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BrianG · 12.27.2009, 02:27 PM

Before you get too far, you should calibrate the current and voltage measurements so that you start out with a good baseline. There are two areas; zero and actual values. Zeroing just makes sure 0v and 0A is really 0v and 0A. Calibrating the non-zero values is a little more complex. First, you have to come up with a dummy load that you hook to your packs which will draw around 10A. Hook the load to the pack along with the ET. Measure the voltage and current with a multimeter. Then, see what ET is saying the values are. If different, there is a screen where you can enter the real vs displayed values.

	(#7)
BrianG RC-Monster Admin Offline Posts: 14,609 Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Des Moines, IA	12.27.2009, 02:27 PM Before you get too far, you should calibrate the current and voltage measurements so that you start out with a good baseline. There are two areas; zero and actual values. Zeroing just makes sure 0v and 0A is really 0v and 0A. Calibrating the non-zero values is a little more complex. First, you have to come up with a dummy load that you hook to your packs which will draw around 10A. Hook the load to the pack along with the ET. Measure the voltage and current with a multimeter. Then, see what ET is saying the values are. If different, there is a screen where you can enter the real vs displayed values.