Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Before you get too far, you should calibrate the current and voltage measurements so that you start out with a good baseline. There are two areas; zero and actual values. Zeroing just makes sure 0v and 0A is really 0v and 0A. Calibrating the non-zero values is a little more complex. First, you have to come up with a dummy load that you hook to your packs which will draw around 10A. Hook the load to the pack along with the ET. Measure the voltage and current with a multimeter. Then, see what ET is saying the values are. If different, there is a screen where you can enter the real vs displayed values.
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Hi Brian,
I did calibrate the displayed voltage.
To calibrate the Amp load display is gonna take a little more work.
I have an outrunner motor spinning an 11 inch prop. This is rigged up to be a fan. The thing really puts out huge amounts of air too. LOL
Powering the "fan" is a Mamba Max ESC hooked up to a servo tester. The servo tester controls the "variable speed" of the fan.
I hook my multimeter in line, along with the Eagletree, to get the 10 amp load. Then calibrate Amps with that.
Hmmm...........gonna have to look at my wiring situation.
Do you think the factory amp calibration will be that far off?