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Lehner front plate popped off
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pb4ugo
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Lehner front plate popped off - 05.20.2007, 03:16 PM

I was running my CRT powered by a 1950/7 and 4s through a Mamba Max today. Had a pretty solid crash followed by grinding.

Ran over to it to see the motor seperated from the mount. First thought was backed out motor screws, but after looking at it closer, I saw the front plate was still attached to the mount and the rest of the can pulled away from it!

Anybody else have this happen to them?

Looks like I may be able to get it screwed back together, but I don't have time to try right now.

I'm starting to think the expensive electronics aren't worth it.
   
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Serum
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05.20.2007, 03:21 PM

Everything has its braking point; the walls of the lehner motors are rather thin; it sucks that it happened though, most likely the case has got a small tear in it.

a Neu is build more durable IMO. (except for its open architecture.)
   
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BrianG
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05.20.2007, 03:38 PM

Couldn't Mike heatsink clamp be used with the LMT motor? I know that the rear clamp may have to be modded, but it would help with it happening again...
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pb4ugo
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05.20.2007, 03:44 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serum
Everything has its braking point; the walls of the lehner motors are rather thin; it sucks that it happened though, most likely the case has got a small tear in it.

a Neu is build more durable IMO. (except for its open architecture.)
Yes everything does have it's breaking point, I don't think I should have reached it here. In replaying in my mind what happened, It was a loud crash (from the chassis bottoming out on a rock, and the motor popping apart and grinding on the mount), but not a bad one. The CRT is 100% intact.

I bought the Lehner just barely before Mike started selling the Neus.
   
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pb4ugo
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05.20.2007, 03:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Couldn't Mike heatsink clamp be used with the LMT motor? I know that the rear clamp may have to be modded, but it would help with it happening again...
I don't see how it would help. I don't think you could mod the rear clamp enough to clear the plugs/solder bridges and the bearing/motor shaft.

I think I just need to go ahead and pay to have my own mount done. Lack of support under the length of the can, I'm fairly sure, is what caused this.
   
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BrianG
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05.20.2007, 04:14 PM

Well, if you could solve the rear problem, you can use the clamp. Maybe some type of epoxy over the solder bridges to follow the "terrain" of the back of the motor, and then use a bar over that? Anyway, it was just an idea.

Yeah, supporting the rear of the motor would go a long way to help reduce the stress on the front. Maybe something like Mike did on the revo mount with a curved metal brace in the back...
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captain harlock
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05.20.2007, 04:40 PM

They should've built the 1950s with a 4mm mounting holes just like the 22 series. Lehner must hear this call!!!


The name is Alawi. You can call me Al.
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BrianG
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05.20.2007, 04:42 PM

I don't think that would have helped in his case. It sounds like the front plate was still attached, but the can came loose from the plate...
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pb4ugo
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05.20.2007, 04:42 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by captain harlock
They should've built the 1950s with a 4mm mounting holes just like the 22 series. Lehner must hear this call!!!
The mounting holes in the front plate stayed put, the front plate popped from the can.
   
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Sylvester
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05.20.2007, 04:45 PM

With my old 1950 i used mikes XL clamp and used button head screws with a thick washer and it held the lehner in place where the little clamp bracket goes.. just an idea.


The problem with nitro's these days are that they arent brushless... LOL

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pb4ugo
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05.20.2007, 04:46 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Well, if you could solve the rear problem, you can use the clamp. Maybe some type of epoxy over the solder bridges to follow the "terrain" of the back of the motor, and then use a bar over that? Anyway, it was just an idea.

Yeah, supporting the rear of the motor would go a long way to help reduce the stress on the front. Maybe something like Mike did on the revo mount with a curved metal brace in the back...
I do appreciate the input.

I designed a mount simialar to Mike's but had the motor laying flat on the chassis (since I had no intention of running a larger diameter Neu) but after getting quotes for a single piece and Mike coming out with his, I decided to go with Mike's. By the time I find an answer to making the clamp work, I might as well have the mount machined.
   
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pb4ugo
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05.20.2007, 04:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylvester
With my old 1950 i used mikes XL clamp and used button head screws with a thick washer and it held the lehner in place where the little clamp bracket goes.. just an idea.
Not following you. Pictures??
   
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Sylvester
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05.20.2007, 05:01 PM

On the rear part of the clamp, where there are the 2 screw inserts, use a washer on each screw so there is contact on the rear part of the can and it will hold.


The problem with nitro's these days are that they arent brushless... LOL

Losi 8ight e
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Serum
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05.20.2007, 05:30 PM

you could also use a layer of lexan to cover the aluminum and put some heatshrink around it to hold it in place. I don't think it's impossible to clamp the motor with the rc-monster clamp.
   
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