Is This Bind
 

Hey Guys,

I am trying to rule out reasons my 9920 got so hot. I made a short video to see if my truck is binding or not. If you have time, please take a look and tell me what you think.

Thanks!

http://www.rustyonline.net/bindMovie.wmv

Did you disconect the motor from the driveline? You need to do that to test for cogging. You could just pull the pinion off. If you have then I would say you have some cogging or something dragging your tranny. I just did a test similar to yours with mine and it free wheels very fast with the pinion removed but goes about the same as your with the pinion still attached.

I removed the controller Motor and Batteries.

It got hot with stock diffs. I upgraded with FLM cups etc. I did the single speed gmaxx conversion, but it seems smooth.

I am going to put some weight back on the truck and test it again.

Thanks!

With the motor disconntected from the driveline the truck should roll freely just like a kids tonka truck. :cool:

it looks like theres no motor in it in the vid. my guess is i dont think the problem is binding cause the truck rolls evenly my thinking on binding is if your truck rolls smooth a few inches then binds and almost stops then rolls freely again. spin one wheel and see how long it spins if all the wheels spin nicely then the problem is in eather your drive shafts coming off the tranny the tranny it self or the ring gear and pinion gear. hope that helps :)

Interesting vid. Nice idea, made me smile!

I think you have some binding there. If I do the same with mine, they roll better!
I always keep an eye on my drive line. Your best bet is to test every area individually with your fingers. Sometimes the diffs need a bit of break-in (you could do this with a drill)
In your case it might even be only one single bearing somewhere. Knuckle-bearings like to die from time to time.

Good Luck!

Based on your video, I'd have to say you've got some binding somewhere. That truck should have rolled down the first incline at least as fast as it rolled down when you held the board up high later in the video.
Definitely check the bearings in the truck.
I'm not too familiar with the Savage, but I do know that some vehicles don't like the wheel nuts tightened down too far. For instance, if I tighten down the wheel nuts on my T4 too far it will actually compress the parts on the axle into the bearings and stop the wheels from spinning freely. What I'll usually do is tighten snugly, then back off about 1/4 turn, making sure that the nylock part of the nut is still firmly engaged. Again, I'm not sure if this is applicable to the Savage, but it's another thing worth checking.

I can set my truck on the hood of a car and they will roll off with the motor intact. Just for reference.

My G2R rolls better than that with no motors, so i think you have some drag issues. I would disassemble everything and double check everything

Wow, thanks everyone!

I made the video because I could not think of a better way to describe it.

I am definitely going to try the drill idea on the new diffs. They are pretty smooth, but I am sure it wouldn't hurt.

The $64 question...

Is the amount of bind I have enough to cook my 9920?

Thanks again guys - I learn so much from all of you! I really appreciate it!

Well, binding in the drive-line is the same for your BL combo as too tall a gearing.
If it's enough to fry an ESC is another question. Could well be, though.

I once got a pebble into the chain-drive of my TF, pushed the throttle only for a second, and the ESC thermaled. Afterwards BK told me I had a 130 amp peak on it. (seemed strange to me, was only running a 9L on 14 cells)

Sorry for missing this thread;

What gearing do you use? and what diffs? and what motor?

No problem.

18/66
FLM Cups and gears with stock enclosure.
8xl
12 cells