Picked up a Stampede 4x4!! - Page 6 - RC-Monster Forums

02.18.2011, 07:30 PM

So I received my Tekno's. I thought they would be beefier. Here they are in the middle, with a Stampede 2wd MIP, same size and a Savage SS dogbone.

Installed easy, and the outputs and axles do look strong. Along with the carriers.

I have to say the SCT combo has been pretty good on 2s. For the long term, My plan is the 3800 motor, with a different esc on 3s, but I'm kinda testing the limits of the Sidewinder, just to see. Plus my Gens 5000mah 40c 3s shows up Monday, and none of my other 3s fit, so 2s > 0s . I'm currently running ZombieMaxx 320s tires, which are smaller then stock, but have these coming, http://prolineracing.com/tires/trenc...n-truck-tires/ I started conservative, but am now running 17/54, and radared at 42mph. With temps around 60 ambient, and relatively aggresive driving, had temps at 135esc, and 125 motor, with no fan. I have to admit I was surprised. I thought the esc would be to hot at anything over 35ish.

Semi Pro · 02.18.2011, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asheck

So I received my Tekno's. I thought they would be beefier. Here they are in the middle, with a Stampede 2wd MIP, same size and a Savage SS dogbone.

Installed easy, and the outputs and axles do look strong. Along with the carriers.

I have to say the SCT combo has been pretty good on 2s. For the long term, My plan is the 3800 motor, with a different esc on 3s, but I'm kinda testing the limits of the Sidewinder, just to see. Plus my Gens 5000mah 40c 3s shows up Monday, and none of my other 3s fit, so 2s > 0s . I'm currently running ZombieMaxx 320s tires, which are smaller then stock, but have these coming, http://prolineracing.com/tires/trenc...n-truck-tires/ I started conservative, but am now running 17/54, and radared at 42mph. With temps around 60 ambient, and relatively aggresive driving, had temps at 135esc, and 125 motor, with no fan. I have to admit I was surprised. I thought the esc would be to hot at anything over 35ish.

i ran the tekno's all last summer with no problems on a 4x4 slash (i know lighter tire and less stress) they are more beefy that the cvds on my 8ight-t so i do think they are over kill on these little trucks

lincpimp · 02.18.2011, 08:44 PM

Well the lst cvds I am modding are the same size as the X dogbones. So the teknos should be fine, as long as the cups on the axles are up to the task and do not wear or shatter.

I know lst cvds are good, I have run those alot, in much heavier trucks with more power. Never broke one, or wore the axles out, they are very hard material. I have worn pins and eventually the cvd shaft, but that was cause the pin wore out and caused alot of slop. The cup looked like new, the holes for the pin did not wear. I was impressed.

lincpimp · 02.24.2011, 10:04 PM

Ok, my 4 flute 12mm endmill arrived today. I will try to make some progress tomorrow after work. I need to figure a way to hold the rear hub without distorting it, but make sure it stays parallel to the cutting face of the endmill. I have a few ideas.

J57ltr · 02.24.2011, 10:57 PM

What does the hub look like? I might have a vice I can loan you.

Jeff

lincpimp · 02.24.2011, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J57ltr

What does the hub look like? I might have a vice I can loan you.

Jeff

Well, it is rounded on the sides, and has a lower area that the hinge pin goes thru, and an upper L shaped arm that the upper link attaches to. I was thinking that I can make a block out of plastic/wood that holds the hub by the lower and upper portions, as they have flat parallel sides, and it would have a cutout in the center for the rounded portion to fit. Make any sense?

Heres a link to the part and a pic: http://www.rcdirectonline.com/produc...-TRA-1952.html

J57ltr · 02.24.2011, 11:32 PM

Yup, you could also melt wax into it to hold it firmly stick it in the fridge and then bore it out. Since it's plastic you won't have much problem boring it, but getting it perfectly centered is going to be a problem. I am assumung that you are going to do this on a drill press. I don't know what kind of measuring tools you have but I have yet to see a drill press that is square to the spindle, so make sure to compensate for that. The vice I have is in this thread.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...highlight=vice

I also have some Delrin I could give you so you can make a jig. I don't think I would have time to make one for you, I have to go to Baton Rouge on Monday. But I could either ups it to you or if you want to meet me half way I could bring it with me.

It looks like a regular Rustler hub I have some of those. If it is then I think I might be able to whoop one up for you.

Jeff

lincpimp · 02.24.2011, 11:48 PM

Yes, it will be on a drill press. You would laugh if you saw me setup stuff like this.

I have an small vice that bolts to the press table. I am thinking I can make a platform with a slot in it that will hold the upper portion of the hub, and them use some material on either side of the bottom area to clamp the hun in place. The platform will hold the hub perpendicular to the endmill, and the spacers will stop the hub rotating.

I like your wax idea, but I would have to do one side at a time, remove the wayx, and them reset the hub the other way around in the wax to do the other side.

I have a way to "precisely" center the hub so that I get the bearing centered, again you would laugh if I described it.

The delrin would be handy, I cannot leave work due to family issues and lack of staff, but would gladly pay the shipping.

J57ltr · 03:03 PM

Believe me if you saw half the ghetto stuff I have to do. I am in the middle of R&D on a new scale and I have 2 precision blocks welded to a 3/8" thick plate. I had our welder make it for me and he just tacked it in place. One was about .5* off and I had to cut and tack it back in place then weld it across to make it stronger but when I did, everything shifted on me (as SST does). So I had to use a precision hammer to beat it back into place, precisely. So no I wouldn't laugh.

Let me know I'll cut you some blocks of Delrin in the morning. I have some that is 2" thick and is flat top and bottom. I also have 1" thick and some other sizes.

Jeff

lincpimp · 02.25.2011, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J57ltr

Believe me if you saw half the ghetto stuff I have to do. I am in the middle of R&D on a new scale and I have 2 precision blocks welded to a 3/8" thick plate. I had our welder make it for me and he just tacked it in place. One was about .5* off and I had to cut and tack it back in place then weld it across to make it stronger but when I did, everything shifted on me (as SST does). So I had to use a precision hammer to beat it back into place, precisely. So no I wouldn't not laugh.

Let me know I'll cut you some blocks of Delrin in the morning. I have some that is 2" thick and is flat top and bottom. I also have 1" thick and some other sizes.

Jeff

2" would be good, as it would clear the vise I have and allow me to eyeball stuff (my precision instrument) a bit better.

And these hub carrier are actually the same as the nitro rustler/pede, a little different from the elctric 2wd rusty/pede models. 1952 is a very old traxxas number, looked funny when I 1st saw it!!

J57ltr · 02.25.2011, 12:12 PM

Can you use 1" Thick 2" tall? I looked this morning and all I can fine is a bunch of 1"

Jeff

thzero · 02.25.2011, 01:45 PM

Good thing you didnt' say 1" thick, 2" long... linc might have gotten confused. ;)

J57ltr · 02.25.2011, 01:53 PM

Yes I have seen Linc's posts that's why I worded it the way I did.

Let me know soon I have a guy on the mill right now so, I'll whoop up a couple of blocks later after he is finished. How wide is your vice?

Jeff

lincpimp · 02.25.2011, 02:02 PM

1x2 should work. I think the vice will go at least 2". What is the 3rd dimension?

lincpimp · 02.25.2011, 02:47 PM

OK, just got some parts in.

I have a pretty much off the shelf cvd option here. It does require bearings with a 6mm inner, so either go with a 6x11 as a drop in replacement, or enlarge the hub carrier to fit a 6x12.

Using these parts:

HPI 80853 70mm savvy center driveshaft (made by mip)
Mip 1488 tmaxx axle
Mip 1147 rebuild kit
stock hex drilled to 6mm inner or the tekno 12mm hex for 6mm axle?
stock tmaxx wheel drive pin trimmed slightly or a shorter pin?
revo diff outputs (drop in fit for the stampy diff, with 6mm outputs)
6mm bore drivecups, long length (will need some help identifying these)

So you end up with a seriously stong 1/8 scale size mip rear cvd setup, larger 6x12 bearings and 6mm outputs in the diff.

You are all welcome.

Pics to follow.