Driveshafts?
 

So basically 6s + my driving style = broken driveshafts :party:
So far i have broken 4 driveshafts, are there any recommended driveshafts out there other than stock?
What about the opti-drive ones traxxas sells?
Thanks

If your running an ERevo with the MMM your problem is surely with just the slipper. On 6S, that stock slipper has to be very tight or else it will slip too much and it will cook in half a second. That tight slipper doesn't slip enough to protect your drive train. Find a piece of aluminum, 2 to 3 mm thick. Make yourself an aluminum slipper ''disk'' pad to replace those three little Traxxas slipper pads. It doesn't even have to look good, it will work even if it's ugly. Just make sure the 6 little holes are in the right place. I have been bash and race testing this aluminum slipper disk on 4, 5 and 6S. I even tested it by setting it loose to try to make it fail. It did not fail, it just keeps on going. Here's a drawing of the disk in question. I tried to be as accurate as I could with the measurements. It really works and it lets you set your slipper the right way, loose enough so that it protects your whole drive train with no worries of the slipper cooking.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...dimension1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ipper_pad1.jpg

Here's a pic of the slipper disk after a lot of testing to see if it holds up. It does. The left disk in new, the middle disk is the test one and the right disk is just the stock steel slipper ring. The thickness of the aluminum slipper disk is still the same as new after almost 30 runs of 4, 5, and 6S

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ipper_pad2.jpg

A boring movie of the kind of testing I did. Repeated full throttle starts.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...er_test3-1.jpg

I have spent quite a bit on my E-revo drietrain, RCM hybrids coupled with KD cebter dogbones and MIP 1665 cvd's front and rear. all of this has led to a new weak spot, the rive pins in my 23mm hex's as well as the hex's themselves.

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSC_0081.jpg

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSC_0079.jpg

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSC_0080.jpg

I have broken 5 or 6 of these since upgrading the rest of my drivetrain, only when i started to use ground down allen wrenches for my hexes did it stop, and even then i haven't had too many packs on them. Not too mention the
23mm hexes, they aren't that cheap to replace.

As for the rest of my setup, i would recommend all of the parts to anyone looking to stop replacing driveshafts and diffs!

That is cool damage, not fun for you but it's cool the way that pin just sheered off from both sides and the tips stayed right there wedged in the hexes.

yeah, this has happened several times and its getting annoying. plus all my Hexes are getting destroyed!!!

thanks guys, ive had my slipper tightened all the way
i heard doing that was fine, guess not

Answer...
 

In fact this question has come up quite a few times in many posts here on RCM. Several weak points are designed into every R/C vehicle by the manufacturers for two reasons. One is to protect the components that are more valuable in your setup, such as the motor, ESC, and transmission. The other is so that you keep spending money replacing stuff, which in turn keeps them in business. You have to decide where you want the weak points to be in your setup. Something has to give somewhere.

IMHO The best place is in the slipper, but that does not mean that you have to install a cheapo slipper that will fail or melt on you every couple of runs. Plus it all depends on your powerplant, budget and how much money you want to throw at your vehicle. For my kids I just have them use stock stuff, because it is easy to replace, and cheap on the wallet for the most part. This is more for the learning experience on their part in taking things apart and putting them back together.

On the other hand if it is your wish to build a bulletproof rig, then you need to get some real good parts in your setup (entire drivetrain)and get rid of the plastic. There are plenty of after market hopups that are practically indestructable, but that is the price you pay if you want consistant bashing without having to replace stuff after every run. Especially when you are running high voltage setups 5S & 6S and up. Just think about it. That kind of power can break bones and really hurt you pretty easily, so how tough is your rig???

^^ i find drive pins to be a pretty low cost replacement part, the hexes on the other hand arent that cheap, so i wouldnt mind a stronger alternative to AL. anyone up for making me some titanium hexes along with some titanium drive pins?? lol

what im most likely going to do is try to make my own little plate thing that mistercrash made. if it fails, i will buy one from him, along with a new set of 4 driveshafts for 24$

go on ebay get the http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-5451R-T-...3A2%7C294%3A50
you wil be happy

Great deal.
 

Thats a really good deal at that price. I know I like mine and I paid nearly full price for them from Tower with one of my coupons.