The last straw!!!!
 

I thought I would give nitro one more chance before I totally yank everything out of my Revo to start my E-Revo project. After my Revo being down for 2 months prior I got it all back together and ready for last weekend to do a little bashing with a friend of mine and not only did I have problems all weekend but so did he. I was so pissed that I almost poored the rest of the nitro bottle on it and set it on fire. However once I cooled down I immediately started yanking out all of the nitro stuff of the Revo so that I can start my E-Revo project. Once I get everything off of it and go through the front and rear halves to make sure nothing needs to be replaced then I am going to order the parts I need for the swap. Here is what I decided to go with:

Novak Super Duty XR ESC with the fan upgrade
2 - Titan 550 12T's when they get released with heatsinks for both motors
E-Maxx Transmission with the gorillamaxx single speed conversion
Traxxas Custom Motor Plate #3990X
RPM Bearing Carriers

I am already running dual Hitec 645MG's for steering servos with the slayden steering travel mod. To start out I will run 2 GP3300 6 cell packs that I have until I get all of the kinks worked out and then I will be upgrading to some good 7 cell packs. From what I can see by some of the other buildups on this site you can utilize the stock 2.5 chassis to do a E-revo cheaper than the gorillamaxx option. What else am I missing to finish up my layout?

Thanks,
Lee

Why are you going brushed? From what I've seen, the 12t Titans are meant for 6-7 cells, not 14. The concensus on the TRaxxas forums seems ot be they will burn up. Either way they are not proven. In the end you'll end up spending alot oto get little back. Low 30s possible only on 14 cells I would guess. If you are wanting something simple, at least get a Novak HV line. More power more TQ, more speed and more runtime.

Plus, with two motors, you have trouble finding a place for the esc, esp if you are keeping dual servos. The Rx will already be hard. Its a pretty spartan chassis, and you'll end up having to cram everthing in making it not pretty and a PITA to work on.

Otherwise:

You will need a better slipper soon, steel idlers, and I prefer a gear cover. Batt wires are back there bouncing around and I don't want them to get sucking in and chewed up. I wouldn't go with the gmaxx single spped. You lose half the tranny case, but then also half of your mount. Its just as easy to remove all the 1st gears and get to keep the full mounts. Put the money toward a better motor.

How are you planning to mount the batts? My biggest advice is to really plan everything out and make sure you have all your parts before you start. There are alot of little bits and ends you will need as well. (bolts, straps, mount material, etc etc,)

I am going brushed because I don't really want to spend the 279 for the HV Maxx when I know I can do most of the swap for that. Later whenever brushless starts to come down then I might consider it but in the meantime I will be going brushed. Plus I am not looking for a ton of power out of my Revo just something fun to bash with. I really want to try the 12T Titans because no one really knows for sure whether or not they will burn up or be ok. I have a couple of ideas on how I am going to mount everything once I get it. I will be fabbing up brackets similar to dafni's for the battery's and then building a mount setup for the ESC and the RX. I forgot to add the steel idlers and the gear cover to the list but it was in the initial plan. What slipper do you recommend? Do you have a link to doing the transmission mod that you were referring to? I was planning on doing something to fix the wire situation but until I get everything layed out I am not sure how I am going to go about that yet. I am thinking about picking up a set of the gorilla straps to use to hold the batteries in place unless there is a cheaper alternative. Let me know your thoughts.

I agree on the hv maxx at least. If that is a problem you could buy a 9920 and 9xl with alot more power. It would depend on cell count to. The brushed motors will wear out. If you take care of the brushless. The only thing to wear out is truck and bearings. The 9xl is just an example.

I know the price on the electronics is a hard first hit. I bought a almost new 2.5r w/ new motor for $280. Thats the price of a Q125 alone.:007:
The roller was ~$100 stripped down.

However, being cheap sometimes doesn't pay off. I learned this through my recent build trying to get a used 9920. I didn't pay much ofr it, but it didn't work, and I had to go out and spend more just to get back to where I was.

The Superduty is ~$140. The titans are prob ~$30ea. That already $200+ and God knows if it will even work, and will surely work poorer than a brushless. What if they do burn up? Then you will have to go and spend more in the end to get what you originally wanted. The brushless needs nearly 0 maintenance, and won't wear out. If you get a decent setup to begin with you will end up spending far less in the end.

Personally, I'm not a big fan of the 9920s. To many things to easily break off and a bit unsophisticated in operation/programming. I think their time has past in the quickly evolving brushless market, and they don't run the 4 pole Neu motors, but they are a economical alternative to the Q125s. Having to send to Germany and wait for 6mos for repair also sux. At least the Novak will be cheap and easy to repair, and will always have good resale value on ebay. If you do go out with nitros alot, its not going to be fun to show off an electric conversion that is slow, heavy and cluttered and watching them fly past you (assuming they get their engines started... :) )

If you do keep the brushed, you may have to keep both gears, it just doesn't have the same amt of low end power as brushless. I know on my emaxx the brushed motors needed 1st for alot of things else runtime really dropped and the motors ran hotter. Then you've got to figure out a shifter servo..

If you did want to do just second gear, just remove the top input gear's roll pin and take the gear off. Don't put in the idler, but leave the pin for that. You have to leave in the drive gear or figure out a spacer. I just left mine in. Its on bearings and will spin freely, so doesn't add much rotational mass. Lastly lock the 2nd gear drive gear to the dog gear via bolts or epoxy (obvious when you open the tranny how this works.) In the end my maxx tranny w/ steel idler was same weight as stock revo tranny (inc mount plate.)

I have found the super duty for $115 and the 12T titans priced at $19 each so together that would only run me $153 plus the cost of the emaxx trans, motor plate and slipper which I am getting a hookup on anyways from the same place. I think that I can fab something to deal with the shift servo if need be. I am going to finish getting my Revo torn down this weekend and checked out so that I can place the order for most of my parts in the next 2 weeks. That way once I have the motors, trans and plate mounted up I can start looking at how to lay everything out on the chassis and what exactly that I need to fab up to hold everything in place. What gearing do you think would work good with this setup so that I can order it at the same time?

you will burn out those 12t titans on 14.4 volts, and probably the speed control too.......

FYI,

Titans are not 12T but rather 23T.

we are talking about the new ruslter/stampede 12t titan motors........

Sorry! I havn't even looked at those two new releases. I thought you were referring to the E-Maxx Titan 550's.

Nevermind............

If wired correctly, the brushed motors will work fine. If I remember correctly, the Titans on a Maxx are wired in paralllel, if you wire the motors in series, they will only get half the voltage...But...I would still never recommend a brushed setup...

Accually FYI.
The titans are rated as 23t.
The ones with the 4 holes in the can by the fans are accually 21 turns. I took one down and counted the wraps aroudn them. I heard this and wanted to varify.Squee is right. If wired in series they survive much better.

I just picked up two stock titans and a motor plate cheap. Now I am hoping to get my trans tomorrow so that the only thing that I am really down is my slipper clutch, spur gear, pinion gears, & the EVX or Novak SuperDuty. I am just trying to figure out what gearing should I start out with on my project. Any help you can give me would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Lee

Actually, they can run off 14 (2x7 cells) i think is what he means. And a single speed would give him more room to mount stuff. Having ALL four mounted screws reallt isn't needed. If i can run my single speed on BL he should be fine IMO.

But would still go BL as it will cost almost the same to get the set up he is looking at. Really, an xl motor and esc from mike would only be 300.00 for a cheaper set up.

Ok just for a update, I have everything either here or on the way for my buildup. I got a really good deal on all of the stock E-MAXX stuff so for now that is where I am going to start. I am going to leave it 2-speed for now and fab up brackets for everything around it. Once I have everything here then I will start taking pics and posting them on here to show the progress. I can't wait to get my E-Revo done so that I can start bashing again. ;)