Tekno support.. this is a funny thread since when they call you don't actually get Ne

[stum]

I have now had two issues with tekno products (Brand new) and was basically told OHH WELL on the phone by Tekno-rc. I just started buying some of my other rc needs from them too other than their own branded stuff like the TWO v3 conversion kits I purchased for my 8ight-b and 8ight-t. (lipo’s , MMM, spare parts etc etc) No longer.. unless I have no choice.

I will start with my most recent issue.. a electri-clutch with REALLY bad tolerances... take a look at this picture below.. a gap of several MM between the clutch bell and the end screw. I called tekno with this issue on a BRAND NEW ITEM and they tried to make me BUY MORE PARTS to fix A COMPLETE KIT I Just spent 160 or so on.. WHAT A JOKE!! They didn't offer to send me a replacement; they didn't offer to send me some washers or something to fix their OWN KIT! This has to be the worst customer service I have gotten from any RC company.. EVER, most go out of their way to make good on their products.

The other instance.. I purchased a brand new v3 8ight buggy kit as mentioned and 1/2 the screw holes were not machined properly on the bottom of the 8ight chassis.. the screws all stick out and get damaged and wear and catch on the track constantly.. Well the day I was putting it together I noticed this and called and the guy on the phone laughed!! and said ya we had a bad batch, sorry... it won't affect performance.. and that was the end of the conversation!

What gives.. how can any company pull the crap and stay in business??


I know I'm upset right now, but I have every right to be and I guess with this post I'm just looking for others opinions on this treatment.

Ohh ya the Money shot



Thanks!!!

[lincpimp]

That sucks, I had an electri clutch adapter that was bent, or not machined correctly. I sent it back to them and they sent me it back, with a replacement. Not the best service, but good enough. I would send them an email, and next time you call, ask for someone higher up. Mention your purchases, and your displeasure...

[teknorc]

Originally Posted by stum

I have now had two issues with tekno products (Brand new) and was basically told OHH WELL on the phone by Tekno-rc. I just started buying some of my other rc needs from them too other than their own branded stuff like the TWO v3 conversion kits I purchased for my 8ight-b and 8ight-t. (lipo’s , MMM, spare parts etc etc) No longer.. unless I have no choice.

I will start with my most recent issue.. a electri-clutch with REALLY bad tolerances... take a look at this picture below.. a gap of several MM between the clutch bell and the end screw. I called tekno with this issue on a BRAND NEW ITEM and they tried to make me BUY MORE PARTS to fix A COMPLETE KIT I Just spent 160 or so on.. WHAT A JOKE!! They didn't offer to send me a replacement; they didn't offer to send me some washers or something to fix their OWN KIT! This has to be the worst customer service I have gotten from any RC company.. EVER, most go out of their way to make good on their products.

The other instance.. I purchased a brand new v3 8ight buggy kit as mentioned and 1/2 the screw holes were not machined properly on the bottom of the 8ight chassis.. the screws all stick out and get damaged and wear and catch on the track constantly.. Well the day I was putting it together I noticed this and called and the guy on the phone laughed!! and said ya we had a bad batch, sorry... it won't affect performance.. and that was the end of the conversation!

What gives.. how can any company pull the crap and stay in business??


I know I'm upset right now, but I have every right to be and I guess with this post I'm just looking for others opinions on this treatment.

Ohh ya the Money shot



Thanks!!!

Hello,

I think I spoke with you today on the phone. All I said was that you may need a shim kit to adjust/take up the slack on the Elektri-Clutch. I didn't know that this would be so offensive. It is very normal to adjust clutch bells back or forth with the use of shims. I mentioned the part # for the shim kit (for this specific purpose) and you basically hung up on me after that. Please let us know what outcome you were looking for today. Were we wrong to suggest the shim kit to solve your problem?

As for the countersinking, it was a manufacturing mistake that we acknowledge, and as stated, it will not affect performance or strength in any way. We would have liked to have this be a better fit as well. I don't recall laughing at you about the issue when you called however. We try very hard to be as helpful and understanding as possible and we didn't earn a stellar customer service reputation by laughing at or belittling our customers.

We meant no offense or disrespect in any way, hopefully you'll reconsider. Thanks.

Daniel Lewis

[VintageMA]

I'm in the mood to chime in here tonight as I've spent upwards of two hours dealing with Comcast tech support today and getting almost no where. So I understand frustration.

If you make a product that is not up to the tolerances and mechanical design it should be you don't just acknowledge it and say it won't affect performance.

If the user is saying that his screws don't flush mount when they should and are getting chewed up at the track - then that is a serious problem.

You fix the problem and tell the user that you will replace the unit with one that has been manufactured to the right tolerances free of charge.

I fully realize that RC is a destructive hobby and we can't expect things to last long the way they are abused, but if there is something wrong with the product at shipping the replacement is on your dime.

If I spent $100 on a drill that wasn't centered and had a wobbly shaft out of alignment I would return it and expect either a working replacement or my money back, not someone telling me that it will still make a hole in something even if it isn't quite perfectly round. Look at how much $$$ CC has lost on the MMM yet they are still working to make it right. In the growing market for BL conversions I don't think you can afford to be this lax about manufacturing problems - there at least 3 other viable options out there your customer will seek out.

End of vent.

[stum]

Originally Posted by teknorc

Hello,

I think I spoke with you today on the phone. All I said was that you may need a shim kit to adjust/take up the slack on the Elektri-Clutch. I didn't know that this would be so offensive. It is very normal to adjust clutch bells back or forth with the use of shims. I mentioned the part # for the shim kit (for this specific purpose) and you basically hung up on me after that. Please let us know what outcome you were looking for today. Were we wrong to suggest the shim kit to solve your problem?

As for the countersinking, it was a manufacturing mistake that we acknowledge, and as stated, it will not affect performance or strength in any way. We would have liked to have this be a better fit as well. I don't recall laughing at you about the issue when you called however. We try very hard to be as helpful and understanding as possible and we didn't earn a stellar customer service reputation by laughing at or belittling our customers.

We meant no offense or disrespect in any way, hopefully you'll reconsider. Thanks.

Daniel Lewis

Daniel,

Here is a chance to see the defective product first hand to see just how bad it is, which I know you were not able to on the phone. Look at that gap, it would take two shim kits to cob that up to fit but then... notice the small recessed space on the shaft, with the pile of shims going into this space they will at high velocities wiggle around and throw off the center and wear considerably on my Neu's bearings. This is not acceptable by any stretch of the imagination nor can it be fixed with some shims as you suggest. If you want to make good on this and keep a paying customer happy simply replace this brand new defective part with a part that is in spec so I don’t ruin a 260.00 brushless motor. I really don't feel like this is too much to ask, it was a "kit" that was suppose to be everything I needed and complete.

[teknorc]

Originally Posted by stum

Daniel,

Here is a chance to see the defective product first hand to see just how bad it is, which I know you were not able to on the phone. Look at that gap, it would take two shim kits to cob that up to fit but then... notice the small recessed space on the shaft, with the pile of shims going into this space they will at high velocities wiggle around and throw off the center and wear considerably on my Neu's bearings. This is not acceptable by any stretch of the imagination nor can it be fixed with some shims as you suggest. If you want to make good on this and keep a paying customer happy simply replace this brand new defective part with a part that is in spec so I don’t ruin a 260.00 brushless motor. I really don't feel like this is too much to ask, it was a "kit" that was suppose to be everything I needed and complete.

No problem. Give us a call tomorrow with your address and we'll set you up (after 10am PST). Thanks.

[George16]

The narrower diameter is for use with an e-clip just like the stock nitro setup. However, you can also a screw at the end of the shaft with 1/8 scale clutch bells (just like in the picture you posted) because 1/8 cb are wider than the stock revo cb. I have my revo (3.3 engine) setup with an e-clip while my tmaxx (OS .18TZ engine) uses a screw at the end of the shaft to accommodate the wider kyosho cb (or other 1/8 cb for that matter) I'm using.

[lincpimp]

This is true, when I set my clutch up (that george16 is getting) I used a clip to hold it on... It only took one shim behind the clutch bell to give correct clearance b/t the flywheel and the bell. Might save you some time to use the clip, worked fine for me and never fell off.

[George16]

Just use a 5x8x.5mm shim with a 5mm e-clip and you'll be fine. By the way, that is how all the tmaxx and revo clutches are setup from the factory.

Tekno basically just copied the stock nitro setup and adapted it for electric flatform. They didn't do anything wrong. You'll be surprised to see the replacement looking exactly the same with the ine you currently have.

[stum]

I want to thank daniel for taking care of me first off..

For the rest of you guys, I would also like to thank for the alt methods of mounting that you listed. I think that Tekno is moding the future parts so that this issue is corrected. If tekno wanted to as some of you pointed out, I think just including a spacer and e-clip would be a great alternative to having a different part. Again while this works as well as me using my dremel wheel and just modding it, the entire point was it was a brand new part that should have been packed to work from the get go; not everyone has spare parts or a dremel tool or the skills to mod "ready built" kits.

Thanks again to everyone.

[BrianG]

Glad it ended well. Sometimes it pays to keep a level head and give everyone the benefit of the doubt. Clearly, there was just a miscommunication.

[E-Revonut]

Customer Service will make or break a company! Glad they are going to help you out. I had a problem with my computer at the begining of the summer, took HP 3 tries to fix my computer, I will never buy another HP! Had they sent me a refurb on the first attemt, I would swear by there product. At the same time that was going on my MMM died on me. I sent it in, got a letter in the mail from them ( I had explained my computer issue to them), and as promised I received a new v2 that is still running and I'm very pleased with. That is CS! I will never recomend an HP product to anyone, on the other hand I swear by CC and think everyone looking for a BL esc should buy from CC.

[Ryu James]

"This is Ryan in Utah....." Danny (Daniel) from Tekno hears that line at least 3x a week from me as I call him with questions all the time. I have never dealt with someone so helpful and willing to spend time to answer my questions as him. IMO Tekno RC is stellar and Danny is too! I have the same V3 kit for my 8 and when i was assembling i noticed the same thing with the clutch. You know what i did? I threw on 1 washer. there was still a little space so i threw on a 2nd washer and BAM! Perfect. Never had a problem with it. Actually there were a couple of things in the kit that werent quite perfect where i had to do a little modifying but i didnt mind cuz i still knew i had the best kit on the market and half the fun of RC to me is getting creative when i build my cars. And may i make a little recommendation? Use the long shank pinion. I have started using that and it performs way better IMO than the clutch. I may be alone in this thought but it does just fine racing. I can use the trigger on my controller and exponential settings if needed to run that setup sweet. The pinion is quiter, smoother, more responsive, and less hassle. So give that a shot. But you will need to order a long shank pinion AND the long shank pinion motor mounts. Good luck Stum!

[stum]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

And may i make a little recommendation? Use the long shank pinion. I have started using that and it performs way better IMO than the clutch. I may be alone in this thought but it does just fine racing. I can use the trigger on my controller and exponential settings if needed to run that setup sweet. The pinion is quiter, smoother, more responsive, and less hassle. So give that a shot. But you will need to order a long shank pinion AND the long shank pinion motor mounts. Good luck Stum!

I used my dremel on the end to trim it for a PERFECT fit.. the hole point was it should be RTR or state that you need to do work. If I buy things that will need tweaking I expect it and have no issues. The clutch really tames the brushless torque in tight turns and stop and go.. w/o hurting top speed. This is really a must when racing iMO. I have tried both before (not w/ this exact kit) but I know how it feels. You are right about the direct drive w/ pinions though.. it is quite a bit more quiet.

man a 1.5d on a buggy.. THAT is a SUPER fast motor, too fast on 4s iMO. I bet dropping to a 1y, 2d or similar 1512 motor you get better lap times.. that motor can't be geared right iMO, unless you have some of those football field size tracks around you :) I use a Medusa v2 2000kv 60mm motor and no nitro can touch me.. in my v3 8ight buggy; temps around 140 after hours of play. (nice motor for $100.00 can't go wrong) I ran a 1.5d in my erevo all summer and at the end of the summer ended up throwing a bearing and ordering in a new one from neu and they sent a 2.5d by mistake and I kept it and for the last race turned in my fastest lap times all summer.. slower is faster sometimes ;) Anyway.. I plan on dumping the 1.5d in my tekno v3 truggy kit here soon, but I'm sure it will be too fast.. I wish there was a 12t clutchbell.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by stum

I used my dremel on the end to trim it for a PERFECT fit.. the hole point was it should be RTR or state that you need to do work. If I buy things that will need tweaking I expect it and have no issues. The clutch really tames the brushless torque in tight turns and stop and go.. w/o hurting top speed. This is really a must when racing iMO. I have tried both before (not w/ this exact kit) but I know how it feels. You are right about the direct drive w/ pinions though.. it is quite a bit more quiet.

man a 1.5d on a buggy.. THAT is a SUPER fast motor, too fast on 4s iMO. I bet dropping to a 1y, 2d or similar 1512 motor you get better lap times.. that motor can't be geared right iMO, unless you have some of those football field size tracks around you :) I use a Medusa v2 2000kv 60mm motor and no nitro can touch me.. in my v3 8ight buggy; temps around 140 after hours of play. (nice motor for $100.00 can't go wrong) I ran a 1.5d in my erevo all summer and at the end of the summer ended up throwing a bearing and ordering in a new one from neu and they sent a 2.5d by mistake and I kept it and for the last race turned in my fastest lap times all summer.. slower is faster sometimes ;) Anyway.. I plan on dumping the 1.5d in my tekno v3 truggy kit here soon, but I'm sure it will be too fast.. I wish there was a 12t clutchbell.

yeah, i hear your point about the kit stuff.

as far as my 1.5d i love it. a lot of people say that it is probably too fast for racing but i think it works out great. i can almost hit top speed on the straights at my local tracks. besides, i like speed. maybe if i get more serious about racing i will change things up a bit. i will tell you this though. my 1512 1.5D as a lot faster than my 1515 1.5D. i have used both in my buggy but now the 1512 is going in my new losi 8T. i will post some pics of the build as i build it.

i just went to a different local track today than the usual one i go to. it is indoor and very nice but a bit smaller. about 110 guys there to race today and no one drives 1/8 scale. it is electric only but everyone was driving 1/10. so before racing started i had a couple of hours to practice. i was surprised at those little 1/10 buggies. they were flying around the track and look so light weight as they fly in the air. they were faster than my car. mostly because they had better stopping power so they could hit the gas longer. the tires i had were not right for the track despite my brakes working stellar. however, my 1/8 was like the "bully" of the track. i would clobber the other cars as i came up on them. not on purpose, but if i hit them they were toast. my 9 lb buggy vs. their 2 lb buggy. it was a lot of fun.