crt.5 rear drive shaft problem
 

hey ,


ive broken 3 drive shafts so far on the crt.5 , is their any stronger drive shafts available?? , i tried the new cvd drive shaft for the crt.5 but its too short, it reaches the tip of the cup which cause the shaft on the end to strip , right now i unlocked my centre diff and i had a question , will the cup from 1/8 truggies fit inside the centre diff of the crt.5??

and does anyone know where i can get 6mm to 5mm adapter for the drive cup??

I suggest contacting Mike and see if he can make you a set. I am not sure if the diff cups are interchangeable...I tend to think not, but, I could be wrong

I've used standard output shafts or you could use mikes revo output shafts...

how are they breaking? shearing or bending? if bending it might be your rear brace that this the problem causing the chassis to flex and crushing the shaft...

the shafts break near the end of the ball ,then they become 2 pieces , i think it has been breaking because i put some crawler tires on (only 2.2 tires i have) and coz of the locked center diff of the crt5 , i just opened it and removed all the glue , gonna go to the hobby shop tomorrow and buy the rear cvd and will see wat happens

The center diff cups between a CRT .5 and a 1/8th scale Buggy/Truggy are not interchangeable as they are a different size. Unlocking the center diff will help, but those big tires sure don't help with your situation. The CRT .5 is a tough little thing but it has its limits.

i just got a new rear drivshaft but im still having issues, when i use the spacers move the drivshaft a bit more in the cup , the driveshaft always falls of i the end , and if i didnt use the spacer the driveshaft reaches the cup but just spins inside , im beginning to think that the cup the worn out , gonna replace it today , and wat is a gd diff oil for the center diff if im using rcm chassis and 2.2 tires??

In my crt.5, I run 7 front 10 center, 3 rear.... w/2.2 tires

My solution to strenghen main shafts, and to set 1/8 car torsen diff in the middle looks like this.

http://www.gfoto.com/UserPicPopup.as...B7A443#PicShow

http://www.gfoto.com/UserPicPopup.as...B7A443#PicShow

http://www.gfoto.com/UserPicPopup.as...B7A443#PicShow

1st Tamiya sleeves burned grease off, then drilling to allow cup screw take grip.( not genuine shaft, only for measuring)
Shim plate to sheild bearing side , when STRONG threadlock takes hold on this bushing.

This system allows use of 1/8 T-bones too. No matter where you install big cup as long as axle is 5mm and hole 8mm in cup.

hhmm , where did u get those bronze spacers from ???

aahh finally solved my rear driveshaft issues , i fitted the revo driveshaft on it , and its the first time i go through a whole battery without stopping and fixing something, if anyone want to know how to do it , tell me and ill make a how to thread

What are you running in the .5 to break driveshafts?
I've run 1400W pushing M2Ks on the little thing and never had any driveshaft issues. The only one I ever bent was due to the rear brace flexing on a big bad landing. 7075 braces fixed that.

im was running medusa 2300 70mm with mmm and 4s lipo, with crawler tires

Did you remove the rear brace i don't see it in the photos

in the pic it wasn't on because i didn't know where to put it , but now its on with a different location so it doesn't touch the driveshaft

They are TLT parts, ment to use in shok-links.
(edit: damper linkage, was the name)
Same size is in clodbuster, gearbushing 5*8*(?about3?)
Many use only axles and these stay unneeded.

pic:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/prod...=gallery_6.jpg