Finished My RC8 Conversion
 

I just wanted to share a few pics of the RC8. 15151y, Quark 125b, and misc parts rc-monster (servo holder & pinions) and rcproductdesigns (mount & integrated battery box/mud guard).

She seems to run great. The quark is really smooth, absolutely no cogging whatsoever. The brakes seem a little harsh though. I did a few runs up and down the street on 3s while I wait on my new 4s flightpower & new energy packs to get here. I bought two TrueRC packs but sent them back as they are too wide for the battery box by 2mm. The 3s 8000 probably had her doing about 30 mph.

I can't wait to try her out on the track next week which is what I built it for.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/P2090973.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/P2090971.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/P2090970.jpg

Great conversion!! That motor must be quite the challenge to control in a 1/8 buggy. :lol: Must have torque like nothing else...

Very nice, how about a pic from the battery side, so I can see the sidepod/battery box.

It definitely has some torque and I can't wait to see how she moves with the 4 & 5s. The 3s isnt strong enough for the motor. Hopefully, it can keep all the power to all fours and not wheelie all over the place like my Rusty. This my first buggy and 4wd drive car and I can't believe the handing difference.

Here is the battery box. It is a direct replacement for the left mud guard using the stock screw holes. The only downside is that you can't adjust the placement of the box if you are trying to tweak the balance of the car. However, I prefer the clean install of this one. They make them for most of the 1/8 buggies.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/P2100980.jpg

Its a shame the TrueRC pack didn't fit. If it did, it would make my future conversion of the RC8 much easier...

You could go with a different battery tray?

so why are you using 5mm plugs instead of deans?

they have the least resistence of any connector?

They have some thinner cells out now (45mm) in 4000, 6000, and 8000 mah. I think I am going to swap the ones I have out. See www.truerc.net

I could probably make one, but I wanted a cleaner install and I don't really have a lot of space or tools to fabricate my own. Most of the battery trays are about 48.5mm wide and the TrueRC packs are 50mm wide. I guess it is a known issue with their packs.

I found them easy to solder and pull apart. I am still trying to figure out which ones to use so I can have the same plugs on all my cars. I like the Traxxas plugs too.

TBH i couldnt figure out how to solder the 5mm plugs.....

Oh, I was referring to jnev's post about not being able to use True RC packs, only because they didn't fit the particular tray you are using. There are other trays out that will fit True RC packs, and that was what I was getting at.

I have perfected that technique. You need to stand the plug on end (lump of wood with a shallow hole drilled into it is handy), and hold the tip of your iron in the plug (some have a handy hole drilled at 90*). Then feed in the solder wire, and it will melt and fill up the 'cup' of the plug. Then withdraw the solder wire, and dip your battery/motor wire into the cup of molten solder. Once you are happy with its position, withdraw the iron and allow the solder to soldify, and then you're done- just make sure to pre-tin the power/battery wire, and slide on the heatshrink tube before you start. :intello:

I got this from one of the guys that has been racing his converted RC8 and though I'd share.... I didn't know RCPD made a battery tray for the RC8!!

im gonna save you some hassle
while its sittn there lookin preety.. go over everything.. front and rear diffs... all the nuts with a lil dab of ca glue.. mainly the ones under the wing unter the top plate.. and the ones that hold the shock tower on.. this makes changing anything a breeze and you dont have to worry about the locknuts falling out.. ..

secondly go into the center diff.. put an additional shim behind the four lil gears. and if your using a kyosho spur take the two shims that suppsoed to be under there and put the spare one. (since you can only use one on that side ) under the other sun gear.. refill with 7000 weight diff fluid..

if you dont do this to the center gear your gonna eat innards like crazy.. the stock center diff setup is shimmed loosely