.0059
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.88 : 1
Total Ratio: 9.34375 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 11.78 inches (299.24mm)
Total Motor Speed: 38972.1 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 46.53 MPH (74.75km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 4.19mph/V (6.73kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 3511


I've done some work on her this week in re-doing the esc mount, battery tray and fixing up the MM - extra 2700uf cap and 5.5mm motor connectors.

Also fixed the front body mounts with some traxxas ones...

For a treat I also put some new shoes on her tonight to get a bit more offroad traction - jato rear victory's all round...

The wiring only looks like a mess ATM as I have the eagletree installed with the esc temp and brushless rpm sensor.

I'll get some logs up over the w/e if the weather stays ok...

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u.../CRT5/002a.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...k/CRT5/003.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...k/CRT5/004.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...k/CRT5/005.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...k/CRT5/006.jpg

PS the body is my first non-one color wonder... so nothing special

Looks familiar, Is that my old crt.5?

Well the front and rear are the same... All of the middle and shoes are new :)

I don't remember my kit having 4 concave washers, but the 4 aluminum spacers are to make the battery posts taller if you run a bigger battery. Of course you will also need longer screws. My batt posts come loose from time to time, I wonder if the concave washers are to serve as a lock washer for the posts?

I'm planning on making a large post of all setups I've tried and am currently trying. But as for shocks I've been running the stock 50F / 35R, but with the single hole pistons. This is over damped, but I run a smoothish clay track with big jumps. The big jumps require a lot of damping.

I've had the best luck with blue srpings front and grey rear. The car handles good and does not flip often. With blues all the way around or whites F and blue R the car flipped a bit too often.

I started with the front swaybar removed and have since removed the rear too. This again cuts down on the car flipping. It may also let me run blue rear springs, but I have not tested this.

One other thing. 2.2 truck tires are nice on rough loose ground with smaller jumps, but on bigger jumps they are difficult to control. I'm talking 25' jumps out of a tight bowl corner. With the smaller stock tires the car is very controllable in the air with the brake or throttle. With the truck tires the car is good for back flips, but difficult to control precisely.

WHOA, WHAT HAPPENED TO THE POST I WAS RESPONDING TO? There was a new post asking what the extra spacers were for in the RCM extended chassis kit.

I found out what there for monster mike told me :smile: as for the post after mike told me what they were for i felt like a idiot & erased it :lol:.

Also when you make your setup post please try to keep them in this thread . It will make it a lot eaiser for everyone if there is only one thread about it :smile:.

No problem...What are the concave washers for?

To hold the servo to the mounts DOOOOH :lol:.

There for the servo, he uses a counter sunk type screw (forget the name) And the counter sunk washers......

I have one of the early kits and it just came with flat brass colored washers for the servo mounts. No biggie.

Will the maxamps 2s2p 4200 fit under the stock strap that comes with the extended crt.5 kit from mike. My 2s2p 8000 is a little to heavy for this truck in my opinion plus it wont fit under the stock strap. .

I am looking at buying this kit instead of a couple of others and I have one question. Are parts that come with it like the front driveshaft/dogbone easily replacable if it breaks or is lost in a crash or is it something that only comes from RC-Monster? I don't want to have to buy a new kit everytime I smack the front end and break/lose a dogbone :)

Thanks!

Im sure mike will sell induviduel parts for repairs. As far as i know they are rc monster parts, maybe some one else knows for sure.

rchippie - I believe so I think it was actually designed for it with the mm esc behind it..

I think linc has this setup...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9442

Yep 4th or so post down... he's actually 3s2p... which is what I'd go for.

2s is fun but 3s....

the kit uses a standard rear driveshaft for the front driveshaft, and mike can always make you one as well,iirk

I just want to double check :lol:. 2s is more than enough for me. Besides i dont want to get another motor . I have a 7s 5070 kv a little to much for 3s :lol:.

Those are the batts I just got for my crt.5 makeover. They fit in the stock RCM batt holder. I run 1 set of the batt post spacers and velcro. The truck handles a lot better than when I had 4800 hard packs. I moved all the electronics to the chassis and the radio to the top of the steering servo.

Those are nice batts. Lots of punch and runtime for only 225gm. I use a Novak GTB esc and Novak Velocity 6.5 motor.

Thats good to hear because i just ordered a 2s2p 4200 from them . I had a 25% discount from them when my 2s2p 8000 puffed. so the total was $80.43 with 12g upgrade & priorty shipping.

Oh Ok. So on the stock car out of the factory, the rear shaft is longer than the front? I figured the front was a little shorter, I'm still such a noob :lol:

What weight shock oil is everyone using with the extended .5 ?. How does 45 FR & 40 RR sound ?.

Which pistons & springs?

I've found the stock crt.5 shocks to be a bit small in diameter and the fronts just don't have enough stroke for the extra weight of a brushless conversion. Unfortunately, I don't know the weight of a stock crt.5 with fuel, but my brushless is 4.5 lbs with stock sized tires a 4.75 with truck tires.

The reason I say the shocks are a bit small is that even overdamped (single hole pistons & heavy oil) I still blow through the shocks too easily on big jumps. If the shocks were larger diameter or the fronts had more stroke (less leverage) then they could resist big hits better without being so overdamped on the small stuff.

I've seen a few nitro racers that are using larger bore (diameter) shocks from other vehicles. I'll probably at least do this to the front of my crt.5.

That is light battery, you should have a really good handling .5 when you are done.

What motor are you going to use? Will you step down to the feigao 8s or are you going to try a different mfg motor? Any specific kv, or are you looking for a less powerful motor? Just curious!

James im using the 7s -5070kv on i got from you. Do you think it will be okay with the truck tires ?.

Did you ever get an answer to this? If you plan on using the smaller 2 hole pistons I'd go with 60 F & 40 R. And, I'd at least run Blue springs on the front.

I really do not see any reason that the 7s would not work. You will have to lower the gearing due to the taller tires to maintain the same speed. I would say to try it and keep checking your temps. The s can motors are pretty good motors, you could step up to a l can, or go to 3s but both will increase weight.

Yes i did. Mike said he uses the white springs with the oil that the manual says to use for the build with the single hole piston. I have the two hole pistons all ready installed . so i bumped up the weights a little. I put 60 in the FR & 35 in the RR. I dont have the white springs so i installed the blue springs.


James the motor runs cold with the kit tires & a 12/46 gear . So im going to try the same gear first. If the motor gets hot then i'll gear down, to a 11 or 10 tooth.

I tried the white springs, but at my track the car flipped over too easily. The chassis did not roll properly into the turns and instead would flip over if I caught a bump in a high speed corner. I've since removed the rear sway bar (never ran the front) and the car was even better. Now I might be able to run White F & Blue R and still get good stability in the corners. Without swaybars you can run stiffer springs for jumping and still get the chassis to lean for cornering.

I would think a 5000kv S can on 2S would be fine with truck tires and geared 12/46. I ran my 6400kv Novak on 2S with truck tires and the same gearing with very good results and only warm motor/esc temps. I also ran it with 13/46 gearing, but it did not reach full speed by the end of the straight and developed a bit more heat, so I went back to 12/46.

I think the gearing i have on it now is going to be okay. Because im using proline truck size street tires (road rage) & the motor runs cool, & i dont think the truck bowties are that much taller.

rchippie's CRT.5:

http://skellyo.com/hippie/crt.5/pics3%20005.jpg

http://skellyo.com/hippie/crt.5/pics3%20006.jpg

http://skellyo.com/hippie/crt.5/pics3%20007.jpg

http://skellyo.com/hippie/crt.5/pics3%20008.jpg

http://skellyo.com/hippie/crt.5/pics3%20009.jpg

http://skellyo.com/hippie/crt.5/pics3%20010.jpg

thank you sean

Very nice, hippie!

I just got mine out yesterday and the rear left turnbuckle shaft got stripped out of the ball link( at full throttle the car got out of control and flew like fan in the air).

I'm using 1930/5(4180rpm), a Mamba Max, 4s1p 2500mah Evo25, 13/46 gearing and slick panther truck tires with the standard crt.5 rims.

Definitely a crazy ride!

Looks great. That thing must be crazy on 4s :gasp::lol:. what body is that & how do you like the fit ?.