team associated tc3

[captain harlock]

The 14 cells I got from you Mike will be all used in my Tamiya TB EVO IV MS with the 1930/5. I just sold my T4 to help me cover the costs of my future maxx. My Evo will surely need alot of modifications to tolerate the 1930.

[nbcaznmaster]

i just foudna nice deal on a tc3! i think ima buy it :).

Hey, I am currently doing a BL TC3 Project as well. I am running Mtroniks Pro Controller, 2 3100N mah Lipoly packs, and a Feigao 380C 13t motor, I have the project under the Electric forum on this site if you wana check out the progress

[Sylvester]

Nbcaz how much? Any mods on it? :)

[captain harlock]

If I had a TC3 I would have definately modify it using Hardcore racing hybrid chassis, shaft cups, shafts, shock towers, etc....they're no longer in production, though.

[Re~Mix]

If you want to strengthen the diff, run aluminum cases, ti outdrives, nice cvd's and maybe even find some stronger gears.

[Rtsbasic]

With a TC3 you can modify them as much as you want. But you don't need to. As long as you have hardened steel outdrives (most people run them at least in the back, they cost about $8 or so a pair so not exactly expensive), the alloy 4WD shaft & alloy cvds (standard on team/factory team ones) your pretty much set. Once my car had these I never actually broken or damaged anything due to brushless. And the diffs are still silky smooth.

I used to run a Basic 5300 in my TC3, but switched to a 380 9s. This was on 6/7 cell NIMH packs, and the occational 4 cell race (4 cell on a 380 9s is similar to a 27t brushed on 6 cells so this allowed me to race in that class). I've always used Mtroniks controllers.

hello i am french i have tc3 bl
i have try electronic model motor jupiter car 12s, jupiter car 10s, kontronic 5500, feigao 6s and electronic model cyclon car 5000, for me, the best is my jupiter car 12s with perf same 1/10therm, i run over 10mn with ib 3800

[Nabors]

Originally posted by Rtsbasic
With a TC3 you can modify them as much as you want. But you don't need to. As long as you have hardened steel outdrives (most people run them at least in the back, they cost about $8 or so a pair so not exactly expensive), the alloy 4WD shaft & alloy cvds (standard on team/factory team ones) your pretty much set. Once my car had these I never actually broken or damaged anything due to brushless. And the diffs are still silky smooth.

High speed like 50+mph can make the center shaft start to wobble and possibly snap if your tc3 has the old carbon shaft. My old one never snapped but it was wobbling so much that it has marks on it from the mounting ears on the servo. The AL shafts don’t have this problem afaik

[Rtsbasic]

Thats why I recommended the alloy one. I've actually damaged an alloy one before but I'm not sure if it was accident damage or due to the motor (380 9s on 12 cells, was doing some speed runs). You can also run with plastic diff outdrives, but even on 6 cells I ate these fairly quick.

dunky, nice car. Are those the GPM CF shock towers?

[Nabors]

:o I see where you said that now I read right past that I guess.

[Rtsbasic]

No worries, I guess I could have worded it a bit better :)