1:10 or 1:12 scale project wanted...

Originally Posted by riceman

I'm running 1000-1000-500 in mine. I used Jammin Jay's set up for a starting point. I really haven't strayed much other than now having truck tires on it and being brushless. :005:

Thanks for the tip, I put 5k in the cd and ran it a little and it still wheelies but much less than before.

Also Brian, I put the Basic XL3100 back in with a 15tooth pinion and it seems a little more drivable at lower speeds than the 10L. It doesn't heat up as much either(still need to do further testing though).

One more thing, while running 3s in my .5 I get glitching. When the .5 is about 100 feet from me it nails on the brakes for a split second. It does this in different cars with different motors, just not on 2s. Would this be a BEC problem? It happened to me while I was at about top speed and it made the .5 do an endo(front flip) and cartwheel for about 100 feet, breaking a rear a-arm in the process. I got new ones coming from nitrohouse.com. Little things like this really get me all:019: :mad:1 :007: ya know?

Sorry for the rant!
Bye:027:

sounds like the 10l is the way to go?

id just always run 6 or 7 cells, for now just 6 tho, 6 matched and zapped ib 4200's wce, i run them in my cyclone, and i cant afford anything else lol

i want to use my mm 5700 tho, will it run cool? well under 150 160? after like 15 20 mins?

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by cemetery gates

Thanks for the tip, I put 5k in the cd and ran it a little and it still wheelies but much less than before.

Also Brian, I put the Basic XL3100 back in with a 15tooth pinion and it seems a little more drivable at lower speeds than the 10L. It doesn't heat up as much either(still need to do further testing though).

One more thing, while running 3s in my .5 I get glitching. When the .5 is about 100 feet from me it nails on the brakes for a split second. It does this in different cars with different motors, just not on 2s. Would this be a BEC problem? It happened to me while I was at about top speed and it made the .5 do an endo(front flip) and cartwheel for about 100 feet, breaking a rear a-arm in the process. I got new ones coming from nitrohouse.com. Little things like this really get me all:019: :mad:1 :007: ya know?

Sorry for the rant!
Bye:027:

I spoke with Mike several days ago and I think I'l go with a 1930/7 motor. The larger size and better quality will really help I think. When I get ready to order, I'll see what the price difference is between the 1930 and a basic XL.

Whenever I see any problem like this that appears only with higher voltage, I would immediately suspect the built-in BEC. It might simply be heating up due to the higher voltage of 3s and whatever servo load you have. You can try a receiver pack to see if it still happens. If it stops, you can then pick up a small UBEC. The dimension engineering ParkBEC would be ideal for this application and is very small.

Brian, I would definitely go with the 1930, not the BasicXL. Mine feels a little sluggish compared to the 10L.

Also I called CC about the problem with my MM esc. We narrowed it down to be the battery. First I changed the RX and channel, didn't work. Then I put in a receiver pack, it didn't work. After I changed the esc to another MM, IT STILL DIDN'T WORK!!!! I finally changed the TX, and nothing, it still glitches. I tried different motors and different cars too, didn't help. It does not glitch on 2s, only on 3s. So, it must be the battery! CC thinks that there is a short in the pack or something like that. I don't know it's weird. I think I will have to try another 3s pack. Can anyone think of why this is happening?

Thanks

Bye:018:

[BrianG]

Yeah, I probably will end up with the 1930, although I'll need a pretty low wind for 2s...

When you say glitching, do you mean the servo, or how the truck moves? I assumed you meant the servo acts erratically.

Originally Posted by BrianG

Yeah, I probably will end up with the 1930, although I'll need a pretty low wind for 2s...

When you say glitching, do you mean the servo, or how the truck moves? I assumed you meant the servo acts erratically.

When I said glitching what was happening is that it would slam full brakes at one time or another. This makes driving very difficult and hard on the drivetrain. For example, I would be cursing along when it would suddenly slam the brakes for a split second, this would happen at half throttle or full throttle, not really at low throttle though. I do not think I am tripping the LVC either. Castle says if there is a short in the battery I could be intermittently resetting the esc. I don't know what to do, except that the next battery I am getting for this will be a flightpower.

Bye:018:

[BrianG]

That is odd. Do you have a failsafe (or Spektrum) that is set to brake when the radio loses signal? But then again, the receiver pack should have cured that. I didn't think the MM went full brake when it "rebooted".

Nope, no failsafe. I mean two different cars, two different servos, three different motors, two different esc's, two different radios(both FM), and two different receivers and the problem persists with the 3s not the 2s. So, the only thing it could be is the battery.

Bye:018:

[glassdoctor]

That brake slam thing does happen to me also once in a while and I have heard others say the same thing. But I'm running a Neu.... I don't recall it happening with a Castle motor. But I have seen similar but more subtle glitches with a stock MM combo in a 1/10 buggy.

[jnev]

That is very strange because the same is happening to me. I have only ran one battery pack through the buggy, and when I get going fairly fast, and then let it coast. The brakes somehow just lock up or the gears or something. I thought it was because I didn't have enough oil in the center diff (which I didn't) but now the center diff is rebuilt and I am waiting for my Spektrum radio system and charger to see if it will still do it.

[Serum]

What batteries are you using Cemetery?

An eagletree would help as well, you can also try the 3S pack with the lipo cutoff disabled.

Originally Posted by Serum

What batteries are you using Cemetery?

An eagletree would help as well, you can also try the 3S pack with the lipo cutoff disabled.

Serum, I'm using maxamps 4000 3s 20c packs. There is an eagletree graph of these cells on page 26 provided by me. Also, I do not think I am tripping the LVC because it would happen if I am barely on the throttle...

Bye:018:

[Patrick]

***RC***, I don't think having any oil in the centre diff should cause it to lock up while coasting like you said, since if your coasting then the front and back wheels should be spinning the same speed as each other and the gears in the diff should only be spinning when the two outputs (shaft to front diff, and shaft to rear diff) are spinning at different speeds. If the gears inside the centre diff lock up it would just be like having a spool or a solid shaft (front and back diffs will get the same power), but it won't stop the car from rolling.

[BrianG]

Is it possible that the ESC is simply misfiring the wrong coil once in a while?

Alright guys, I think I'm going to attribute this problem to radio interference. Even though I have tried two different radios and 3 different channels. Also, the glitching now happens on 2s, 3s, and 4s, so it has to be interference. I also did a test without brakes and it would not slam the brakes but would go into neutral instead.

All these tests were done in front of my house, so last night I went to a parking lot about a mile away from my house. I was there for about 20min and it only glitched about 4 times. I still don't know why it is doing this, I think I need a 2.4GHz radio...

Also, this problem suddenly came about almost a month ago, it never happened before. In my area I used to get interference on AM radios, but never FM until now. I cant figure this out.

[BrianG]
Is it possible that the ESC is simply misfiring the wrong coil once in a while?

Why would two esc's do this that have never done this before?
Bye:018: