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Capacitor on MM -
03.13.2008, 02:50 PM
I've buy an electrolitic capacitor today at local electronic supply.
the only available was a 3300uF, 50 volts.
Can i put it on the input lead, or should absolutly have a 2700uF, 25 volts?
thank you!
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RC-Monster Admin
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03.13.2008, 03:17 PM
Yes, you can put it on the input battery lead, just solder it as close to the ESC as possible.
Larger values of capacitance is fine, it will just be physically larger and create a larger hook-up spark. An increased voltage rating is fine too.
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Guest
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03.13.2008, 05:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Yes, you can put it on the input battery lead, just solder it as close to the ESC as possible.
Larger values of capacitance is fine, it will just be physically larger and create a larger hook-up spark. An increased voltage rating is fine too.
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If you look closely on the MM board, where the input lead is solder, they've somes littles holes, just beside the + and the - lead.
And surprise, this holes have exactly the same diameter of the capacitor wire.
So i'll just have to slid each capacitor wire in this hole and put a little dab of solder!!!!!
More, this hole is very close to the input lead, so maybe i'll just heat the solder on the input lead and this will melt with the capacitor wire.
But for sure, this 50V, 3300uF is huge
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03.13.2008, 05:40 PM
Supposedly the solder that castle uses takes 500+ deg f to melt. I have not managed to melt it successfully yet, so I just use the wire close to the board.
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Guest
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03.13.2008, 06:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp
Supposedly the solder that castle uses takes 500+ deg f to melt. I have not managed to melt it successfully yet, so I just use the wire close to the board.
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I've replace the 3 wires on motor side with bigger one on my previous MM, and melt it very easily with my 50000W iron 
No seriously, i've a cheap iron, don't know how much power output, but melt it without any trouble
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03.13.2008, 06:50 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by david lamontagn
I've replace the 3 wires on motor side with bigger one on my previous MM, and melt it very easily with my 50000W iron 
No seriously, i've a cheap iron, don't know how much power output, but melt it without any trouble 
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Interesting, when bernie did the pics for the pizza, he said that the solder had to be heated past 500deg. So that they could sell it in a certain market overseas, or something like that. My iron would not melt it, but the tip needed changing.
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Z-Pinch racer
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03.13.2008, 06:53 PM
Most irons, I believe, can heat up to 600+ F at least. Correct me if i'm wrong?
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
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Guest
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03.13.2008, 03:20 PM
It's been a few years since I have been in a physics class (ok, only like 4, but that is long enough) but I think that should be fine. I am 99% sure the voltage issue wouldn't matter (as long as your cap is rated higher then your source) aka even if the cap is capable of holding 50v, it should only be able to charge as high as the power supply connected to it. As for the uf, I think 3300 is a little overkill (bigger the number, the more capacity it can store), but it should still work again, I don't think there is any drawback to a larger number here (other then more weight).
(disclaimer) As my engineering background is chemical, not electrical, I can honestly say I didn't study that section of physics to heavily so my statement, if it agrees with the other would be good for a consensus, not as fact on its own.
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03.13.2008, 03:31 PM
I have a feeling that it will be fine, as long as you drive it David.
Being that you are canadian, and the capcitor is also canadian, you will be fine. If someone who is not canadian (me for instance) would drive the vehicle, there may be a compatibility issue. I only say this as I purchased a few products that were made in mexico (and I am not mexican) and they did not work. I work fine with chinese and taiwanese products, but am not either nationality, so my theory may not hold true?!
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2 KiloWatt RACER
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Location: Houston
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03.13.2008, 03:42 PM
Well LinC, it may lay in the fact that you have a slight tint of yellow in your underskin. Therefore your theory holds true.
I trick asian products to work for me, with my last name. Eventhough I don't look nothing like one. I keep getting confused for a mexican, and mexican made products work great for me as well.
6 KiloWatt A123 Racer
GTP-Pletty Big Maxximum+RX8. GTP-C50-6L Hacker+RX8. CRT.5-Pro4+ZTW esc.
24s2p EVG SX 49.6mph Ebike.
18s4p Raptor 60mph Ebike. 11.5KW
Last edited by snellemin; 03.13.2008 at 03:45 PM.
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RC-Monster Admin
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03.13.2008, 08:22 PM
Yeah, they do, but the wires and PCB traces tend to wick the heat away so the iron tip temp drops quite rapidly.
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Old Skool
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03.13.2008, 08:31 PM
 I learnt that the hard way- why do deans have to be made from plastic, why not some heat resistant material like ceramic or something?....
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Location: Colorado
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03.13.2008, 11:45 PM
I preheat the whole unit (without the cheap switch wires, and wires removed) to 300*f first. Then soldering anything on the boards is easy... The deans and silicone wire holds up just fine.
If I could only draw what I see in my head, then afford to build it, and finaly get to play with it...
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