Noob-e-revo

[TomTomTuning]

Just picked up a pre owned E-Revo today..
Wow its fun but i REALLY REALLY need better batteries.
It came with a 3600mAh 6cell packs and after about 4-5min's... I'ts done..


I have a few questions...


I'm looking for higher mAh batteries, for longer run time.
-1- 2S2P would give me 4s, right? (2s 2packs= 4s)
-2- Can the non Brushless ESC take 14.8? (currently at 14.4 with the NiMH.
-3- If it's safe and i run 2s2p, i would just need a voltage cut off so i dont damage the Lipo, right?

I might go brushless eventually...
-4- But i want a battery i can run now and kick @$$ with the brushless setup?
I really want more runtime now, so the higher mAh really interest me.

-5- Do the Lipo's get as hot as my NiMH do, in the E-Revo?


Also the long travel rockers are currently installed and rear-blue / front- green springs... It turns like crap.
-5- What would be a better setup for better turning?

Thanks!

PS: Here is a picture of the E-Revo next to my Brushless TC4.. Crazy to think they are both considered 1/10 scale..


Wait until i get my rc18 (1/18th scale)... i'll put all three together.

[BrianG]

-1- No, 2s2p is just two 2s packs in parallel. You still get 2s. You either need a single 4s pack or dual 2s packs in series.

-2- Yes. 12 NiMH cells is 14.4v nominal, but as high as 16.8v fresh off the charger. 4s lipo is 14.8v nominal and 16.8v fresh off the charger.

-3- Yes, you should run a cutoff, or at the very least, a low voltage alarm. Just make sure you can hear it.

-4- 4s 5Ah or dual 2s 5Ah should get you quite a bit of runtime. You don't want to get too crazy with more mAh because it weighs more and takes more power to drag that extra weight around. Not to mention that extra weight makes it easier to break things when you crash. But 4s 5Ah should be roughly the same weight, or a little less than your 3600mAh NiMHs, which will translate to better runtime right off the bat.

-5- Does the truck "push" on turns, or does the steering simply not have enough range?

[TomTomTuning]

Originally Posted by BrianG

-1- No, 2s2p is just two 2s packs in parallel. You still get 2s. You either need a single 4s pack or dual 2s packs in series.

I'm just trying to get my terminology correct.

I'm still a little confused on what 2s2p means..
It has nothing to do with how many packs there is right?

It stands for... 2series2parallel, right?

Originally Posted by BrianG

-2- Yes. 12 NiMH cells is 14.4v nominal, but as high as 16.8v fresh off the charger. 4s lipo is 14.8v nominal and 16.8v fresh off the charger.

-3- So can the TRX EVX-2 handle the 14.8/16.8v? that a 4s lipo produces?
I'm guessing by the 16.8v sticker on the ESC, it can. (lol)

Originally Posted by BrianG

-3- Yes, you should run a cutoff, or at the very least, a low voltage alarm. Just make sure you can hear it.

The cutoff sound much better.. haha

Originally Posted by BrianG

-4- 4s 5Ah or dual 2s 5Ah should get you quite a bit of runtime. You don't want to get too crazy with more mAh because it weighs more and takes more power to drag that extra weight around. Not to mention that extra weight makes it easier to break things when you crash. But 4s 5Ah should be roughly the same weight, or a little less than your 3600mAh NiMHs, which will translate to better runtime right off the bat.

I cant change between Parallel or Series on the TRX EVX-2, so it would have to be 2x packs 2s 5000mAh. Which would give me 4s 5000mAh. Right?

2x 4s 5000mAh would give me 8s 5000mAH (29.2v)

Originally Posted by BrianG

-5- Does the truck "push" on turns, or does the steering simply not have enough range?

It has massive under steer... It turns REAL wide...

[TomTomTuning]

- Found out the previous owner had the green (short through) shocks up front, i put the silver ones on, there the correct ones for the front. I also installed the maximum steering block. The handing is much better now.

- I might try putting the short through rockers/springs back on... IDK yet.
Short and long through rockers just adjust the ride height/droop?

- Decided to go with 2s 5000mAh packs. Just looking to find a decent deal on a pair.
These will work great with the current motor/ESC and brushless (if i ever go that route)

- Broke the left upper A-Arm (hit a banister trying to jump some steps).
I was going to buy RPM arms all around but LHS didnt have black ones in stock (only had blue, and i didnt want blue).

- I also snapped one of the red aluminum push rods (DAMIT). So i put the factory pushrods. I'll get new pushrods later down the road.

[squeeforever]

If you go with the RPM arms, get the True-Trac setup for the rear and the RPM knuckles for the front. Makes a nice combo.

[TomTomTuning]

Originally Posted by squeeforever

If you go with the RPM arms, get the True-Trac setup for the rear and the RPM knuckles for the front. Makes a nice combo.

Sounds good..

What other mod's are recommended for the E-Revo.
How about the Tekno sway bar?

[brushlessboy16]

2s2p means that there are 2cell in parallel For increased MAH, then 2 of those sets are run in series.


Series= Higher Voltage
Parallel= Higher Mah and amps.




The "s" like 2s, 3s etc dictates voltage.

[TomTomTuning]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

2s2p means that there are 2cell in parallel For increased MAH, then 2 of those sets are run in series.


Series= Higher Voltage
Parallel= Higher Mah and amps.




The "s" like 2s, 3s etc dictates voltage.

Sweet, thanks for clearing that up.

The stock EVX-2 speed control on the E-Revo is set for Series.
So 2x 2s 5000mAh packs will become a 4s 5000mAh.

If i was brushless already then i would probably run Parallel.
And just get a higher voltage packs (4s +), so i have super mAh for awesome run time..

[squeeforever]

I could go on for a while on other hopups, but Mikes diffs, Tekno sway bars, Traxxas tubes (front turnbuckles and pushrods), one good servo, RPM arms and True-Trac, and the RPM knuckles in the front are a good place to start.

[TomTomTuning]

Originally Posted by squeeforever

I could go on for a while on other hopups, but Mikes diffs, Tekno sway bars, Traxxas tubes (front turnbuckles and pushrods), one good servo, RPM arms and True-Trac, and the RPM knuckles in the front are a good place to start.

Sweet,

I'll start with the Lipos, RPM arms and True-trac. Then maybe swaybars and wheel bar.

The car came with the Traxxas tubes, but i snapped one when i broke the upper A-Arm....

I was looking to ordering another set of TRX rods and i notice they had a P1/P2 then a P3. Whats the P3? (longer?)


So far ive just been running it in the grassy area by my work, i need to find a better place to really bring out the beast in this thing.

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by TomTomTuning

Sweet,

I'll start with the Lipos, RPM arms and True-trac. And go from there. Maybe the swaybars after that.

The car came with the Traxxas tubes, but i snapped one when i broke the upper A-Arm....

I was looking to ordering another set of TRX rods and i notice they had a P1/P2 then a P3. Whats the P3? (longer?)


So far ive just been running it in the grassy area by my work, i need to find a better place to really bring out the beast in this thing.

P3 is just a different rocker. I, along with 99% of Revo owners run the P2 rockers. They use the LT/P1 pushrod, but require the little red spacers that are included.

[TomTomTuning]

Originally Posted by squeeforever

P3 is just a different rocker. I, along with 99% of Revo owners run the P2 rockers. They use the LT/P1 pushrod, but require the little red spacers that are included.

I was about to ask more about the LT, P1, P2 and P3 rockers... haha
But i found this site. (explains alot of the suspensions components)
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...suspension+faq

I didn't see anything about the red spacers.
-1- Is that to extend the pushrod and make the clearance a little higher?
-2- Do you have your pushrod in the middle, inner or outer hole on the A-Arm?

I might try putting the LT stiffer springs (Silver/blue) on the p2 rockers..
I hate when the car dips so much it smacks the floor.

I guess the red Aluminum pushrods i have 5318X only work with LT and P1 rockers...
So i'll be taking them all off when i put the P2 Rockers on.


PS: Appreciate all the help. This is my first off-road/truck. Ive always had AWD Sedans.. haha

[TomTomTuning]

Alright..

Switched to the P2 Rockers, stock pushrods and i left the stiffer springs in it.
I notice i dont have the red spacers but i do have blue ones.

-1- Are there different pushroad spacers?

I will test the stiffer springs out but if i don't like it then I'll try the weaker ones.
I'll play with the preload and see what works best as well.

I still have the maximum steering block.
-2- Do you run the max or stock one?

PS: Any questions are not directed to one person, so anyone can respond.

[squeeforever]

The only difference with the blue and red are the red ones come with the rockers when you buy them, and the blue ones come on the truck. Their simply to lengthen the pushrod to the correct length for the P2 rockers. All the rockers have a different geometry, and the P2 is the best in most all cases. Use the spacers, with the P1/P2/LT rockers when using the P2 rockers only. The P3 has its own pushrod.

The LT springs (silver/blue and a couple others) are the 120mm springs (LT rockers are 120mm and P1/2 are 90mm) The coils are alot larger obviously, thus stiffer and usually aren't necessary unless you have a fatass truck like mine was with 6S 8000mah packs. :P Oh, and I usually use the outer most hole for a lower stance without having to use less preload, less droop, etc.

As for the steering block, use the max one, I clearenced my stock one before those came out, but I'll probably be ordering it next time I make a large order.

[TomTomTuning]

Yea, i have a feeling that the LT springs (silver/blue) might be a little to stiff, we will find out.

I guess it's trial and error haha.