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  (#196)
Finnster
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11.11.2010, 05:09 PM

The only comment I would have would be in regards to the contruction of the chassis braces.

The "dogears" that you have attaching the bulkheads to the servo top plate, there are two holes for the bulkhead screws, but it looks like one hole to attach the servo top plate. If this is attached by a screw, seems like you are creating a pivot point which would play havok with the braces.
This may just an artifact of the drawing, but I could see how it would make the machining much easier.

Also, have you considering using a different servo saver rack? Perhaps you can use one from a truggy that points outward instead of inward. The servo could be turned outward or a laydown style, and free some space in the center so you don't have to have that arched chassis brace. Truggies usually have adj ackermann plates too, which is always nice.


The shed looks really nice. I wish I had more space like that for my stuff. Instead, my RC stuff has spread like a blob over increasing area of my basement workshop. I really need to sell some stuff!
   
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  (#197)
Finnster
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11.11.2010, 05:11 PM

BTW, what program are you using to CAD everything? Solidworks? Is there a simple freeware version that you know of to draw things out?

Looks great
   
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  (#198)
ZippyBasher
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11.11.2010, 07:47 PM

Racing R/C with special brownies! Great! Doesnt get much better...

This is a sweet build you got and nice workshop! That is sweet you have so many people to bash with...


Maxx - FLM, MMM, CD Med.36x706s
Raja - FLM Ext. MM, 1512, 4s
SC8ight - MMM, 1520, 6s
D8T - MMM 1717 6s

My OVERPOWERED Rides "CLICK"

Like Playing Cards? Cut-Throat Rummy "CLICK"
   
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  (#199)
Gdot
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11.11.2010, 09:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnster View Post
... Perhaps you can use one from a truggy that points outward instead of inward. The servo could be turned outward or a laydown style
you do know that you can just cog it around 180 deg, right.. you can use it outward using the same parts
   
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  (#200)
Jahay
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11.12.2010, 10:56 AM

caz - thanks a lot bud! But i am liking the idea of the top plate now... ill see how it goes...
Yep saw your maxx! Looks awesome!!! not a fan of maxxs but definitely impressed by yours!

Joe - your the first person to notice that... i dont know why i put it on there temporarily why i took the pic..
Yep next meet in december!!! getting the flux ready for it!!!

Finn - Thanks for pointing those things out... Firstly i am going to say, that i cannot take credit for the drawings... I wish i could use cad but its not my work... i am just helping a guy who wants to manufacture these for people...
Thanks for pointing out those important points regarding the dog ears and possible movement that may occur on the front steering assembly.... Ill look into it a little more... Maybe a top brace would eliminate any possible movement over the current single brace design...

I originally said that a better truggy steering assembly should be used... but considering this will be offered to savage users, it would be better to make it work with savage parts so less parts need to be purchased... It should be fine as is...

The servo was going to be positioned in a lay down style with a special mount for the esc to sit above it. It could be moved to the opposite side but it is for balance reasons...

Zippy - thanks a lot dude... nothing like special brownies ;)

dot - ill look into that... it looks as if it could work!!! Thanks for noticing!
   
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  (#201)
thzero
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11.12.2010, 11:32 AM

Personally I'd redesign the mount for attaching the front bulkhead. I'd eliminate the dogears and just make a single bar that goes across both of the steering supports and as part of that the mounts for the bulkhead. This way you could manufacture one bulkhead top piece. In the front you use the steering supports, in the rear you use two machined supports. That way you manfacture less custom pieces. With a top-plate that attaches to the front, center diff, and rear rear I think it'd be solid.

So you'd have a chassis plate, top-plate, two bulkhead mounts, center diff mount, and set of rear bulkhead supports to machine. There are probably any number of existing servo mounts that could be used.

I'd probably also suggest going with a more standard truggy diff mount and not the flux style motor mount. Otherwise you need several different versions for different diameter motors. With a standard truggy mount, you could include a cradle for the rear (see FLM's flux motor mount) that would get mounted on the chassis for support of the rear of the motor. Seems it would be easier, and cheaper, to include several for different common motor diameters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahay View Post
Thanks for pointing out those important points regarding the dog ears and possible movement that may occur on the front steering assembly.... Ill look into it a little more... Maybe a top brace would eliminate any possible movement over the current single brace design...

I originally said that a better truggy steering assembly should be used... but considering this will be offered to savage users, it would be better to make it work with savage parts so less parts need to be purchased... It should be fine as is...

The servo was going to be positioned in a lay down style with a special mount for the esc to sit above it. It could be moved to the opposite side but it is for balance reasons...

Zippy - thanks a lot dude... nothing like special brownies ;)

dot - ill look into that... it looks as if it could work!!! Thanks for noticing!
   
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  (#202)
Finnster
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11.12.2010, 12:06 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post
you do know that you can just cog it around 180 deg, right.. you can use it outward using the same parts
LOL, you're right. I was thinking back to an idea I had trying to turn the arm 90* instead of 180.

The point remains tho about the other issues
   
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  (#203)
Jahay
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11.20.2010, 05:00 AM

[align=center]Small update and some carnage!

I am just rebuilding my stock length savage at the moment... i thought i would wait till the MMMXL before i put the XXL Truck back together...

I found some Rear Diff destruction!!! when rebuilding the truck! I knew there was a problem with the rear diff, but had just thought the bevel and spider gears had stripped... CHECK THE PICS!!!![/align]

[align=center]Now i have done a lot of damage to the savage in the past... but i have no idea how i have managed this.... i think it happend after a standing backflip on concrete... i think the diffs were not perfectly shimmed as they were shimmed for alloy bulks, and i had just put them in the stock plastic bulks... Here is what happend!!![/align]
[align=center]








[/align]
So i am finishing the truck off now... And hopefully it will be done soon and ill get some pics up...
   
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  (#204)
Finnster
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11.20.2010, 09:51 AM

Thats a fubar if I ever saw one!
   
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  (#205)
Gdot
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11.20.2010, 11:02 AM

hot dang you killed it
   
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  (#206)
LiqrSicc
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11.20.2010, 11:35 AM

I could see that from your XXL Savvy but from the stock length? What are you doing out there?! lol


XXL 1717
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  (#207)
Jahay
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11.20.2010, 01:43 PM

I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT HAPPEND!!!! the diff was not shimmed correctly for the plastic bulk, but how it grenaded i have no idea!
   
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  (#208)
thzero
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11.20.2010, 02:06 PM

I really doubt it had anything to do with shimming. I suspect it was just a defect in the material; it happens.
   
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Old
  (#209)
Dj_Sparky
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01.27.2011, 06:20 PM

What motor do you have in it now?
   
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  (#210)
Jahay
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02.20.2011, 07:53 AM

im running a 1520 sparky

Some Updates & Images and progress

Centre diff/mech brakes and motor relocation

I had to put the centre diff and motor relocation on hold just for an extremely short while. I cannot use my existing TVPs as the 4mm alloy plates are causing problems while mounting.

I have chopped and drilled to many holes in my TVPs that they seem a little weaker.
I got two side plates made up which will go over the existing tvps...
They will be anodised in black so you should hardly notice them. And considering the lipo boxes cover them basically, they will not really be noticed.
Having these new plates, means i can now remount all my internals exactly how i want them and wont be limited to where i am available to mount them.




Next update
LST HUB MOD


I am working out and currently doing an LST 2 Hub conversion.

Everyone knows that the Savage Hubs are at very best OK. The two bearing setup is weak ....

The LST conversion offers the possibility of running 3-4 bearings per hub!
Offers increased width without the need for extenders.
The Use of CVDs (no more shafts popping out of axles)

In order to get the lst hubs to fit the savage arms, only minor sanding of the hubs were required luckily!
To get the CVDs to work with the diff... i am using vorza diff axles
some pictures of me mocking up the hubs...




Note where the hinge pin is in the pic below


The hinge pin needs to sit as close to the bulk as possible to allow correct distance for CVD to work
I measured this to 6.5mm wider than stock


Increased width over stock


And the bulk braces being made up.
2x 4mm thick 7075alloy and 2x 5mm thick 7075alloy
The lack of bulk support shouldnt weaken the system as the braces are now thicker and made from much tougher alloy.



Attempt at Bulletproofing my diffs more.
You can find the build for my BP Diffs here...
I basically used an entire HPI Vorza Diff but used the Savage BP Ring and Pinion.
Means you can use 2x 8x16x5mm bearings.
Stronger, thicker hardened internals.
Shorter axles to work with LST CVDs

Loads of comparison pics etc...

Page 1 of rebuild - http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...9&postcount=74
Page 2 of rebuild - http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...0&postcount=75
   
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