RC-Monster Forums  

Go Back   RC-Monster Forums > Support Forums > Brushless

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
What to do? What to do?
Old
  (#1)
pinkpanda3310
RC-Monster Titanium
 
pinkpanda3310's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,152
Join Date: Sep 2008
What to do? What to do? - 02.15.2010, 10:16 PM

Have you ever decided on something ordered parts and then changed your mind? My indecisiveness has brought me to this point. What's your opinion on the following chassis layouts.

Idea #1



This one is pretty straight foward. Batteries one side, motor the other. Cog is just slightly to the battery side and I can keep the 6s as one whole pack giving the option of 5s capability. I will need a custom shaft for this. Motor faces foward too.

#2



This has symetry, I like symetry but it means I have to split my 6s down to 3s. Making a chassis/bracing around this will be easy and it all fits neatly in the existing footprint. I will need a custom shaft for this too.

#3



This one I guess is a standard truggy setup. Batteries next to the diff, pushing the motor further out and balancing the chassis better. I can make this work with available shafts. Downside is the motor faces backwards and it will be the hardest to make chassis/bracing around it. This one will be easiest to fit the steering servo.

What do you think? What would your decision be? Or suggestions?
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#2)
BrianG
RC-Monster Admin
 
BrianG's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
02.15.2010, 10:31 PM

I would opt for either 1 or 3. The battery may be a tad heavier than the motor, but it really has very little impact as long as they are fairly close in weight. Option 1 gives you the room to install the battery a little closer to the centerline for even closer weight distribution, just not sure if having the weight so far forward might affect jumping.
  Send a message via Yahoo to BrianG Send a message via MSN to BrianG  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#3)
JThiessen
RC-Monster Brushless
 
JThiessen's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 2,436
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edmonds WA
02.15.2010, 11:17 PM

I also think #1 or #3 - but where are you putting the ESC?

BTW, what truck is that?


Losi 8T 1.0, Savage Flux - XL style, LST XXL, Muggy, 3.3 E-Revo Conversion and sitting outside 425hp, 831 Tq Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel. It SMOKES
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#4)
bigsteel
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
02.15.2010, 11:33 PM

i agree with the above 2, #1 or #3 .Jthiessen--i think its an LST2 or one of its variations.--josh
   
Reply With Quote
Personally
Old
  (#5)
JERRY2KONE
JERRY2KONE SUPERMAXX
 
JERRY2KONE's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,452
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: HAYMARKET VIRGINIA
Personally - 02.15.2010, 11:57 PM

Personally I like the second one. I am also a man of Symitry. I like to see things balanced and even as much as possible. Of course I am used to splitting the batts with the EMaxx setup anyway. Of course the real test will be in you trying each one out and seeing just how it handles for you and which one you like the best. Its nice that you have opitons to play with. You can always create a raised mount for the ESC and put it just about anywhere you like on any of the setups. Please share your results once you decide.


SUPERMAXX YOUR LIFE.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#6)
pinkpanda3310
RC-Monster Titanium
 
pinkpanda3310's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,152
Join Date: Sep 2008
02.16.2010, 04:01 AM

Yes it is an lst2 with a hot racing chassis. I would like to try them all Jerry and give you the results but at the rate i get things done results will be next year, lol. I am also pedantic about symetry but my soldering still needs practice so the less I have to do the better.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#7)
BrianG
RC-Monster Admin
 
BrianG's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
02.16.2010, 04:27 AM

I too like symmetry, which is why V1 of my Hyper8 used a twin pack setup with the motor up and in the middle. But, I found the added wiring to be a PITA, not to mention more things to go wrong. A single pack setup is simply cleaner and easier to maintain IMO.
  Send a message via Yahoo to BrianG Send a message via MSN to BrianG  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#8)
George16
Supermaxx
 
George16's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 2,031
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Earth
02.16.2010, 06:25 AM

I have two buggies setup differently, one with a single battery setup and another with dual battery setup. I like the single battery setup for its simplicity and ease of operation. Balance is negligible.


Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#9)
pinkpanda3310
RC-Monster Titanium
 
pinkpanda3310's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,152
Join Date: Sep 2008
02.16.2010, 07:26 AM

I have owned a 3905 and a truggy and never over analyzed the difference between the single and twin packs because i just accepted they were different cars. This is my first self-modified car, now I have a choice!

Symmetry is so good in the minds eye but the practicality of a single pack I think wins.

Thanks for the reply guys
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#10)
captain harlock
RC-Monster Captain
 
captain harlock's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 2,745
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Saudi Arabia
02.16.2010, 08:09 AM

I thought dual batts is the way to go, but I've absolutely found no difference when I used 6s on one side and a 1950/10 on the other side along with the other electrics.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	صورعلوى 110 041.jpg
Views:	561
Size:	66.6 KB
ID:	8532  


The name is Alawi. You can call me Al.
Nice to meet you!

Last edited by captain harlock; 02.16.2010 at 08:13 AM.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#11)
JThiessen
RC-Monster Brushless
 
JThiessen's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 2,436
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edmonds WA
02.16.2010, 10:37 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkpanda3310 View Post
Yes it is an lst2 with a hot racing chassis. I would like to try them all Jerry and give you the results but at the rate i get things done results will be next year, lol. I am also pedantic about symetry but my soldering still needs practice so the less I have to do the better.
I thought that was what it was, but I have never been able to find any aftermarket chassis. HR is out of the RC business now, so that explains that. What arms are on it ? They look like the adjustable Savage arms. Which bulks do you have too? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm "in the market" for aluminum parts for mine......


Losi 8T 1.0, Savage Flux - XL style, LST XXL, Muggy, 3.3 E-Revo Conversion and sitting outside 425hp, 831 Tq Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel. It SMOKES
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#12)
pinkpanda3310
RC-Monster Titanium
 
pinkpanda3310's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,152
Join Date: Sep 2008
02.16.2010, 11:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by JThiessen View Post
I thought that was what it was, but I have never been able to find any aftermarket chassis. HR is out of the RC business now, so that explains that. What arms are on it ? They look like the adjustable Savage arms. Which bulks do you have too? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm "in the market" for aluminum parts for mine......
I bought it as a roller with all the RD-logics already fitted (arms, axle carriers, shock towers). I got the chassis off ebay. Can't remember if it was this seller....http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Losi-LST-alum...item53df72bb5f

The steering turnbuckles I have no idea but I did get a dynomite steering assembly. There's not much left on it that is stock- shocks, bulks, diff cases and a few minor plastics (I may change the skids to cf). Oh, and the body
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#13)
pinkpanda3310
RC-Monster Titanium
 
pinkpanda3310's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,152
Join Date: Sep 2008
07.23.2010, 11:47 AM

I'm a little frustrated with progress on this, especially since I started asking questions back then. As much as I like making stuff I don't think I will do another conversion myself for some time.

So I thought I would show you what I have so far anyway. I started with some CF angle and glued stuck them together. This will form the chassis and battery tray in one.


As a result I have had to make more mods to make it all sweet (more of which to come).








Most of what is in those pics is just placed together with no screws (including where the chassis joins to the front assembly). I have shown a castle 1520 in there but I will be using a 1524 1y when I get it going. I will also fit a length of aluminium between the 2 sides as a kind of a backbone. Obviously the steering still needs to be sorted out, I have some parts on order and will need to make a top plate to mount the servo.

Final pics next year
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#14)
bigsteel
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
07.23.2010, 12:36 PM

Wow,very slick setup! Are you gonna run some kind skid in between the two sides to block up the middle? Or just leave the shafts out in the open?--Josh
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#15)
blueb8llz
RC-Monster Aluminum
 
Offline
Posts: 812
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: bay area california
07.23.2010, 03:10 PM

thats one heckava truck you got there. as what big steel says, i was also wondering if you were gonna have skids to cover up that open middle slot.
but having sum skids might cover up that sexy carbon fiber.
what i did what one of my carbon fiber chassis was to cut out a thin piece of clear plastic and screw it onto the chassis, so this way it protects the cf and you can still see the the cf.

ps. you should def. get a new body for this awesome rig.
   
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump







Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com