Originally posted by RC-Monster Mike I stopped running 40 series when I ran into the "wobble" problem!
Hmm, I wanted to ask you about this. Some 40 I have seem to be wobblers right out of the bag.
I always thought they are damaged from crashs, but now I believe some are just bad when they are new.
I want some proper alu 40's one day.
RC/DC - Brushless Conversions since 2000 !
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Well, the chrome velo 6 seem to be made of a harder plastic (vs. the dish rims), so they probably won't wobble out of the bag, but the yellow dish wheels I have make my truck look like it is limping down the track! I like the smaller tires for racing anyways!
Aluminum 40 series wheels look sweet, but for racing, I will stick to plastic myself.
Well, I thought it's the stub axles, then I suspected the hexes, and I think I can rule out everything now. I made a lil device to true my wheels, and I have 2 Velo6 Chromes that wobble like crazy. They have no visible damage.
RC/DC - Brushless Conversions since 2000 !
>>>>>>>>> www.rc-dc.ch <<<<<<<<<<
Only two out of 12 are bad. But if I spin them on my "true-er" none of them is really perfect. But like I said, only on two would you actually see it when the truck runs.
And yes, I clean out the hex-hole and tighten them proberly. My observations were reproducable.
RC/DC - Brushless Conversions since 2000 !
>>>>>>>>> www.rc-dc.ch <<<<<<<<<<
I hear the proline mamba rim is the strongest plastic 40 series non 23mm rim. I've also heard that the sport maxx rim is pretty tough for the standerd size rim. Those cfim fighters should be the ticket just about every where.
I doubt that you would strip out hexxes just have your tire nuts tight and locktited. It took a 10L and 16 cells to strip out standard 40 series bow ties i dont think that a .18 could do that even if it was eb moded. Stock maxx rims are just about the strongest rims out there IMO.